I started this thread to do a complete detail of the cost associated with a clutch replacement and 2nd gear pop-out transmission rebuild. Two weeks ago on my way home my clutch slipped on a 4th gear pull and in 5th gear on full boost so I drove it home and parked it. I called my mechanic to schedule an appointment. Last year I replaced the slave and accumulator so I knew this time it needed a new clutch. Rewind back 2 years ago on my way home on a cool night in 2nd gear around 20mph it pop-out of gear on deceleration (more like slid out was not harsh at all) I went to replicate it doing 2nd gear pulls and the 15th pull it pop-out again around 15mph on deceleration. The next day I had my mechanic drain my transmission oil and he said it looked brand new with zero medal shavings (keep in mind this was original 2001 factory tranny oil) so we installed the Gbox detent hoping I caught it in time. After 2000 miles it pop-out again even though it was engaging in every gear deeper after detent installed. So I decided to live with it until my clutch needed replacement so I didn't pay double labor. Anytime I was in 2nd gear I would just hold it lightly in place and I never had a problem for 10,000 miles. I bought my car 5 years ago with 11,000 miles I had a PPI done and the only thing needed was a new battery & accumulator. At 13,000 miles(2009) I flashed my car with Softronic and in the back of my head I wondered how many more miles I would get out of my stock clutch (keep in mind I don't abuse my car) I have 430whp & 500whp torque. So I got 25,500 miles out of my stock clutch with a tune & exhaust. I now have 38,513 miles on my car currently. This weekend my mechanic is going to drop my engine and transmission he will be shipping my transmission to CO to be rebuilt I was quoted $2500-$3500 ($400-$500 for shipping)to rebuild which consist of new output shaft seals, differentials seals, new operating sleeve, new dog ring, new synchronizers, new idler gear laser cut.


Parts ordered:

Awe Tunning 2.5 Sachs Clutch Kit ($1635)
New Oem 997 Transmission mount ($188)
New Fly Wheel Bolts ($27)
New Pressure Bolts ($29)
New Rear Main Seal ($30.43 mise well Transmission will be out)
New Clutch Release bearing ($78)
Oem 997 Engine mounts ( $318.44)
Pinning all Coolant lines 7 hours labor ($560)
Coolant 1.5 gallons ($71)
Distilled Water 1.5 gallons ($2.63)
New Coolant Hoses/o-rings ($249.60)
New Coolant expansion tank ($133.22)
New plugs ($47 will check coil packs if any cracks will replace if needed)
New Water Pump ($307.42)
New Serpentine belt ($84.04)
New Fuel Filter ($39.41)
Oem Dual Mass Flywheel (mechanic said was in excellent shape)
Gear Oil 75w-90 synthetic Liqui Moly 5 liters ($90)

Anything else you guys can think of that I am forgetting?

I don't think I will get my car back until June but I will update as the parts are replaced and cost as well with pictures I hope to keep this under $8000 for everything

 

right on target with your parts and $ estimate. a simple refresh should be about 3k then your replacing 1/2 and the synchros etc, so 3-4000 is about right. but this is exactly an opportune time to put in an lsd or consider the wavetrac as i wound up going with. it has immeasurably transformed the car and for the driving id i see it as completely essential now. i was in the same boat needing an rms and then my bearings went. though wasn't dealing with 2nd gear pop. that was the last car

so,.. you're not *forgetting* anything as such, but you really should give this lsd or TBD lsd some thought, if you haven't already. depending on how/where you drive and goals for the car etc. but good luck with your rebuild, it's pretty straightforward for the CO gearbox shops by now lol

ADD: btw before committing to shipping to CO? i would give roger at CA motorsports in AZ a call first. just sayin...

 

Nice! I need to orders a clutch kit and have my rebuilt too.. have you thought about doing a LSD since the transmission is being rebuilt?

 

I read up on the wavetrac that was mentioned looks like a nice way to go.

 

its about 1800$ but its a great time to replace the wiring harness. the car is 10+ yrs old and the harness just deteriorates with time. also every coolant hose you can get your hands on should be replaced. i had engine builders supply build me a gasket kit for welding the coolant lines and it was very cost effective ( btw its just me but i prefer welding to pinning.)

also a good time to have your injectors either replaced (60 lbs or 72 lbs and retune ) or have the oem injectors sonic cleaned and inspected.
anything you can't get to with the motor in the car should be addressed

 

Thanks I will give Roger a call. I thought about lsd a while back but I only street drive my car I never get to its limits on the street. I am just replacing the RMS seal because its only $30 but I have never had a problem just doing preventive maintenance since engine will be out.

 

Thanks I was going to weld my coolant lines but my mechanic just had a GT3 welded and it still ended up with pin hole leaks. I was wondering if the coolant hoses should be replaced or not? My Porsche mechanic says since I don't track my car that pinning my oem hoses would be a good option. How long do oem coolant hoses last anyway? Injectors are good idea tho!

 

my rms was leaking ( stage 2 ) and it annoyed me for almost a year so that's what got me started down my recent g'box rebuild, which included clutch too and since my driving style and conditions really amplified the shortcomings of the "no load" situation when running rwd without some kind of lsd, i had to do it. again, i was right where you are are in terms of "what to do next ". but i agree with you completely the benefits of any lsd would not be readily apparent in any normal street driving.

you know what you're doing, and i would second the suggestion to reach out to ca motorsports. it'd be a good idea. they may even be driving distance? i would be mindful of their "turn time" though. i'd ask that up front. all else will be in line with what you've been told, sounds like. again... GL!

 

like any rubber hose it lasts until it collapses or breaks. cheap and easy to replace as long as the motor is out.

pinning will keep the fitting from coming out but if the glue seal breaks it won't keep it from leaking. mine were welded and of all 8 fittings a single pinhole was found when tested. its all about the prep work on the parts and fittings and the quality of the welder. mine was very good at what he does

 

I would slap aftermarket flywheel as well

 

May have a look at your pinion bearing while you're in there. I understand they can be problematic.

 

Lol. So, if you replace everything that is said in this thread, you should just sell it and buy a 997 turbo

 

I was thinking about it but any extra drive-train noise drives me crazy I actually like the oem dual mass setup.

 

Thanks for the suggestion will have my mechanic take a look!

 

Lol I love my car plan to keep it forever that's why I am addressing anything that could go wrong in the near future that said I would still have to throw another $10000 or $15000 for the right 997TT not worth it to me at this point.