possibly you were unaware that in addition to the 2 t20's you have to squeeze the button(s) on the clip while pulling upward to release it from the housing. so it might not be jammed! it's under the rubber bit ( iirc? ). going in, it just "snaps" into place.

 

Seeing the MAF sensor seems to be merely a few diodes and seems to short out on any rev limiter situation has anyone just tried grounding the filter unit using some cable wires to the rear chassis ground ?

 

Yeah I knew about the clip, mine was jammed pretty good

 

There is more than just a few diodes.

 

Literal

 

holy sh*t lol. i always thought the diode was just the exposed one on on the other side :roll eyes: DOH!

well it goes a long way toward explaining why the car runs so badly when they're fried!

 

Do the MAFs in these cars go bad frequently? I got the dreaded PSM/ABS failure lights after driving the car hard. I replaced the MAF with a 'gently used' MAF and still occasionally get those two lights.

Very annoying really considering these cars cost $120K+ when new.

 

^ i wouldn't say they fail "frequently" at all. but i can confirm that they can go bad if you bounce off the limiter. it has to do with increased voltage spikes and can burn them up fast.

other than that, some folks will never have to mess with them during their ownership. the trouble is they can fail intermittently and the car will have all kinds of symptoms ( abs/psm cels/idle hunting/ stutters etc.. ) which wouldn't ordinarily/necessarily lead one to suspect maf failure as the cause.

the codes though, will usually lead to the maf as the source

 

Thanks for the input.

My mechanic had been driving the car hard and I'm fairly certain he induced the issue without thinking about it.

I'm probably going to throw a hitachi MAF in there and forget about it.

 

i briefly considered that too. but that involves modding the ypipe/piping and/or tune? and stuff and i don't want anything visibly different if i can help it.

the only option other than oem i would consider would be the proto mafless tune and any/all that goes with it.

 

I would offer, the community does not really understand why the MAF's fail...there are numerous theories, but essentially what happens is air flowing over the "sensor" side (wire) of the MAF creating a temperature and that temperature is compared with the temperature on the other side (of the MAF) to determine theoretically the air mass....which of course may be a necessary input to the ECU to create the appropriate air/fuel mixture for proper combustion.

Now if the air flow is disrupted, contaminated, perturbed, etc. (for lots of reasons...leaks, dirty filters, strange shaped intakes), there could be spikes in the temperature differential resulting in electrical signal spikes and "fried" MAFs. Once fried they can't be saved.

 

^ that's for sure.

 

When the car hits the limiter I am sure there is a power surge as power is cut and the MAF voltage spikes and blows the thing... then again who the eff knows... I will put in my new MAf and drive the car str8 to Tims for a mafless and E85 tune,


then I can stop messing around

 

that's right.

if you're going mafless moving forward? i'd skip putting the new one in!

 

I paid $180 for it and I have to drive 60 miles to Tim... either that or tow the thing which in NY will be a lot more... and the car is not going 60 miles any time soon without a MAF and its current tune

:-)