2001 or 2002 911 Turbo?
#16
11-15-2013 | 02:54 PM
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 32
From: Upstate NY
Rep Power: 12
Strong suggestion is to bring the car, if possible, for a (PPI) to the same place you expect to modify your car. After all, they will be the ones who will "green light" your car for mods or not. I learned this the hard way... TWICE. I will now pay extra to have my tuner/builder (or one of their local representatives/affiliate shops) look at all future purchases BEFORE I make any decisions.
From my limited research, there is a pretty strong Chitown 996 contingent, with MANY shops, which have tentacles all over the continent/globe to help you make the right choice. Hope this helps and welcome in advance!
From my limited research, there is a pretty strong Chitown 996 contingent, with MANY shops, which have tentacles all over the continent/globe to help you make the right choice. Hope this helps and welcome in advance!
#17
11-15-2013 | 03:19 PM
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
From: Michigan
Rep Power: 0
I enjoy a manual transmission but past experience has led me to believe that an auto tolerates modified motors better than manuals.
Can anyone recommend an inspector in the Chicago area?
Can anyone recommend an inspector in the Chicago area?
#19
11-15-2013 | 03:35 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,218
From: SoCal
Rep Power: 90
... Afterwards arrange for a PPI and get the car in the air and look for fluid leaks. Everything. RMS. Spoiler hydraulics. Axle boots. Tranny seals. Shifter rod seals. Water pump. Camshaft covers. Diff flange seals (rear and front!). Power steering rack, hoses/fittings. Anywhere there is a fitting, gasket, seal, or connection, check for any leak sign. Do this after the test ride/drive as use will give the leaks, if any exist, a chance to well, leak.
2nd gear pop out and boost leak test.
Last edited by 996TWINS; 11-15-2013 at 03:39 PM.
#22
11-15-2013 | 04:37 PM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 481
From: SoCal
Rep Power: 65
#26
11-15-2013 | 08:58 PM
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 347
From: Butt cold Minneapolis
Rep Power: 27
Turkish
Can vouch for Enes / Turkish and his maniac level obsession to maintain his vehicles. It's a quick, clean great car for sale. If truly interested in a sorted out turbo, This car is good to go. Has pedigree and there are two local shops that could do a ppi with complete integrity.
Good luck on your search. Btw, I have a tip, and love it in traffic AND on the track, so while there are so many purists here, I'm happy with my decision in this car. Enjoy the search adventure!
Good luck on your search. Btw, I have a tip, and love it in traffic AND on the track, so while there are so many purists here, I'm happy with my decision in this car. Enjoy the search adventure!
#28
12-18-2013 | 09:59 AM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 46
From: Los Angeles
Rep Power: 0
AFAIK there was no engine displacement increase from 2001 to 2002 for the 996 Turbo. The engine started out a 3.6l and remained a 3.6l all through the model run.
Only you can answer the question Tip vs. manual.
As for which one to buy, all other things being equal the newer one.
What to look out for?
Everything. Either car is just a used car.
Visit the car cold. Be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key to on and goes off as the engine starts and runs.
Listen to the engine idle as it warms up. The engine could sound a bit ragged (VarioCam Plus (low lift) coupled with an overly rich mixture to warm up the cats) but as the engine (converters) gain heat the engine should smooth out and the idle speed drop.
Continue to let the engine idle as you walk around the car.
Have the seller take you on a test ride, 15 miles, and drive the car in a variety of ways. You pay attention to how the car sounds, feels, how the engine sounds, runs, and how the tranny (manual or Tip) shifts.
Pay attention to the manual for any signs it wants to come out of gear.
Watch the oil pressure gage. Hot idle wants to be around 1 bar to 2 bar. At 3K RPMs and above the oil pressure should be at least 3 bar. Generally the rough rule of thumb is 1 bar per 1000 RPMs. But remember the oil pressure gage is not the most precise gage around.
During the ride (and later during your drive) watch the boost gage under hard acceleration. Stock the boost should hit 0.7 bar. Under some conditions it can go higher (elevation can cause the boost to go over 0.7 bar), and once it hits its peak it should taper down gradually as RPMs climb.
After the test ride then you switch seats and take the car out as a driver, following the same route, driving the car the same way.
The test wants to have at least one multi-gear hard acceleration run to ensure the engine pulls good from down low and then strong once the turbos kick in and pulls strong all the way up to red line, and then continues this after an upshift. Afterwards, the engine should settle into a nice smooth idle.
Back at the starting point, check everything. Get a hold of a used car check list (PPI list) and go through that.
Check everything, assume nothing works until you confirm it does.
Afterwards arrange for a PPI and get the car in the air and look for fluid leaks. Everything. RMS. Spoiler hydraulics. Axle boots. Tranny seals. Shifter rod seals. Water pump. Camshaft covers. Diff flange seals (rear and front!). Power steering rack, hoses/fittings. Anywhere there is a fitting, gasket, seal, or connection, check for any leak sign. Do this after the test ride/drive as use will give the leaks, if any exist, a chance to well, leak.
Only you can answer the question Tip vs. manual.
As for which one to buy, all other things being equal the newer one.
What to look out for?
Everything. Either car is just a used car.
Visit the car cold. Be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key to on and goes off as the engine starts and runs.
Listen to the engine idle as it warms up. The engine could sound a bit ragged (VarioCam Plus (low lift) coupled with an overly rich mixture to warm up the cats) but as the engine (converters) gain heat the engine should smooth out and the idle speed drop.
Continue to let the engine idle as you walk around the car.
Have the seller take you on a test ride, 15 miles, and drive the car in a variety of ways. You pay attention to how the car sounds, feels, how the engine sounds, runs, and how the tranny (manual or Tip) shifts.
Pay attention to the manual for any signs it wants to come out of gear.
Watch the oil pressure gage. Hot idle wants to be around 1 bar to 2 bar. At 3K RPMs and above the oil pressure should be at least 3 bar. Generally the rough rule of thumb is 1 bar per 1000 RPMs. But remember the oil pressure gage is not the most precise gage around.
During the ride (and later during your drive) watch the boost gage under hard acceleration. Stock the boost should hit 0.7 bar. Under some conditions it can go higher (elevation can cause the boost to go over 0.7 bar), and once it hits its peak it should taper down gradually as RPMs climb.
After the test ride then you switch seats and take the car out as a driver, following the same route, driving the car the same way.
The test wants to have at least one multi-gear hard acceleration run to ensure the engine pulls good from down low and then strong once the turbos kick in and pulls strong all the way up to red line, and then continues this after an upshift. Afterwards, the engine should settle into a nice smooth idle.
Back at the starting point, check everything. Get a hold of a used car check list (PPI list) and go through that.
Check everything, assume nothing works until you confirm it does.
Afterwards arrange for a PPI and get the car in the air and look for fluid leaks. Everything. RMS. Spoiler hydraulics. Axle boots. Tranny seals. Shifter rod seals. Water pump. Camshaft covers. Diff flange seals (rear and front!). Power steering rack, hoses/fittings. Anywhere there is a fitting, gasket, seal, or connection, check for any leak sign. Do this after the test ride/drive as use will give the leaks, if any exist, a chance to well, leak.
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