Worked as described- very happy with this cheap DIY, car I much smoother already.

 

Add another satisfied customer to the list. This pretty much eliminated the parking lot stuttering I was getting at low RPMs. Car is much more drivable now.

 

This is exactley what I am looking for. However, I am unable to locate the MAF.. and the pictures that show me where to take the safety screws out are not up-loading. Where can I find a diagram that shows me loaction of MAF and where the screws are.

Thanks

 

Found IT !

 

Cleaned the MAF and put in new K&N air filter. Check engine light still on and after car warmed up, started to idle a little high again. Guess next step is to buy new MAF. Any recommendations on where to oeder from ?

 

bumping an old thread, has anyone used the CRC maf cleaner? or should I stick to the electrical cleaner

 

i have a couple of cans of this product, I think it is essentially electronic cleaner relabeled as MAF cleaner. I will have to look at product content but I highly doubt there is a miracle new chemical blend out there for 5 bucks

 

Does anyone know a way to "test" a maf sensor to see if it had truely gone bad? Voltage meter, resistance, etc... ?

 

See this:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...af-basic-test/

 

I found this also in a search...

After poking around I figured the only thing you need is a volt meter. $9 at Harbor Freight for any of you that don't already stock one. Set it to 20V DC as you need to measure DC current from the MAF.

This should be the first step that you do before you take the MAF out to clean it as it will set a benchmark on improvement. It should also help you diagnose if your MAF is taking a dump on you.


1. Fire up your car and bring it up to operating temperature= when oil level checking is enabled

2. Turn off the car

3. Pop the engine cover

4. Locate the MAF

5. The maf Connector har a rubber boot on it to keep the moisture out, gently peel it off, don't be scared.

6. Exposed will be 4 wires coming out of 5 possible terminals on the connector. If you gt close to it you'll notice they are numbered. #1 is not used.

7. We will only be concerened with #5.

8. Fire up your Volt Meter and hook up the Black probe to the ground and the red one stick into the #5. There is a little blue (seal) around the wire that you can stick the needle of the probe into to get a reading, dont worry you will not cause any damage if gentle, just watch the voltmeter to see if you get a reading. With the ignition on and engine off you should get around 0.9V-1.1V. I was getting 1.17V which was on the high end but not throwinng the ABS/PSM light on. If it is more than 1.19V that than you are probably getting more codes than P0172-P0175.

9. With the volt meter turned connected turn on the car. (It is important that the car is warmed up to operating temperature). You should get approx 1.4V. If not, your MAF is contaminated or fried.

10. Write down the results for both the car on and off. Mine were:

a. Ignition On Engine Off= 1.17V

b. Car Running = 1.68V (way too high)

11. Turn off the car and use the security torx to remove the maf. You don't have to remove the whole Air Filter assembly, but I did as I wanted to inspect what kind off air filter I had. To my surprise I had a BMC(sp) which is like the K&N. ( I already have a paperfilter on order as I never thrusted these to keep the contaminanst out of the engine, I always figured that if they were the next best think to sliced bread how come they don't come stock on high performance cars or cars looking to increase fuel economy) Anyway, past the MAF there is a rubber sleeve that connects the Air Filter Housing to the intake duct. Holly cow, that thing was so greasy that I had to wipe it off.( Back in a day when cars had PCV valves hooked up back to the throttle bodies they weren't as greasy as this) I used two papertowels to wipe off the filter from the excessive grease. I honestly think that the problem with the K&N and BMC filter is the fact that people soak them with the oil spray like they're gonna fry eggs on them. I suppose that the only reason for the oil is to keep the cloth filter fibers from drying out and getting sucked into the engine like the junk you clean out of your clothes dryer every time you do laundry. So for you BMC and K&N junkies, keep the oil to the minimum. A little goes a long way.

12. Spray the MAF, liberally, with the electronics cleaner. The mirror surface along with all the holes. I didn't use any q-tips or any force, just the spray. I also sprayed the harness connector.

13. Let it air dry for an hour or to speed things up blow it off gently with compressed air. ( I didn't blow too hard, just in case)

14. Assemble, start the car, let it warm um again and mearure it up. Mine was right on the money after the cleaning:

a. Ignition On Engine Off = 1.01V

b. Car Running = 1.46V

Huge difference. I took it for a spin and like heaven and earth. I will report tommorow if the CEL comes back and will keep this updated for a month to see if it comes back.

 

If you are a renntech subscriber : http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...af-basic-test/

 

Hi All,

I just went through a wonky idle and finally fixed it with a new MAF. I did find a couple small air leaks through pressure tests which I fixed. I had cleaned the MAF with electronics cleaner, but it didn't make any difference I also completely cleaned the throttle body (twice). I did the electrical test and got 0.98V cold and 1.3V hot, so within spec. The car has close to 50K and I think it was the original part. Anyway, The one I got off Amazon even had the Porsche part number and did the trick.

Just another data point...

Franny

 

Thanks much for the post. I was experiencing low speed hesitation and surging. Clean the MAF as described and the surging is gone and the throttle response is improved. Thanks again.

 

TIA

 

That is same part number (996-606-124-00) shown by Pelican Parts so I would say that it is the correct part. Did you try cleaning your existing one with electronics cleaner, not carb cleaner, first?