Battery change=breaking up? (help)
#1
Battery change=breaking up? (help)
So my old battery stopped holding charge and I dropped a new one in tonight. I drove my car for a about a half hour and noticed the car would break up when I got into boost, especially in the higher gears. It's fine when I slowly accelerate, but when I get on it, all I feel is just some knocking from the rear. I think I may even heard a "pop" or two in the rear. Any advice?
#2
So my old battery stopped holding charge and I dropped a new one in tonight. I drove my car for a about a half hour and noticed the car would break up when I got into boost, especially in the higher gears. It's fine when I slowly accelerate, but when I get on it, all I feel is just some knocking from the rear. I think I may even heard a "pop" or two in the rear. Any advice?
I came across a Cayenne in the dealership the other day. The tech told me the engine would start and run just fine -- idling in the service bay -- for about 5 minutes then various system warning lights would come on alarms would sound then the engine would die.
After letting the vehicle sit a while with the ignition switched off the tech reported he was able to repeat this behavior.
The diagnosis was the alternator was ok for a while -- a few minutes -- then it would stop working and the car's electrical system was powered by battery alone which is not up to this task and the behavior just before the engine died was the result of this.
#3
Well there is the possibility the alternator is not working fully and the car runs fine until the battery runs down.
I came across a Cayenne in the dealership the other day. The tech told me the engine would start and run just fine -- idling in the service bay -- for about 5 minutes then various system warning lights would come on alarms would sound then the engine would die.
After letting the vehicle sit a while with the ignition switched off the tech reported he was able to repeat this behavior.
The diagnosis was the alternator was ok for a while -- a few minutes -- then it would stop working and the car's electrical system was powered by battery alone which is not up to this task and the behavior just before the engine died was the result of this.
I came across a Cayenne in the dealership the other day. The tech told me the engine would start and run just fine -- idling in the service bay -- for about 5 minutes then various system warning lights would come on alarms would sound then the engine would die.
After letting the vehicle sit a while with the ignition switched off the tech reported he was able to repeat this behavior.
The diagnosis was the alternator was ok for a while -- a few minutes -- then it would stop working and the car's electrical system was powered by battery alone which is not up to this task and the behavior just before the engine died was the result of this.
Cheers
Mikey
#4
If you do think its the alternator pull it and test it first. They are kinda pricey. Also if your car is a 6 speed I personally had the pulley of the alternator fail as it has a slip feature built in to be more forgiving to the other pulleys when you shift gears. Autos don't have this. The other I heard lots about running through my alternator issue is the grounding strap for the motor being rusty or frayed or just loose causing bad charging issues. What does you dash gauge read? When mine went the gauge would suddenly drop when I pulled up to a light. If I slightly revved it I could make it return to normal sometimes which lead me to the failed pulley.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#5
If you do think its the alternator pull it and test it first. They are kinda pricey. Also if your car is a 6 speed I personally had the pulley of the alternator fail as it has a slip feature built in to be more forgiving to the other pulleys when you shift gears. Autos don't have this. The other I heard lots about running through my alternator issue is the grounding strap for the motor being rusty or frayed or just loose causing bad charging issues. What does you dash gauge read? When mine went the gauge would suddenly drop when I pulled up to a light. If I slightly revved it I could make it return to normal sometimes which lead me to the failed pulley.
Good luck.
Good luck.
It just seems to unlikely that a problem would spring up at the same exact time I put in a new battery :P
#6
Oh for sure. These cars do weird things sometimes.
The belt squeaking can happen simply because its raining heavy or you just washed it as the hood is like a big BBQ grill. I live in Vancouver and it rains here all the freakin time so I definitely hear that squeak periodically from time to time. Nothing to worry about.
The belt squeaking can happen simply because its raining heavy or you just washed it as the hood is like a big BBQ grill. I live in Vancouver and it rains here all the freakin time so I definitely hear that squeak periodically from time to time. Nothing to worry about.
#7
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#9
Alright so I just went for a nice long drive. As usual, it starts to really break up at the high RPMs and even back fires with a loud "pop" once in a while. Occasionally though, the car clears, but not for long. Best part though is that the CEL starts blinking, but then it goes off. Then it goes back on, etc.
#10
From my experience, when I had my car in stock form it ran great, after I flashed it all of a sudden I'd have exactly what you describe. When hitting high boost the car would sputter, miss fire as well as back fire.
I pulled the plugs out and replaced them with what epl recommended as well as what gap to run. My coils looked fine, no cracks etc.
Unfortunately I can't remember what that was as it was a couple of years ago but I'm sure doing a search you could find it.
This fixed my problem and the car has run strong ever since.
They recommend changing the plugs at 30k miles, less if your flashed.
That would be my recommendation, bit of a pain to change but cheap.
You can find DIY for this in the knowledge section on the site.
Good luck.
I pulled the plugs out and replaced them with what epl recommended as well as what gap to run. My coils looked fine, no cracks etc.
Unfortunately I can't remember what that was as it was a couple of years ago but I'm sure doing a search you could find it.
This fixed my problem and the car has run strong ever since.
They recommend changing the plugs at 30k miles, less if your flashed.
That would be my recommendation, bit of a pain to change but cheap.
You can find DIY for this in the knowledge section on the site.
Good luck.
#11
From my experience, when I had my car in stock form it ran great, after I flashed it all of a sudden I'd have exactly what you describe. When hitting high boost the car would sputter, miss fire as well as back fire.
I pulled the plugs out and replaced them with what epl recommended as well as what gap to run. My coils looked fine, no cracks etc.
Unfortunately I can't remember what that was as it was a couple of years ago but I'm sure doing a search you could find it.
This fixed my problem and the car has run strong ever since.
They recommend changing the plugs at 30k miles, less if your flashed.
That would be my recommendation, bit of a pain to change but cheap.
You can find DIY for this in the knowledge section on the site.
Good luck.
I pulled the plugs out and replaced them with what epl recommended as well as what gap to run. My coils looked fine, no cracks etc.
Unfortunately I can't remember what that was as it was a couple of years ago but I'm sure doing a search you could find it.
This fixed my problem and the car has run strong ever since.
They recommend changing the plugs at 30k miles, less if your flashed.
That would be my recommendation, bit of a pain to change but cheap.
You can find DIY for this in the knowledge section on the site.
Good luck.
Is it possible the new battery may be causing the chip to malfunction? I notice that once in a while I build a large amount of boost in the low RPMs.
#12
The best help you could be to yourself if you want to chase down problems is buy yourself a Durametric tool.
Really anything anyone could tell you is not really and thing close to a definitive answer.
Do yourself a favor and spend the < $300.00 for even the basic kit. A car that is doing what you describe could be going quite lean or even rich at times. Both of which can cause more expensive damage to your car.
http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
Really anything anyone could tell you is not really and thing close to a definitive answer.
Do yourself a favor and spend the < $300.00 for even the basic kit. A car that is doing what you describe could be going quite lean or even rich at times. Both of which can cause more expensive damage to your car.
http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx
#15
I really appreciate the generosity, but I live in Philadelphia!!