How to achieve roughly ~600 AWHP on X50 car?
#17
Sorry to say, even I was hoping that, but I have talked to Blouch Turbo,a few tuners..
The cast verses the billet is not an issue for spool up ,only for an advanced design to make a bit more power.
Also remember that the 3071s are ball bearing..
There a few more thing also incomparison that makes the 3071s spool quicker over those which I can no explain in their design..
#18
Thats great to know. My gt700 turbos a28 ball bearing machined into k24s on pump put down 625/625 but i was running 24lbs of boost. I stil have yrt to see the perfect combo of low lag and hi power. Wis i had an old set of gt800 turbos
#21
I'm not saying it can't be done as I know it has but it's not a tune I'd want everyday on a stock block.
#24
If you look at the link in my sig to my build, it should give you a good idea of what you need, plus you'll need a bit more since I'm only at about 600 hp/tq so probably 510 whp/wtq. So take my engine upgrades and add the following and you should get close:
Upgraded hybrid turbos
Switch back FPR
Upgraded injectors
Upgraded plenum
New tune
With regards to the plenum, your stock throttle body is ok, but you'll be at its limit at 600 whp/wtq. You could see a small improvement with a larger throttle body, which would also allow you to go to a larger plenum in case you're considering further power upgrades in the future. Like I said, this setup (my engine/exhaust/clutch mods plus above) should get you close to your goal, but possibly a little short. I think adding some larger intercoolers too would push you over the 600 mark for sure.
Upgraded hybrid turbos
Switch back FPR
Upgraded injectors
Upgraded plenum
New tune
With regards to the plenum, your stock throttle body is ok, but you'll be at its limit at 600 whp/wtq. You could see a small improvement with a larger throttle body, which would also allow you to go to a larger plenum in case you're considering further power upgrades in the future. Like I said, this setup (my engine/exhaust/clutch mods plus above) should get you close to your goal, but possibly a little short. I think adding some larger intercoolers too would push you over the 600 mark for sure.
#25
Thanks guys! So I'm thinking ~550AWHP/600+FT/LBs is a bit more realistic for now. So right now I'm considering:
- K24/20s (seems the most cost effective since I have an X50 car, but I'm still open for arguments to go with A28s or A30s or other turbos)
- Larger intercoolers (maybe Forge, ETS, or 911Tuning)
- Injectors (what rate is recommended? 750cc, 850cc, 1100cc?)
- Clutch
- K24/20s (seems the most cost effective since I have an X50 car, but I'm still open for arguments to go with A28s or A30s or other turbos)
- Larger intercoolers (maybe Forge, ETS, or 911Tuning)
- Injectors (what rate is recommended? 750cc, 850cc, 1100cc?)
- Clutch
#26
Thanks guys! So I'm thinking ~550AWHP/600+FT/LBs is a bit more realistic for now. So right now I'm considering:
- K24/20s (seems the most cost effective since I have an X50 car, but I'm still open for arguments to go with A28s or A30s or other turbos)
- Larger intercoolers (maybe Forge, ETS, or 911Tuning)
- Injectors (what rate is recommended? 750cc, 850cc, 1100cc?)
- Clutch
- K24/20s (seems the most cost effective since I have an X50 car, but I'm still open for arguments to go with A28s or A30s or other turbos)
- Larger intercoolers (maybe Forge, ETS, or 911Tuning)
- Injectors (what rate is recommended? 750cc, 850cc, 1100cc?)
- Clutch
Injectors are not the issue. Flow/volume is
Markski
#27
How many miles are on your car/turbos? Unless it's really high (50k minimum, and really 75k+), then I'd stick with just upgrading the current turbos to the hybrid K24/18g setup, which you'll see mentioned in my build thread and can search for more info about. You mention a K24/20g setup, but I'm not sure where you came up with that versus the 18g option?
There are a few high quality ICs out there. The ones you mentioned are all pretty well known, probably the Forge and 911tuning ones more than ETS. You want to make sure you get ones with larger merge inlets/outlets (which are plastic or aluminum) and not just larger cores, and you'll definitely want the larger 2.5" IC piping (I think mine are the 911tuning ones?) to go along with them and increase the airflow.
