Pictures of Sharky's Bent Rod....
#20
08-06-2005 | 11:13 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,379
From: Long Island, NY
Rep Power: 345
Shark, you need to define your cars objective. Is it a street car, a drag car or a track car?
I used Carrillo rods fore my low RPM (<8000rpm) endurance type engines, ie sprint cars, etc. Too much reciprocating mass for drag racing.
For all out drag racing, I would go with aluminum rods or titanium, just change them once a season, alot less reciprocating mass.
A street car, stock or carrillo's I guess, but it really doesn't sound streetable anymore to me.
As far as racing tires, don't f with anything with treads on it at the strip, You'll never hook up all that power. Hope your differential is up top the task.
Disclaimer, all my racing experience is limited to small block chevrolets, NHRA drag racing, sprint cars and the like.
My drag cars weighed 2800#,385ci SB, shift at 10k, cross the lights at 11k, 9:40's at 148ish mph with a '55 chevy body/tube chassis, carried the front wheels 60 ft, zero spin. My engines dynoed at 650hp.
If your car is making 700 hp on an engine dyno, and you're barely running ten's, you're not hooking up at all, all up in smoke is what it sounds like to me. You need to set up your chassis and tires somehow and dump some weight. Then you'll break the 10 second barrier. Good luck!
I used Carrillo rods fore my low RPM (<8000rpm) endurance type engines, ie sprint cars, etc. Too much reciprocating mass for drag racing.
For all out drag racing, I would go with aluminum rods or titanium, just change them once a season, alot less reciprocating mass.
A street car, stock or carrillo's I guess, but it really doesn't sound streetable anymore to me.
As far as racing tires, don't f with anything with treads on it at the strip, You'll never hook up all that power. Hope your differential is up top the task.
Disclaimer, all my racing experience is limited to small block chevrolets, NHRA drag racing, sprint cars and the like.
My drag cars weighed 2800#,385ci SB, shift at 10k, cross the lights at 11k, 9:40's at 148ish mph with a '55 chevy body/tube chassis, carried the front wheels 60 ft, zero spin. My engines dynoed at 650hp.
If your car is making 700 hp on an engine dyno, and you're barely running ten's, you're not hooking up at all, all up in smoke is what it sounds like to me. You need to set up your chassis and tires somehow and dump some weight. Then you'll break the 10 second barrier. Good luck!
#22
08-07-2005 | 03:29 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 170
From: LI, NY
Rep Power: 28
SHarky, GOod move throwing the ARP rod bolts on there anyways. WIth the pistons get the tops ceramic coated and the sides coating with swain Poly Moly. CHeck out swain tech for pricing and what not.
#23
08-07-2005 | 11:08 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,934
From: The Woodlands, TX
Rep Power: 105
I'm impressed that it did not fail. What caused it to bend? I'm guessing it was more power related than a detonation or over-rev problem. What kind of damage was done to the engine? What parts needed replacement?
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