I'm attempting to replicate this - it's not as easy as it looks

The straps are spring steel, drilling them is proving "fun". I started by measuring the gap between my old intercooler halves and my new setup fitted to a core. I then cut a strap in half and attempted to make the gap between them the same as my measured difference. The result was a very loose strap!

Based upon that I've done another piece of aluminum with a tighter gap and this one is pretty tight, possibly too tight so the next one I'll loosen a bit. Overall though this is an awesome idea and is going to hold the halves together well. I've found some weatherseal that looks like it will do the job too although fully sealing the bottom duct is hard due to the way it had to be trimmed for the end tank exit. I might use a bit of RTV to complete the lower seal if I get ambitious. I hope to have one side done tomorrow and will try to post up some pics of this PITA

 

You want to use a dremmel with a cut off wheel for steel. It cuts the straps in half like butter. Sand the edges and corners smooth and spray them with a little flat black paint. After you have your intercoolers and shrouds mounted, put the two strap halves on the shrouds and squeeze them together so you get a nice seal on the intercooler cores. Then measure the gap between the strap halves and you know exactly how much you need to extend them. The rest is easy. Get some aluminum 1/16x3/4 stock from any hardware store and use that for the extender. Drill a couple of 1/8" holes and simple aluminum rivets complete the job. Voila!

 

Heh, yeah I figured out the squeeze it together and measure method when I was making the latest set! I used a larger pop rivet and thicker material as it was available but the thinner stuff might be better for this purpose. A hacksaw cut the clips easily enough but drilling was a challenge, I finally found a cobalt bit that isn't phased by it! I also found some nice plastic scrap I could've used instead of the aluminum but one side is done and I'm leaving it

Managed to lose one of the cage mounting nuts though. I'm hoping it will turn up, possibly when I move the car out of the garage. I used a magnetic tray to hold everything so I suspect stupidity on my part. I can't find them in the PET manual but would really prefer a Porsche spec nut on there - yes silly <sigh>

Here's some pictures of where I'm at. I expect the driver's side to go FAR more quickly. Left to do is trim the plastic piece that helps hold the bumper on the car as it currently interferes with the end tank. I will also be building a bridge piece to support the lower rubber gasket that goes on the duct since the new gap won't allow the upper part to mount currently.







This is ugly but it's sealed and functional!





Stupid nut!!



I'll try to take better pics as I do the second one. I'll get this one fitted this weekend completely but then have to go out of town for a bit. Second one will go much more quickly and should look better too!

 

Very Nice! A step-up on air control!

 

One interesting thing to note - I had some issues getting the ducts to seal in the fender, it took a few tries and some material removal on the upper duct on the intercooler. While doing this I checked my driver's side duct and found a gap there too! This duct has no such gap now although there may be a slight gap between the core and the lower duct. I've done my best short of RTV to seal it all. I will do the same on the other side as well. The core I pulled out was filthy right in the center but not nearly so much to the edges which I found interesting.

Looking forward to seeing how this performs, if you look closely you can see the wires for one of the temp sensors. It's as sealed as I can make it that's for sure and it sits rock solid despite missing a damned nut!

 

It takes some work to seal it all up but its all doable. I've done probably 50 of these myself and after a while you get better at it. There is a trick to cutting the upper duct so there is no gap up on top.

 

I can't remember (and I'm too lazy to search...) if I've already posted this in this thread, put below's a datalog of 100-315 kmh pull with .7 GT2 RS ICs. Turbochargers are .7.1 VTGs with 1.3bar boost, so there's a lot of heat to remove. About 30 seconds WOT / 4-6 gears.

 

I just did a car remote tuning on dyno on oem vtg 1.45bar to 1.2 bar on top rpm 3rd gear pull with intake temps climbing to 60C. The snail fans were on the lower outlets. It was in the high 80s outside.
I also have a log from the other day with a client sent with out 63.5" compressors on gt2rs Ics as well and temps going up similarly. I'll try to post today some screen shots.
Just passing what I found and not hating on RSs but when I hear that they blow doors off decent bar n plates I beg to differ. Logs coming in a bit.

 

Stupid is what stuipd does...ie if someone's asking more from the parts than they can deliver, something mentioned below can happen. Explanation follows.

