Copper doesn't require a receiver groove in the head as its softer, and I've always used copper on my builds without issue so until it lets me down, ill keep doing it

 

Following, looking forward to it!

 

i thought there was a groove in the picture. so its laying on top? how do you ensure it doesn't move on install? wasn't questioning whether it is better or worse just wondering why you chose that material

 

Serious build and thread straight to the point! This thread is going places.

 

Sorry didn't mean to come off as defensive

The groove was cut by LA Sleeve on request. Its a .02 deep groove and I used .03 wire. Its held in press-fit. I machined a aluminum hat to press it in evenly.

 

Subscribed.......love me a good build thread.

 

Looks like fun!

 

ok iwasnt thinking while i was looking. groove in the block but not in the head right?

 

Correct, sleeves grooved, not head.

 

guessing your not in tn so i could watch this build come together!

 

Sorry, i'm, in Vegas

 

Not being critical just curious. From the pic it doesn't look like the cylinders have been honed, or at least there doesn't appear to be any crosshatching. Also I see what appears to look like a residual stain from the top ring near the upper part of the center cylinder.

My comment is based from working with non-plated iron liners. If these are plated, I understand the finish, still wondering the stain?

Looks like a fun project, keep the pics coming of the build.

 

Honestly not trying to be confrontational but was the wire malleable or did you flame anneal it? I take it you want it soft to seal and conform to any irregularities. Did you file to match butt the ends similar to what you might do on a piston ring? I do this type of stuff too and there is so little detailed tech discussion on these things I find it interesting.

I may have answered my own question, copper may come in contact with a soft fire ring on the head gasket not needing soft copper? Maybe I'm thinking too much, lol.

Another thing, what kind of top ring gap did you allow? Curious if you gave a bit more for a boosted motor and a built one at that. Thanks!

 

Never fear cross hatch is here The scar is wd40 that I didn't wipe away

And yes, you do try your best to butt the copper rings against each other, there is a technique used to install them where by they meet with a little pressure against the ends. I double o-ringed these so the butt joint is less crucial.

Top ring gap is 0.020, 2nd ring .026, piston to wall is around .00375 (and to anyone who has something negative to say about this, i'll happily blow my **** up and learn from it)

 

since i haven't ever seen the rings outside the engine are these # custom by you or a normal spec gap for the engine? and don't blow it up! i want to see what you end up with power wise

since this isn't a diy for the novice are you a shop tech or just crazy about doing your own work and experienced with porsches?