I agree with the above that you do not need to buy dog ones, or sways or any other crap. Been down this road recently. Get an alignment and set the rear tires to +20-25 toe with as little as camber as possible. Toe makes these cars feel like ****, handle like a junker and destroy tires. A simple alignment makes life better

 

1st things first. After the springs did you get an alignment? What was it set to?

 

Toe arms with bump steer correction, and everything else you'd need, from Europe:

http://www.9products.com/996997/products

 

Wow thanks for all the help and info guys!

I will definitely look into getting the proper parts to sort the problem out asap.

Interesting though...I looked at the spec sheet of the last wheel alignment done and everything except for the rear camber is within spec! Including the Toe??

 

I aligned to spec as well and ate a new set of tires in 3000 miles and the car felt horrible. Trust me. +.25 toe each side on rear.

 

Thanks for the info! Do you mean .25 INCHES Positive Toe (Inward) ?

 

@ VGLNTE1, stock spec with +.25 toe out each side?

 

.25 each side. So .50 total Positive. Iwas going through tire after tire and a member here contacted me and he was nice enough to talk to me on the phone for a while. These cars squat so hard and with all that weight the wheels just toe out and go negative and eat them. Adding a bunch of positive will set them straight when under load. I have 3 times the miles on mine now and show perfect wear and it handles so much better.

 

Degrees

 

The member who helped me was "engine guy". Very helpful

 

don't try to re-invent the wheel alignment here lol

the spec sets from the factory that should help for your lowered car are ROW TURBO spec or GT2/ X73: if i'm not mistaken, the ROW spec for 96turbo is a bit lower in height than US model. below is the x73 set similar to the gt2 set. it'll help. along with all the other suggestions of course. you'll have to decipher all the #'s with the tech but it's pretty straightforward stuff. alternately most/all alignment computers have the gt2/X73 alignments specs in their database. ask there and begin with those. NOT the "stock" numbers. i stand by my earlier suggestion(s),.. and good luck.


X73 alignment specifications. similar to gt2(?) or use those as well.
these *should* be accurate and there are numerous threads here, wherein i found these numbers. search if you need more.

ps. many say zero toe front. a smidgen lol.. rear.

FRONT:
Front Toe Unpressed (total) = +5' +/- 5'
Toe difference angle @ 20D lock = -1D50' +/- 30'
Camber = -45' +/- 15' with a max difference left to right of 20'
Caster = 8D +/- 30' with a max difference left to right of 40'

REAR:

Rear toe per wheel = +10' +/- 5' with a max difference left to right of 10'
Camber = -1D40' +/- 15' with a max difference left to right of 15'

 

Great info, thanks for sharing.
Would you recommend this for standard suspension, I have a 996TT 2003.

 

i'm out of my depth on the topic as to what's *best*? so all i can add at this point, ( i'm not in any way particularly knowledgeable on the topic, so i only know from my cars ) but for a lowered car, the x73/gt2 alignment specs as written from porsche are as good a baseline as one can get. there are a myriad number of ways to fine tune from there, depending upon driving style, conditions, and what best suits the driver. but for most +/- 40mm or 1.5-2 inch drops? the gt2/x73 #'s will work perfectly.

there is little doubt though, that a lowered car that has not been aligned to compensate, will not handle optimally at all, and will exponentially increase its appetite for rubber lol

 

I ran to spec. Trashed tires and still felt horrible

 

I am by no means an expert, but engine guy seemed to be. Maybe send him a pm and he can give some advice