Attached is the .7.1 turbo's ompressor map. Marked in green is where their normal operating area is. In red where 1.45 bar lies...bit of a difference in compressor efficiency, isn't it? General wisdom of turbos technology says that more heat is generated. And, if you're at dyno, starting a 3rd gear pull with heat soaked engine from about 30C OAT and end up with 60C IAT IC's perform quite well...considering two small blowers are blowing to wrong direction....compared to IRL use on the road. Just sayin'...

Here again more than designed amount of heat is generated by the turbos, because of somehow mismatched compressor vs turbine. More about this has been discussed in certain thread about Champion MS's VGTs...

If someone posts datalogs with temperatures, please be sure that they're from the road, not from the dyno. Dyno one are IMO worthless.

 

Here is a quick log on a stock vtg compressor on RS ICs running sport crono .9 bar. Took a pic with my cell
I also have street pulls as well on 63.5 mm and on stock. I'm not the doing the pulls or the logs. Im just trying to tune the cars.



Here is a clients pull on 63.5" mm set up with RS Ics I just received in 3rd gear on the road.
I'm not making this up I'm passing on what I found and I'm trying to tune it fighting intake temps. Granted it is summer. I know it's a loosing battle debating with the RS believers but as much bad data there is on the bar n plate( many choices), there is also data on the RS that may surprise a many. I just don't want to be the person to always do it and get beat in the process. One of my clients got so fed up with the RS after 2 end tank failures that he finally swapped them out after $3500 into them and the down time along with labor costs. It's just very difficult to get these guys to speak out because they are so frustrated about that that the last thing they care about is a debate online about RS ICs.
I also have clients in Germany in the autobahn with RC Ics and performance figures with all sort of data. I can whip them out if I look thru my emails. But as I said, it's a loosing debate from the get go. However , I do believe they are worth the money just have issue with some of the hype behind it.
63.5" Ics on a tune 1.5 and drops to 1.3 bar on a tip. 3rd gear on street in hot summer.

 

So these are not the GT2RS intercoolers?
Basically the 997.1 which I believe are the same as the 996 X50/S intercoolers.

48C is not a bad temp for those intercoolers at WOT on 1.3bar....

 

My bad, they're RS's ICs. I corrected my previous post.

 

1.2-1.3 bar peak on all below

I run E85 most of the time and ETS Intercoolers... the ETS for my style of driving and mods are perfect...

After a few pulls and 50 miles the other day on around E70 fuel (I just changed back from a week or 93 oct)... I did some basic 3rd gear pulls....

http://datazap.me/u/groupamerica/50-...log=0&data=1-3

IATs did not move... I know this is a not a 0-150 mph pull but it was 80F outside and 90% humidity and after a good windy road drive.

On the stock ICs for the Turbo S (X50) from a year ago in same conditions and same style of driving, same exact road

http://datazap.me/u/groupamerica/85-...log=0&data=1-7

One with E85 and 70F temps as above

http://datazap.me/u/groupamerica/e85...log=0&data=1-7


I will see if I can get to a private track here and do 5 or so 30-150 mph pulls in 80F plus temps and post.

There was this great old thread comparing GT2RS and ETS which depending on the style of driving and mods could be better or worse for you.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...7-2-gt2rs.html

 

Wolf, thanks so much for the data, but how is it possible the IAT's don't move by even 1 degree, its just a straight line.....
Not doubting you but could something be off on your setup?

 

because 3rd gear pulls on a 6 speed don't stress most decent intercoolers.


Here's a log I did "flogging" the ETS 16 row coolers in 85F / 1.3bar conditions to simulate part of a road course lap. I did a 30-150, 60-110, 60-130 and 10-130 over a 3 minute period. In these logs my temp gain for every 3rd gear pull was 0-3C depending on if there was a loaded 2nd gear pull in front of it -there just isn't much time in 1-3rd gear to load them much.


Note that driving around for 4 minutes after the pull they're still not to the pre-loading temps...that's 17 lbs of thermal mass now working against me. Not a knock on ETS coolers, they actually do pretty well (21C over ambient after a little abuse is pretty decent) but have some drawbacks trying to shed the heat afterwards.


Now imagine doing this for 20 minutes for an idea of how much more stressful a road course environment is on an intercooler than a drag race or dyno pull. This is why I'm always after data, most coolers out there do great...for a few seconds As Wolf said, its all about your intended application.