View Poll Results: Have You Blown MAF Sensor ?
Totally Stock
12
26.67%
Stock w/EVO Air Box
2
4.44%
Flash ECU w/Stock Air Box
10
22.22%
Flash ECU w/EVO Air Box
21
46.67%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
Have you blown your MAF Sensor ?
#33
mine went bad recently,
i replaced it with a boxter maf (looked more sturdy at the
advice of a bosch engeeneer) he said that the wire
is thiker and sturdier then the 996tt version should
hold out with the cone evo filter.
Boris
i replaced it with a boxter maf (looked more sturdy at the
advice of a bosch engeeneer) he said that the wire
is thiker and sturdier then the 996tt version should
hold out with the cone evo filter.
Boris
#34
Boris, I heard the only difference you have noticed with your Boxter MAF is a higher idle . . . have you since noticed any other differences? High much higher is the idle?
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks,
Craig
#36
Originally posted by Zippy
^^^ Thanks for the explanation. I'm going to check that out.
^^^ Thanks for the explanation. I'm going to check that out.
By the way, I am able to get 15-18 samples per second on my PDA with the pocketlogger software. Basically, you can turn your "timing" settings down to 0 or close to it. I think that mine is 100 and 5 for the two settings.
#37
I didn't read all the posts, but the number of stock would greal exceeed modified. Would be nice to know the percentages of those with stock who have had issues and the percentage of those with the modifications have had failures.
#38
When you guys say you "have blown the MAF", just what are you talking about? How do you know the MAF is bad or simply needs cleaning or calibrating? Seems like alot of poeple love to blame the MAF (dealers especially) and just replace the part without any sound investigation. I have poured oil on mine, run exptreme boost, run it how, run it without filter, etc, and still have the stock MAF installed and running fine. Obviously it has needed cleaning, but I see no way the MAF can fail unless it is physically broken and I cannot see how the mods you are talking about will break it.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
#40
Originally posted by 1999Porsche911
When you guys say you "have blown the MAF", just what are you talking about? How do you know the MAF is bad or simply needs cleaning or calibrating? Seems like alot of poeple love to blame the MAF (dealers especially) and just replace the part without any sound investigation. I have poured oil on mine, run exptreme boost, run it how, run it without filter, etc, and still have the stock MAF installed and running fine. Obviously it has needed cleaning, but I see no way the MAF can fail unless it is physically broken and I cannot see how the mods you are talking about will break it.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
When you guys say you "have blown the MAF", just what are you talking about? How do you know the MAF is bad or simply needs cleaning or calibrating? Seems like alot of poeple love to blame the MAF (dealers especially) and just replace the part without any sound investigation. I have poured oil on mine, run exptreme boost, run it how, run it without filter, etc, and still have the stock MAF installed and running fine. Obviously it has needed cleaning, but I see no way the MAF can fail unless it is physically broken and I cannot see how the mods you are talking about will break it.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
Mike
#41
Originally posted by Zippy
How do you clean the MAF. I'll give it a shot.
Mike
How do you clean the MAF. I'll give it a shot.
Mike
#42
Originally posted by Ruiner
Remember, though, you can log both short and long term fuel trim. The long term should be closer to 0 while the short term (STFT) will vary with your driving conditions (and will change more often than the LTFT).
By the way, I am able to get 15-18 samples per second on my PDA with the pocketlogger software. Basically, you can turn your "timing" settings down to 0 or close to it. I think that mine is 100 and 5 for the two settings.
Remember, though, you can log both short and long term fuel trim. The long term should be closer to 0 while the short term (STFT) will vary with your driving conditions (and will change more often than the LTFT).
By the way, I am able to get 15-18 samples per second on my PDA with the pocketlogger software. Basically, you can turn your "timing" settings down to 0 or close to it. I think that mine is 100 and 5 for the two settings.
STFT1 ~ +5% (bouncing around)
LTFT1 = -2%
STFT2 = -2%
LTFT2 = -2%
Assuming the fuel trim 1 & 2 are the same as bank 1 & 2 O2 sensors, this sounds like it confirms the P0130 bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor (being replaced Wednesday) CEL.
