RWD Conversion - Front CV Mod
#1
RWD Conversion - Front CV Mod
Guys
Its unlikely I will post here much but after finding just a few threads on the RWD conversion process I noticed there was some confusion about how to properly dismantle the front axles.
I read a few things about just breaking the axles - Not sure why anyone would ever want to do that when these come apart with little fuss.
In any matter, the front dif should be out prior to the following steps.
1. Loosen Axle Nut (32mm) This will take a good gun and compressor - or someone with a big set on them. Do not remove nut all the way, the tool I use in the next step can get out of hand quickly.
2. Back the axle nut to the edge of the axle so it protects the threads. Use an air hammer and chisel bit to knock the axle loose from the hub
The axle will free up - you can then remove the axle nut and remove the axle by hand.
3. Put the axle in a suitable vice - Remove the dust boot clips
4. Use a dull utensil or flat headed screwdriver to break the seal loose of the CV boot. Slide it out of the way to reveal this terrible mess
5. Clean it all off with a rag, and then hit it with a good amount of parts cleaner. Do this several times and continue to work/wobble the CV around so it works more grease out. The more you can get out now the less messy you'll get. Eventually you'll clean enough to reveal the C-clip that holds the CV onto the shaft as shown
6. I used a small flat headed screwdriver to get the C-clip pried apart a little. I then wedged in a set of ground-down 90 degree needle nose pliars and pried them apart. This will take several attemps as it requires some finesse. I used a brass hammer to lightly tap the CV forward. You can see here the clip is off of the groove and CV has moved outwards a bit
7. Continue off, now you can discard or set-aside the shaft (Yes, thats 100% pure genuine hickory in the background)
8. Put the leftover CV portion in the vice
9. Using a small hammer you can move around the race to begin pulling out the bearings. One by one you can use a magnet to remove them.
10. Now you can remove the race. It appears like its stuck in there by some form of sorcery...position it as follows and it will pull straight upwards.
11. Now clean it all up and install in the car.
12. Feel good you didn't just pull a VGLNTE and beat the **** out of it with a hammer.
Its unlikely I will post here much but after finding just a few threads on the RWD conversion process I noticed there was some confusion about how to properly dismantle the front axles.
I read a few things about just breaking the axles - Not sure why anyone would ever want to do that when these come apart with little fuss.
In any matter, the front dif should be out prior to the following steps.
1. Loosen Axle Nut (32mm) This will take a good gun and compressor - or someone with a big set on them. Do not remove nut all the way, the tool I use in the next step can get out of hand quickly.
2. Back the axle nut to the edge of the axle so it protects the threads. Use an air hammer and chisel bit to knock the axle loose from the hub
The axle will free up - you can then remove the axle nut and remove the axle by hand.
3. Put the axle in a suitable vice - Remove the dust boot clips
4. Use a dull utensil or flat headed screwdriver to break the seal loose of the CV boot. Slide it out of the way to reveal this terrible mess
5. Clean it all off with a rag, and then hit it with a good amount of parts cleaner. Do this several times and continue to work/wobble the CV around so it works more grease out. The more you can get out now the less messy you'll get. Eventually you'll clean enough to reveal the C-clip that holds the CV onto the shaft as shown
6. I used a small flat headed screwdriver to get the C-clip pried apart a little. I then wedged in a set of ground-down 90 degree needle nose pliars and pried them apart. This will take several attemps as it requires some finesse. I used a brass hammer to lightly tap the CV forward. You can see here the clip is off of the groove and CV has moved outwards a bit
7. Continue off, now you can discard or set-aside the shaft (Yes, thats 100% pure genuine hickory in the background)
8. Put the leftover CV portion in the vice
9. Using a small hammer you can move around the race to begin pulling out the bearings. One by one you can use a magnet to remove them.
10. Now you can remove the race. It appears like its stuck in there by some form of sorcery...position it as follows and it will pull straight upwards.
11. Now clean it all up and install in the car.
12. Feel good you didn't just pull a VGLNTE and beat the **** out of it with a hammer.
#2
I'm guessing this is done to retain the ABS reluctor ring? If possible a badass would have all that extra material machined off for weight savings.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
I got quite a few things back together tonight. The clutch/PP/FW are all in, trans stabbed, and the slave all hooked up.
Next step is the bleeding procedure to see if we can really start buttoning it up....
Next step is the bleeding procedure to see if we can really start buttoning it up....
#10
Hi,
I just don't understand why everybody is going to the trouble of destroying good axles.
You can replace the stub AKA "Tension bolt" with the 2WD part from the GT2 or 996.
Part # 99634113190 #5 in picture below.
I just don't understand why everybody is going to the trouble of destroying good axles.
You can replace the stub AKA "Tension bolt" with the 2WD part from the GT2 or 996.
Part # 99634113190 #5 in picture below.
#11
That is a viable option as well. I didn't spend more than 10-15 mins a piece on each axle getting them apart and probably half of that time was spent ensuring I didn't grease up my phone while taking the pictures. I guess its dependent on how much your time is worth....
#14
Both. Save about 70lbs with a full conversion, and you get that GT2 feeling...
My car felt much faster with the RWD conversion, and quite frankly was useless as an AWD vehicle. Some just drop the front axles, which is kind of useless. The right way is to remove axles and front differential.
#15
My front diff makes a 'whine' that has driven me nuts since I bought the car. I'm wondering if this might be a good way to take care of that. I just don't want to lose performance if it's better AWD.