You really need to talk to your tuner about what injectors to get. You don't need to go up to 1100 IMHO, but I couldn't tell you what he's going to recommend between the 750 or 850 (or maybe something else entirely).
My clutch setup has been excellent, though it's definitely a lot harder to drive than stock. I removed the accumulator though too and went to basically a full GT2 setup but with a stronger custom pressure plate, better disc, and single mass LWFW. It's the Clutchmasters FX300 setup which I know a bunch of guys on here run in cars like mine and higher HP vehicles too. It's not the "stock" FX300 setup though but instead a Porsche 996TT-specific setup that has a custom, higher clamping force pressure plate than you'll get if you just order the regular old FX300. I can't remember the name of the guy who's the expert there but you'll want to talk to him and make sure you get this setup and not the "stock" one. I believe I was one of the earliest people to use this setup (in my build thread you can see a bunch of people asking for my feedback), and now have probably driven more miles than just about anybody else with it, and I'm very happy.
Are you going to just upgrade the disc/pressure plate? LWFW? I didn't like how light the clutch was and thought the feel of it didn't at all match a Turbo, so that's why I went to the GT2 setup. I actually have the first prototype conversion kit from Vivid Racing, which removes the accumulator/slave. I also had them remove the return spring from the pedal, which doesn't make a huge difference when you remove the accumulator/slave, but you can just remove the spring. I'd recommend while you have your current setup you do this to see how you like it. The spring is attached to the clutch pedal arm under the dash so it's really easy to disconnect/reconnect it. What's your budget for all of this? Things are starting to add up...
There are a few high quality ICs out there. The ones you mentioned are all pretty well known, probably the Forge and 911tuning ones more than ETS. You want to make sure you get ones with larger merge inlets/outlets (which are plastic or aluminum) and not just larger cores, and you'll definitely want the larger 2.5" IC piping (I think mine are the 911tuning ones?) to go along with them and increase the airflow.
You really need to talk to your tuner about what injectors to get. You don't need to go up to 1100 IMHO, but I couldn't tell you what he's going to recommend between the 750 or 850 (or maybe something else entirely).
My clutch setup has been excellent, though it's definitely a lot harder to drive than stock. I removed the accumulator though too and went to basically a full GT2 setup but with a stronger custom pressure plate, better disc, and single mass LWFW. It's the Clutchmasters FX300 setup which I know a bunch of guys on here run in cars like mine and higher HP vehicles too. It's not the "stock" FX300 setup though but instead a Porsche 996TT-specific setup that has a custom, higher clamping force pressure plate than you'll get if you just order the regular old FX300. I can't remember the name of the guy who's the expert there but you'll want to talk to him and make sure you get this setup and not the "stock" one. I believe I was one of the earliest people to use this setup (in my build thread you can see a bunch of people asking for my feedback), and now have probably driven more miles than just about anybody else with it, and I'm very happy.
Are you going to just upgrade the disc/pressure plate? LWFW? I didn't like how light the clutch was and thought the feel of it didn't at all match a Turbo, so that's why I went to the GT2 setup. I actually have the first prototype conversion kit from Vivid Racing, which removes the accumulator/slave. I also had them remove the return spring from the pedal, which doesn't make a huge difference when you remove the accumulator/slave, but you can just remove the spring. I'd recommend while you have your current setup you do this to see how you like it. The spring is attached to the clutch pedal arm under the dash so it's really easy to disconnect/reconnect it. What's your budget for all of this? Things are starting to add up...
Last edited by teflon_jones; 02-06-2014 at 01:44 PM.
#29
How many miles are on your car/turbos? Unless it's really high (50k minimum, and really 75k+), then I'd stick with just upgrading the current turbos to the hybrid K24/18g setup, which you'll see mentioned in my build thread and can search for more info about. You mention a K24/20g setup, but I'm not sure where you came up with that versus the 18g option?
#30
Awesome, thanks for the input! I haven't had the injector conversation yet, but as with most things I trust the tuner.
The car + oem turbos have 46,000 miles on them. The route of 20g was recommended by my tuner as it'll make equal or more power than k24/18s while running slightly less boost.
The car + oem turbos have 46,000 miles on them. The route of 20g was recommended by my tuner as it'll make equal or more power than k24/18s while running slightly less boost.