Help with strange ticking or clicking sound
#16
04-26-2013 | 02:36 PM
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Hey brotha, that used to be my fathers car you just picked up. It did that the whole time he owned it which is 3+ years. The ticks never got louder, softer, shorter or longer. Always the same amount of ticks and never effected anything. It also irritated my father but thats the extent of it. Once he found out what shops wanted to do the work, we felt it was a complete waste of money. It is probably just a fuse or something of that nature, but it never transpired to anything else.
But a fuse? I don't think pushing up on the bottom of a gauge pod is going to make a fuse problem go away. And I don't think fuses have intermittent problems; seems like they blow or they don't.
Whatever it is is clearly a mechanical something that can be corrected by force. I took it by Hennessy today and asked my service writer (Matt Bailey, good guy, used to be a wrench) what he thought. Showed him all the details. He gave me a local speedo guy's name, said to run it by him and see if he couldn't fix it. I've talked to him and will be taking it there week after next when I get back in town. We'll see.
#19
04-27-2013 | 05:35 AM
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Great idea! Never thought of that, not being part of the YouTube generation. Let me read up on how to post there and I'll be back.
Thanks
EDIT: Here ya go. Hope it works...
Thanks
EDIT: Here ya go. Hope it works...
Last edited by NoGaBiker; 04-27-2013 at 06:33 AM.
#20
04-27-2013 | 07:44 AM
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oh, you meant a TICKING! nice vid, and welcome to the youtube gen..so, it's electrical in nature, why not have a tech take it out, check it out.. and reinstall it after checking connections. if it still works, then it's got to be a connection the noise isn't "mechanical", is it? it's "electrical". no? how did two separate shops not figure it out? they have to remove it first i would guess... i couldn't live with that either ! i apologize for my earlier flippancy, but earlier you said it just "ticked"..
#21
04-27-2013 | 09:08 AM
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You might want to reread my original post! I'm going out of town for 10 days; after that I'll be taking it to a speedo guy. As to why the two shops couldn't fix it, they told the PO that they would have to take everything apart, and it would probably need a new instrument cluster for $3000, and he said screw it, as would I. But if the speedo guy can actually fix it, that's worth doing.
#22
04-27-2013 | 09:55 AM
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me actually READ a post before talking s*ht? what,.. me worry?
but in reality. it's probably a loose connection is all....but that's a helluva ticking
( empathy )
#23
04-27-2013 | 10:28 AM
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place out here rebuilds them also. if you can stand having the car sit while you shipped it. be a lot less than 3k im sure.
me actually READ a post before talking s*ht? what,.. me worry? but in reality. it's probably a loose connection is all....
but that's a helluva ticking ( empathy )
me actually READ a post before talking s*ht? what,.. me worry?
but in reality. it's probably a loose connection is all....but that's a helluva ticking
( empathy )
#24
04-27-2013 | 03:00 PM
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If you mean North Hollywood or Palo Alto Speedo, yeah, they are the Gods of that business. If I can't get it fixed locally I'll definitely be sending out there. But, the car's new right now, I'm excited, and there's no way anybody's getting it out of my hands for more than a day! I'm able to tune it out somewhat now.
ets
#25
08-02-2020 | 09:24 AM
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Okay, I've got this posted up on Rennlist for the past couple days but nobody is really playing there. So I'll try you guys because you're undoubtedly smarter.
About 90% of the time when I insert the key and turn it to the ACC position the following happens: all lights come on in instrument panel, a fast audible ticking or clicking begins, perhaps 2-3 clicks per second. Sounds like it's coming from behind the right side of upper IP. It lasts exactly 10 seconds. The instant it ends the gauge needles (fuel, temp if the car's warm, ammeter), which had lain dormant against their pegs, spring to life and scuttle up to the proper position. Everything works properly from then on.
It also happens when you turn the key to off. Needles immediately go dead as they should, but ticking ensues for exactly 10 seconds. This happens about the same frequency of time as on startup.
If you don't wait the 10 seconds for the ticking to stop, but just go ahead and turn to IGNITION, the car fires normally, but the ticking continues for the 10 seconds, and none of the guages, including now the oil pressure guage and tach, work till the ticking stops. But all lights in the dash and the OBC display, clock, temp, etc work perfectly. Once the ticking stops there are no other indications of any trouble whatsoever.
One final data point: when the ticking incident DOESN'T happen, the gauges snap to attention immediately, just like they should, so the 10-second-ticking and the delayed tach/fuel/temp/OP/ammeter needles are definitely intertwined.
