Protomotive at it again
#106
Originally posted by ChrisChow
Sharkster-
Pakisho-
Let's go 350Z hunting on Saturday!! Alexander will be back from Las Vegas on Friday and he's bringing the Turbo
Sharkster-
Pakisho-
Let's go 350Z hunting on Saturday!! Alexander will be back from Las Vegas on Friday and he's bringing the Turbo
Last edited by sharkster; 10-14-2005 at 07:45 PM.
#111
Tyson,
It would be interesting to know what that Blue car would have run at a real quarter mile track. I wonder if there is alot of difference in a radar gun versus the quarter mile track.
I was watching Monster Garage and they stripped out an old VW Bug and put in a built VW motor with a turbo. It ran 10.5 out of the box! Only weighed like 1500 lbs.
It would be interesting to know what that Blue car would have run at a real quarter mile track. I wonder if there is alot of difference in a radar gun versus the quarter mile track.
I was watching Monster Garage and they stripped out an old VW Bug and put in a built VW motor with a turbo. It ran 10.5 out of the box! Only weighed like 1500 lbs.
#112
car sounds awesome. sorry if i missed anything, but when you say the key is port and valve work, what exactly are we talking about? porting stock heads, upgraded gt3 (cup or gt3r's?) etc? i was am the impression that using variants of the gt3 heads requires much more extensive modifications, big valves and new camshafts, etc? whatever the modifications, the car makes amazing power at such low boost without building up the internals or changing camshafts.
Last edited by KompressorKev; 10-15-2005 at 01:13 AM.
#113
Kevin
There is no need to go with the GT3 heads to get good efficiency unless you are really after the last fraction of hp and breathing, yes you can, and it might be better, but I think an overkill. A good polishing job, and 3 angle valve seat job, guides, springs, etc.. should be enough. On these turbocharged engines you can compensate for the ulitmate in head work with better programming on the dyno bench. I know my engine does not have extensive head mods (as far as porting or polishing) and I have a very decent efficiency for an air cooled engine. Bigger valves are not always good. Todd dyno'ed 705hp at 1.1 Bar on the engine dyno, running on the rich side since it is a cooling need for where I live. Internals would not make much difference either to performance (not longevity), these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
As someone said before, the secret is in the way things are balanced and work together, not against each other, the best of each does not make the best overall, it is a misconception, and the wizzard programming that goes with it is the icing on the cake. I have stock ignition and coils (twin-plug) BTW, it gave the result needed, why complicate things?
There is no need to go with the GT3 heads to get good efficiency unless you are really after the last fraction of hp and breathing, yes you can, and it might be better, but I think an overkill. A good polishing job, and 3 angle valve seat job, guides, springs, etc.. should be enough. On these turbocharged engines you can compensate for the ulitmate in head work with better programming on the dyno bench. I know my engine does not have extensive head mods (as far as porting or polishing) and I have a very decent efficiency for an air cooled engine. Bigger valves are not always good. Todd dyno'ed 705hp at 1.1 Bar on the engine dyno, running on the rich side since it is a cooling need for where I live. Internals would not make much difference either to performance (not longevity), these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
As someone said before, the secret is in the way things are balanced and work together, not against each other, the best of each does not make the best overall, it is a misconception, and the wizzard programming that goes with it is the icing on the cake. I have stock ignition and coils (twin-plug) BTW, it gave the result needed, why complicate things?
#115
Originally posted by Jean
these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
#116
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 10's in the 1/4
Originally posted by Jean
..
Check your trap speeds, you will know. Getting into the 10's is very difficult, but with 600hp and a good driver, you might get there, the devil is in the details.
..
..
Check your trap speeds, you will know. Getting into the 10's is very difficult, but with 600hp and a good driver, you might get there, the devil is in the details.
..
#117
Originally posted by PV996TT
Some information on the RUF 3.8TT / 650HP. It dyno`ed 720 hp at 1.1 bar on the engine dyno and are running 11 s / 134 mph on the 1/4 mile.
Peter
Some information on the RUF 3.8TT / 650HP. It dyno`ed 720 hp at 1.1 bar on the engine dyno and are running 11 s / 134 mph on the 1/4 mile.
Peter
With this kind of trap speed and knowing Ruf's flat torque curve, it should be more than capable of 10's with the right driver.
#118
Originally posted by Jean
Kevin
There is no need to go with the GT3 heads to get good efficiency unless you are really after the last fraction of hp and breathing, yes you can, and it might be better, but I think an overkill. A good polishing job, and 3 angle valve seat job, guides, springs, etc.. should be enough. On these turbocharged engines you can compensate for the ulitmate in head work with better programming on the dyno bench. I know my engine does not have extensive head mods (as far as porting or polishing) and I have a very decent efficiency for an air cooled engine. Bigger valves are not always good. Todd dyno'ed 705hp at 1.1 Bar on the engine dyno, running on the rich side since it is a cooling need for where I live. Internals would not make much difference either to performance (not longevity), these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
As someone said before, the secret is in the way things are balanced and work together, not against each other, the best of each does not make the best overall, it is a misconception, and the wizzard programming that goes with it is the icing on the cake. I have stock ignition and coils (twin-plug) BTW, it gave the result needed, why complicate things?
Kevin
There is no need to go with the GT3 heads to get good efficiency unless you are really after the last fraction of hp and breathing, yes you can, and it might be better, but I think an overkill. A good polishing job, and 3 angle valve seat job, guides, springs, etc.. should be enough. On these turbocharged engines you can compensate for the ulitmate in head work with better programming on the dyno bench. I know my engine does not have extensive head mods (as far as porting or polishing) and I have a very decent efficiency for an air cooled engine. Bigger valves are not always good. Todd dyno'ed 705hp at 1.1 Bar on the engine dyno, running on the rich side since it is a cooling need for where I live. Internals would not make much difference either to performance (not longevity), these are not race engines, cross drilling, knife edging, etc.. are an overkill IMO, the proof lies in the numbers.
As someone said before, the secret is in the way things are balanced and work together, not against each other, the best of each does not make the best overall, it is a misconception, and the wizzard programming that goes with it is the icing on the cake. I have stock ignition and coils (twin-plug) BTW, it gave the result needed, why complicate things?
btw, i always heard ruf was conservative but wow that's over 10% underestimate. i suspected that the RUF 550 made close to 600 and the Nardo more like 650, so this seems about right. well i guess they do say the RUF horsies are a bigger breed...i wonder what kinda dyno - maha, dynojet, engine dyno? protomotive and ruf - quality tuning.