When the slave fails, you will need to replace both again regardless of how new the clutch accumulator was when it was replaced. At that point, you are way over the amount you would have paid to just replace both at the same time the FIRST time. Then, once you commit to replacing both, one will realize, that this could happen again, so why not upgrade to the GT2 mod, get a better result for a little more money? That's the general train of thought...where you get off on that train is the decision that needs to be made.

Then again, one can always test their luck!

 

But the GT2 slave mod is 1000 bucks for parts + much more labor...

Just replacing the accumulator is 140.00 + 1 hour of labor (another 150 bucks?).

I can replace my accumulator many times for the upgrade cost for the GT2 conversion no? I mean I get if it was a 300 vs. 600.00 but 300.00 vs. 1500-2000 bucks all in is quite a different price point to me. Unless i'm missing something?

 

The issue is not so much if the clutch accumulator goes bad. Yes, you are right - just changing a bad clutch accumulator is fairly reasonable.

The issue is that USUALLY - and I say that term because you might be lucky and not have this issue - a bad clutch accumulator is followed by a failed slave cylinder. So, if you spent the money on replacing the bad clutch accumulator, and now, your slave goes bad, you will have to replace BOTH even though you just replaced the previous accumulator. This is where the cost escalates because labor for the slave is a little more. Considering, the GT2 parts list is pretty much affordable (if you buy it yourself and not as a kit - it's a lot cheaper than $1,000 more like $500) and comparable to buying a slave and accumulator, and the labor may be slightly more (considering your indy is not familiar with replacing), then the price of the wasted first accumulator (plus labor) will have nearly made up for it and you get added benefits with the GT2 upgrade.

So, in summary:
1) Replace clutch accumulator = reasonable. Risks - slave may go bad soon after.
2) If Slave goes bad then you must replace slave + clutch accumulator.
3) If Slave lasts another 10-15K or beyond, then congratulations!
4) If not, then you get this equation. First Clutch accumulator + labor + Second Clutch Accumulator and Slave + labor (much more cost to replace slave).
5) On the other hand, GT2 kit + labor (labor costs close to labor costs for slave + accumulator). GT2 kit costs = 2 clutch accumulators and slave costs.
6) In the end 4 and 5 come out close to equal costs with the difference being that you may spread 4 over however long the slave lasts. This is your luck part. Plus, in the end, with 4, you are stuck with a clutch that feels vague and inferior to the GT2 upgrade with an accumulator that may need further replacing because it could fail AGAIN (the GT2 kit removes the clutch accumulator altogether).

So, the real costs kick in with the labor for the slave. Once your slave goes, you need to replace both and the labor for the slave is more than just replacing the accumulator. Also, if you do your own labor, then it's a no-brainer - go with the GT2 upgrade.

Sorry to be so complex but hopefully it makes sense. Here is a good read:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tructions.html

 

PS: If anyone decides to do the GT2 conversion, please research extensively, as it comes with it's own set of problems. So you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle.

Namely,
1) Building the right length hydraulic hose.
2) Building the right length slave rod.

 

bng4god,
You stated "your slave goes bad, you will have to replace BOTH even though you just replaced the previous accumulator".
If the accumulator is nearly new, why would you replace it?

Has anyone ever cut open one of the failed accumulators? I assume it's just an air bladder inside of the metal can. The only failure mode I can thing of is that the bladder ruptures from age.

BTW, the replacement accumulator that I got a couple years ago had a 997 part number on it. Hopefully they made improvements to the material so that it is not so prone to failure.

 

I did and in fact I discover the joint , where both half of the ball are welded together, is also where the bladder is position and this part simply became torn and, of course, the accumulator lost his air into the system....The rubber is very thick and strong but may be due to Pentosyn, finally became weak. May be the 997 upgrade got a better rubber bladder

Also disagree with previous statement mentioning "if one goes bad the other will"????? One part cost $107.00 and the other $475.00. If the slave is working properly without fluid migration from steering reservoir to the clutch reservoir why replacing it???? Some people are rich and I am not. You can live with a bad accumulator for months and maybe some off us never realized it was at fault...., you can live with a bad slave having fluid migration for months if you transfer manually the fluid from one reservoir to the other. I did it !!!! I also replaced the slave once and the bladder twice in four years.....

 

looks like a toilet bowl float to me.

http://rennsportkc.com/996997tt-clutch-accumulator/

i think pentosin and rubber are an intrinsically lousy combination, but i know nothing ( technically speaking ) about them. i just know pentosin is nasty stuff. the whole notion of replacing both is now considered "conventional wisdom" for very valid reasons, so changing them both at the same time as a recommendation is optimal, but in the real world, doesn't mean we all do it. just a prescribed course. 96t owner's have been dealing with this issue for over ten years, so it's no longer a mystery these parts are given to "premature" failure, as you know. i don't think(?) he meant you HAD to replace the slightly used accumulator when replacing the slave. if anything, i think it's usually the reverse that is true. i.e. the slave has more stress on it if the accumulator is bad, helping to increase the chances of early failure, not so much, the other way around.

as to the gt2 mod, i've often considered it, but i actually appreciate the "feel" of the stock clutch ( when it works properly ) but that is about half the time. the other half are varying degrees of failing accumulator that i live with eg stiff startup pedal. as long as i have no leaks or fluid migration, f*^k it. but i always know it's only a matter of time to r&r again. kind of like MAF's. again, just part of the joy.

 

Very good point and clarification.

 

Don't forget that with the GT2 conversion you will also need to remove and disassemble the power steering pump so you can remove the drive coupler from the unit. If you do your research you will find that many reputable tuners including Kevin at UMW advise against using the bracket (can't recall why) and highly recommend drilling and tapping the gearbox as done on the GT2 and using all factory parts. I went this route and also changed the reservoir to the GT2 model thus removing all the stock hydraulic lines. Obviously to do it this way requires the removal of the gearbox but in my opinion is the proper way to do it without Frankensteining it. Many people will disagree here especially those that sell the conversion kits. I prefer to do this via the OEM method. BTW, if anyone wants, I have a perfectly good OEM 996tt slave and accumulator (both with 6k miles) that I had removed when I converted to the GT2 parts.

 

Pm sent!

 

thanks, and to you sir. i find your posts with the diagrams you often include, highly informative and helpful.

 

Always happy to help, thank you!

 

Thanks '02996ttx50 for the clarification....
You don't HAVE to replace the accumulator together with the slave, but it's usually good practice because when the slave goes, it puts additional stress on the accumulator than normal.

Also an additional piece of info is, with the GT2 conversion, you stop using Pentosin. Sure, Dot5 brake fluid is not the greatest either, but Pentosin is pretty corrosive when it leaks everywhere.

For the record, I am NOT advocating the GT2 conversion and I am not arguing for or against it as it's not for everyone, but I wanted to provide another side to the story so that people who read this thread get as much info as possible because the OP asks should he just replace the accumulator only and there are definite pros and cons.

 

First of all, thank you for the information. I will go ahead and get both changed. Unfortunately, my car has sat for extended periods of time due to my line of work. Have to travel a bit and she stays at home in the garage. I have my brother start her up every couple weeks while I am out of town. Plan is to find a garage with a house attached and get her out here. Hate playing the waiting game, but very excited to hit some California twisties real soon. That is of course after changing my accumulator and slave. haha

 

if you haven't already, get a trickle charger like a ctek. it will save you a lot of grief upon your returns to the garage