996 turbo clutch life ? Is dealer scamming me?
#16
So I just did my accumulator this morning. It took about 1 hour. It was probably the easiest thing I've done on a car in a while. I'm just going to consider it a wear item and do it every 30k.
#17
Wow - thanks so much for the quick and valuable responses !! Also thanks to sinKing for the TWPS recommendation.
I had not noticed anything odd feeling with the clutch prior to this happening.
Seems to me that the right thing to do is have the warranty work fixed, find a local Indi (TPWS sounds like a good start). I read about the GT2 conversion in the archives. Sounds like the way to go once the new accumulator eventually fails.
This is a GREAT board. Its a pleasure to e-meet you guys.
Now I need to get my garage and pictures filled in.
cheers -
j
I had not noticed anything odd feeling with the clutch prior to this happening.
Seems to me that the right thing to do is have the warranty work fixed, find a local Indi (TPWS sounds like a good start). I read about the GT2 conversion in the archives. Sounds like the way to go once the new accumulator eventually fails.
This is a GREAT board. Its a pleasure to e-meet you guys.
Now I need to get my garage and pictures filled in.
cheers -
j
#19
Like most folks have suggested here, I'd be suspicious of this too. The accumulator and slave often need replacing well before the clutch goes bad. I had mine done under CPO when I first bought the car, and 30K miles later the clutch is still going strong. I think you'll usually see some other indications of the clutch going bad (e.g. slipping under load in higher gears). Also, as others have stated, the price is high. However, I've also been quoted prices in that range by dealerships, so I can't say it's out of bounds of dealer prices. You're just better off checking with an indy on the clutch and saving yourself a couple thousand dollars.
Good luck.
Good luck.
The clutch price might be high because I believe the factory calls for the engine to be dropped by my techs tell me they can replace the clutch with the engine in the car. I had the car in for a new/replacement transmisssion (under CPO warranty) and the tranny was removed with the engine left in the car. No problems.
Not having to drop the engine saves a considerable amount of labor cost.
#20
Just got off the phone with Franny at TPWS (thanks again sinKing). She quoted around $2100 for the replacement. Glad I reached out to you guys before letting the dealer do it for $4300 ![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks again
Jay
![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks again
Jay
#21
My car has the GT2 conversion. I really like it though I have never driven a stock car. I am just all for a minimalist approach. I know TPWS is not a fan of it though since they are big fans of keeping the car stock.
#24
sinKing - you hit the nail spot on about TPWS being fans of stock. Franny mentioned that during our first call
. On the other hand, my Viper is very heavily modified so I'm OK keeping my turbo "mostly" stock. I already have it lowered with an ECU mod and a champion exhuast.
Its a great car to drive.
![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Its a great car to drive.
#25
Just as a quick note: Don't go to the dealer for the obvious reasons stated above of them needing to drop the engine and charge you too much.
Also, make sure to get an aftermarket clutch. If you already have your ECU modded, you'll toast a factory clutch very very quickly.
Also, make sure to get an aftermarket clutch. If you already have your ECU modded, you'll toast a factory clutch very very quickly.
#26
Lets not all get on the "dealer is a stealer" band wagon.. This has been discussed before on several other topics..
We all know the dealer is going to be more expensive than a independent shop and often times dealers over diagnose a car to cover there butts. Consider the dealers overhead when you get a quote to do something..
But as many of own businesses we all understand and can appreciate being in business to make a fair profit.
Just remember you pay for what you get in the end.. Not saying you need to over pay but I would be VERY cautious of shops that quote very low labor rates to get your business...
You know the old saying... "The bitterness of poor quality lasts much longer than the sweetness of a great deal"
Just my.02 cents on the matter having been on both side of the fence.
Lastly mileage is NO indication of the life of a clutch.. I have had clients who have 50+k on a stock clutch and as little as 2000 miles on one.
Clutch life is a direct result of use or abuse.
We generally see a stock clutch to last about 40k on a turbo and will start to slip in the higher gears 4-5-6 when needing to be replaced.
We all know the dealer is going to be more expensive than a independent shop and often times dealers over diagnose a car to cover there butts. Consider the dealers overhead when you get a quote to do something..
But as many of own businesses we all understand and can appreciate being in business to make a fair profit.
Just remember you pay for what you get in the end.. Not saying you need to over pay but I would be VERY cautious of shops that quote very low labor rates to get your business...
You know the old saying... "The bitterness of poor quality lasts much longer than the sweetness of a great deal"
Just my.02 cents on the matter having been on both side of the fence.
Lastly mileage is NO indication of the life of a clutch.. I have had clients who have 50+k on a stock clutch and as little as 2000 miles on one.
Clutch life is a direct result of use or abuse.
We generally see a stock clutch to last about 40k on a turbo and will start to slip in the higher gears 4-5-6 when needing to be replaced.
Last edited by Fabryce@GMGRacing; 11-13-2012 at 10:53 AM.
#29
No, what I usually do is take a plasma cutter and cut the case in half to get to the flywheel and clutch assembly.