Ok, I've searched and found a lot of information, but a lot of it is several years old. Before I purchase a clutch, I want to get opinions of the clutches below (please only comment if you have one of the below clutched intalled in your car).

These are all clutches a that I believe are rated for at least 600wtq, which is my goal for the car.

This is also 100% a street car. Though it will see a few casual trips to the dragstrip and maybe an occasional autocross, the priority will be as a street car, that even my wife can drive (though keep in mind her daily driver is a V10 M5).

All pricing is estimated from online sites and include the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, alignment tool and installation kit (pressure plate bolts).

BTW I will be keeping my stock dual mass flywheel.

CLUTCH
TQ RATING
COST

SPEC Stage 2+
?
$1,200

ACT Xtreme (street)
787
$1,400

SACHS Stage 3
750
$1,700 (not sure if the pressure plate needs to be modified)

Clutch Masters Stage 2.5+
?
$2,100

EVOMS Stage 3?
700
$2,400

Thanks for the input,
Steve

 

I believe the EVOMS stage 3 is a CM3. CM3 is a great choice or, if you budget permits, ERP mutil-disc. Stay away from ACT as some people have had issues with them.

 

Do your self a favor and get a ERP!!! The twin disc will easily handle your goals and it will be less $$$$ then the triple if you are on a budget...

 

UMW put together a great clutch & flywheel package for my car which has been holding my 600hp more then well, and the car drives like stock. Before this I had the clutch masters set up and there is no comparison. My car was not much fun with the CM setup.

 

I have no plans to order a multi disc clutch.

They can be noisy, aren't needed for my power level and quite frankly cost close to 15% of the value of most 996TT's out there.

And unlike a nice set of wheels, they can't be removed and sold if you sale the car (they can, but it's no likely).

Later, Steve

 

Better to have more than not enough and ERP driveability is good. It's not an "easy" task to swap clutches - just keep that in mind.

 

The ACT that was in my car lasted less then 3000 miles in my 600 hp car and when I told ACT that it smoked it with less then 3000 miles they asked me a bunch of questions on how I used my car and if it was modified. Then they told me they would be very willing to SELL me the parts to fix it.

I put an earlier version of ERP in my car; after several thousand miles it got a little less then perfectly smooth but only in reverse. Notice I said a little; not a problem. And I call Cary from ERP about it and he tells me he has upgraded the unit since that version and the new unit is 100% kosher now; he offers to replace all the parts that my unit needs for free because he wants me to be 100% happy no questions asked. My ERP makes no more noise then my ACT did with a heavy FW and it is 1000x more forgiving to drive.

Hmmm now who do I want to do business with.

Yup and we just rebuilt my buddies CM clutch for the second time in 1.5 years, this winter it is hitting a bin or the for sale section on here and we will put a ERP into his car just because I know there will be ZERO issues with it taking his 850 hp for years.

Sorry if my answer does not pick from your list of clutch's but I think you're nuts if you choose anyone of those on your list over a ERP.

 

I have a Clutch Masters 2.5 and a GT2 hydraulics conversion. I love it. It is stiff and it means business. You also get great clutch feel and know when it is engaging. Your wife, however, may not like it. My hundred pound girlfriend doesn't really have the strength to consistently actuate the clutch pedal and loves her stock M3 clutch which I find way too light and numb.

 

Great post Steve. I will be looking for a heavy duty clutch setup in the near future, when I upgrade to K16G billets.

What about the added stress on the clutch slave and pressure accumulator with a heavy duty clutch?

 

I have to agree. Get the erp twin. They make no where near the noise you are thinking about! The clutch will out last anyone of those on your list. Do not forget that the erp comes with: Flywheel (alum or steel), flywheel bolts, starter ring and new throwout bearing. Please do not forget to factor in those items when you look at prices.

I was very skeptical about this clutch but I had to do something. I was very tried of changing clutches sometimes after one weekend of beating it. I went to a carbonetics and it lasted a year, made a hell of a racket too. Now after using ERP I will never go back. There is a ton of thought in this clutch with the drive ability to prove it.

 

I am on my 3rd clutch, 2 past Clutch Masters and present Sachs Performance.
I wish I would have went to that ERP set-up at first and I would have been done with it..
Next clutch will be that..

 

And I would bet you a nickel that Cary told you the same thing he told me even factoring in that fact that you will make well over 1000 hp at times.

And what he said is likely something like this... "Tim I know you are going to abuse the chit out of this thing; I want you to and I will support my product"

I have not come across many manufacturers of aftermarket goods that stand behind their products so well.

 

Cary is great and the clutch is awesome +1

 

OK, I don't want to be too closed minded and others may benefit from this information in the future.

My reservations:
- If the twin disk is a true multi disk clutch, you have to replace the flywheel.
- I don't need a new flywheel. There aren't that many miles on my current flywheel, so the added cost is not necessary.
- I'm pretty easy on clutches, even with trips to the dragstrip, dyno passes and roadcourse use on previous cars, I typically get over 100,000+ miles out of a clutch (this includes a 600wtq car that saw over 100 dyno passes a handful of dragstrip passes and thousands of roadcourse miles).
- More than likely a stock disk and 20%-30% stiffer pressure plate would hold the power
- I don't need something that can hold 1,000wtq. There are compromises the higher the power handling capabilities, even if the compromise is just cost.
- A 997 turbo with the improved awd system and dual clutch transmission is better than the 996 turbo, but not worth the extra cost IMHO (same thought process for the clutch).

I'm not questioning how good the ERP clutch is, but the Sachs stage 3 is probably enough and the cost difference given my situtation it quite large. Total cost of a Sachs stage 3 clutch (without a new flywheel) $1,700, Cost of ERP clutch if I have to buy a new flywheel $3,500. Difference $1,800

Great discussion, thanks for the input/feedback.

Later, Steve

 

The prices in my original post includes new flywheel bolts and a new throwout bearing.

Later, Steve