Hi,

I just had my new clutch installed (fibertough clutch) and when I came back from the shop, it was driving fine, almost like original. Two days later, my wife took my car (i usually have no problem with that), and when she came back home, the car smelled the burn clutch... I asked her what happened, she said the car was hard to drive and she had to rev to 3000-4000 rpm before realsing the clutch slowly at every corner (she had about 10-15 stops/go done).

Now, the car drive strangely... First, I have only 1(one) engagement point... nothing smooth... it's like ON or OFF and happens very close to the full depress point of the pedal lever (wich means you are almost fully release when it grip).

Second, while you are trying to engage the clutch and when the car is warm/hot, it just feels like it's bouncing, meaning it grip/ungrip/grip/ungrip for a few time until you fully release the clutch pedal. (this only happens at engagement, once engaged, it's strong and fully operational).

Anyone know what happened and what are my solution. I have OEM flywheel and all I want is OEM like engagement and feel and hold for my 18g.

Thanks

 

Solution dont let wife drive the car again lol ... Sorry

 

You probably just have some deposits on the flywheel from the wife's interesting style of starting. I wouldn't worry about it though. Just drive it easy and eventually they'll wear away. If the clutch can handle hard launches then it can handle a few miles with the wife driving ;-)

 

Hi,

Thanks for the comments.. however, what can explain the high engagement point ?

Thanks

 

A lot of aftermarket clutches have high engagement points (my Spec does and I believe CM clutches do too). It probably didn't change much, you're just noticing it more now.

 

ok... can a flywheel be cleaned ? I mean, If i DIY removal of the transmission and reach the flywheel, can I clean it myself ?

Thanks

 

Sure. If you pull the trans out of the car you can remove the flywheel and have it cleaned or resurfaced. But that's a complete waste of time and money in my opinion. Normal driving will work just the same.

Seriously, don't worry about it unless it starts slipping under power. Don't try to go WOT now though, you should still be breaking it in. Easy driving for 500-1000 miles.

 

bleed the system

 

Agreed.. Also if you are still on the assisted slave the pedal engagement moves around.

 

Hi, How would bleeding the system solve my problems ?

Thanks

 

Can't resurface a DMFW (stock), the flywheel has these rubber pieces in between the masses, from what I understand.

If the flywheel is an issue (i.e. you reused it when going with an aftermarket clutch), I would just buy a new one. They go for around $800 on ebay last time I checked.

The clutch is going to need to mate to the flywheel, you may get chatter until that's done.

Drive it another 300-500 miles and see if it gets better.

 

Simply put a clutch hydraulic fluid bleed can improve the action of the clutch.

But when the new clutch was installed this should have been done so doing it again is uncalled for, unless of course you read the work order and note it was not done or have reason to suspect it may not have been done right.

Worth a shot because it is cheaper than a tranny R&R to get at the clutch.

 

DMFWs are resurfaced all the time. As long as the FW is in serviceable shape and the DM feature is ok -- there is a "test" for this -- the FW can be resurfaced and reused.