#43
Originally posted by 1999Porsche911
When you guys say you "have blown the MAF", just what are you talking about? How do you know the MAF is bad or simply needs cleaning or calibrating? Seems like alot of poeple love to blame the MAF (dealers especially) and just replace the part without any sound investigation. I have poured oil on mine, run exptreme boost, run it how, run it without filter, etc, and still have the stock MAF installed and running fine. Obviously it has needed cleaning, but I see no way the MAF can fail unless it is physically broken and I cannot see how the mods you are talking about will break it.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
When you guys say you "have blown the MAF", just what are you talking about? How do you know the MAF is bad or simply needs cleaning or calibrating? Seems like alot of poeple love to blame the MAF (dealers especially) and just replace the part without any sound investigation. I have poured oil on mine, run exptreme boost, run it how, run it without filter, etc, and still have the stock MAF installed and running fine. Obviously it has needed cleaning, but I see no way the MAF can fail unless it is physically broken and I cannot see how the mods you are talking about will break it.
Just curious as to how many here are simply taking the easy way out and replacing the MAF unecessarily? I would be curious to see the sensor readings of the old MAF versus the new one.
#44
Originally posted by wross996TT
You make an interesting point. I thought this was some kind of electronic sensor (almost like a fuse) that could "burn out". But to be honest I don't know either. Most of what I know comes from here, Rennlist, my mechanic and the dealers (so I am conciously incompetent). Very little science being applied. Perhaps someone can actually tells us what the MAF is. We may then understand its purpose, its design and ultimately figure out a better way. What am I thinking...let's just blame the manufacturer and be done with it!
You make an interesting point. I thought this was some kind of electronic sensor (almost like a fuse) that could "burn out". But to be honest I don't know either. Most of what I know comes from here, Rennlist, my mechanic and the dealers (so I am conciously incompetent). Very little science being applied. Perhaps someone can actually tells us what the MAF is. We may then understand its purpose, its design and ultimately figure out a better way. What am I thinking...let's just blame the manufacturer and be done with it!
#45
Originally posted by Zippy
When I got home from work I plugged in the pocket logger and here's what I got (@ idle)
STFT1 ~ +5% (bouncing around)
LTFT1 = -2%
STFT2 = -2%
LTFT2 = -2%
Assuming the fuel trim 1 & 2 are the same as bank 1 & 2 O2 sensors, this sounds like it confirms the P0130 bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor (being replaced Wednesday) CEL.
When I got home from work I plugged in the pocket logger and here's what I got (@ idle)
STFT1 ~ +5% (bouncing around)
LTFT1 = -2%
STFT2 = -2%
LTFT2 = -2%
Assuming the fuel trim 1 & 2 are the same as bank 1 & 2 O2 sensors, this sounds like it confirms the P0130 bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor (being replaced Wednesday) CEL.
Here is explanation from the pocket logger website:
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...ams&type=obdii
Range: -100 to +99%
Bank: 1 or 2
Fuel Trims are correction factors applied to the base fuel map. When in closed loop mode, the O2 Sensor is used to adjust the trims based on the sensor's values. A positive trim indicates the ECU is adding fuel (a lean condition), and a negative trim indicates the ECU is taking away fuel (a rich condition) from the base fuel map. Fuel trims are not used in open loop mode.
Short Term fuel trims differ from Long Term trims in that Short Term trims are not stored between starts and they change more frequently. If there is a trend in a short term trim, eventually the long term trim will adjust to move the short term trim back to zero. This allows the ECU to adjust it's fuel map to compensate for variances in sensors or dirty injectors, etc.
The Bank indicates a group of cylinders. Inline motors typically have 1 bank. V motors have two banks. Typically there is an O2 sensor for each Bank and that is the sensor the trims use to adjust themselves. Bank 1 always contains cylinder number 1.
Last edited by Ruiner; 06-21-2005 at 10:00 PM.