PO took car to dealer and to Motor Werks Racing and neither could solve without tearing into it. I confirmed with the dealer before buying that they had looked at it and PO hadn't wanted them taking dash apart. I suspect dealer's answer would be a quick Let's Put a new IP in for $3000. Since it's been doing it at least 4 years and doesn't seem to affect anything, I'm not interested in doing that.
So, just wondering if there's any good ideas out there of ways to run this down without pulling anything apart? I can sorta get a hand up under the dash if need be.
About 90% of the time when I insert the key and turn it to the ACC position the following happens: all lights come on in instrument panel, a fast audible ticking or clicking begins, perhaps 2-3 clicks per second. Sounds like it's coming from behind the right side of upper IP. It lasts exactly 10 seconds. The instant it ends the gauge needles (fuel, temp if the car's warm, ammeter), which had lain dormant against their pegs, spring to life and scuttle up to the proper position. Everything works properly from then on.
It also happens when you turn the key to off. Needles immediately go dead as they should, but ticking ensues for exactly 10 seconds. This happens about the same frequency of time as on startup.
If you don't wait the 10 seconds for the ticking to stop, but just go ahead and turn to IGNITION, the car fires normally, but the ticking continues for the 10 seconds, and none of the guages, including now the oil pressure guage and tach, work till the ticking stops. But all lights in the dash and the OBC display, clock, temp, etc work perfectly. Once the ticking stops there are no other indications of any trouble whatsoever.
One final data point: when the ticking incident DOESN'T happen, the gauges snap to attention immediately, just like they should, so the 10-second-ticking and the delayed tach/fuel/temp/OP/ammeter needles are definitely intertwined.
PO took car to dealer and to Motor Werks Racing and neither could solve without tearing into it. I confirmed with the dealer before buying that they had looked at it and PO hadn't wanted them taking dash apart. I suspect dealer's answer would be a quick Let's Put a new IP in for $3000. Since it's been doing it at least 4 years and doesn't seem to affect anything, I'm not interested in doing that.
So, just wondering if there's any good ideas out there of ways to run this down without pulling anything apart? I can sorta get a hand up under the dash if need be.
exact same problem with my instrument cluster. Did you end up solving the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
#28
08-06-2020 | 09:06 PM
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My 03 has done the same thing every once in a while for the last 8 years. When it does happen I wait the 10 seconds, proceed as normal and then feel great for the rest of the day as I just saved myself $3,000! Seriously, never got worse or caused any other problems and I have put on 60k+ miles since it started.
#29
08-07-2020 | 05:49 PM
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My 03 has done the same thing every once in a while for the last 8 years. When it does happen I wait the 10 seconds, proceed as normal and then feel great for the rest of the day as I just saved myself $3,000! Seriously, never got worse or caused any other problems and I have put on 60k+ miles since it started.
cheers,
Nick
#30
08-30-2020 | 11:05 AM
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Greetings, been following this site and the others for a couple years, but this is my first post and I appreciate any help/guidance.
Just picked up an ‘04 x50 1 owner 30k mi to replace my c4s. Big fun. But def a little more quirky.
Reason for my post is that I have the exact same ticking noise upon both ignition on and off. Also the battery gauge does not work (at all) and the tach needle seems kind of sticky/notchy. Lastly, the car seems to have the “delayed start” problem where (pretty randomly, but may be more frequent when car warm) sometimes it won’t turn over and need to turn key off then try again and then starts fine. Battery (Porsche/moll) tests fine but not sure of age. Also has aftermarket radio with a microphone installed right on top of the steering column so not sure if the installer may have messed up a connection to the gauge cluster?
Have you guys with the ticking every solved the issue? And any other thoughts/advice?
My reading leads me to thinking bad connection at cluster, clutch switch, ignition switch, battery Y-cable, relay, or all/some/none of the above.
Just picked up an ‘04 x50 1 owner 30k mi to replace my c4s. Big fun. But def a little more quirky.
Reason for my post is that I have the exact same ticking noise upon both ignition on and off. Also the battery gauge does not work (at all) and the tach needle seems kind of sticky/notchy. Lastly, the car seems to have the “delayed start” problem where (pretty randomly, but may be more frequent when car warm) sometimes it won’t turn over and need to turn key off then try again and then starts fine. Battery (Porsche/moll) tests fine but not sure of age. Also has aftermarket radio with a microphone installed right on top of the steering column so not sure if the installer may have messed up a connection to the gauge cluster?
Have you guys with the ticking every solved the issue? And any other thoughts/advice?
My reading leads me to thinking bad connection at cluster, clutch switch, ignition switch, battery Y-cable, relay, or all/some/none of the above.