Short shifter and general shifting/clutch question
#1
Short shifter and general shifting/clutch question
I posted this in a different thread, but figured I'd take a shot at a broader audience:
What is a short shifter? What is it people don't like about the regular TT shifter? How hard is it to get a short shifter?
I am a new TT owner and even though I've driven plenty of stick before, I find, how do I put this, that I suck getting into first gear on my new TT. I stall, or rev too much. The clutch seems very long to me. I'm not sure I'm talking about the same things as you guys (re: why you'd get a short shifter), but it sounds like it...
Thanks for the help. Any advice appreciated.
What is a short shifter? What is it people don't like about the regular TT shifter? How hard is it to get a short shifter?
I am a new TT owner and even though I've driven plenty of stick before, I find, how do I put this, that I suck getting into first gear on my new TT. I stall, or rev too much. The clutch seems very long to me. I'm not sure I'm talking about the same things as you guys (re: why you'd get a short shifter), but it sounds like it...
Thanks for the help. Any advice appreciated.
#2
Most people find the throws very long in the TT. The short shifter shortens the shifts to each gear. It has nothing to do with the clutch. A couple people make then the most common being B&M as well as techart and RUf. Techart mounts under the car and B&M mounts up top. You also have the option of doing both which is what I have and the thows are very short.
#4
Originally posted by Duane
Most people find the throws very long in the TT. The short shifter shortens the shifts to each gear. It has nothing to do with the clutch. A couple people make then the most common being B&M as well as techart and RUf. Techart mounts under the car and B&M mounts up top. You also have the option of doing both which is what I have and the thows are very short.
Most people find the throws very long in the TT. The short shifter shortens the shifts to each gear. It has nothing to do with the clutch. A couple people make then the most common being B&M as well as techart and RUf. Techart mounts under the car and B&M mounts up top. You also have the option of doing both which is what I have and the thows are very short.
Any guesses why I suck so bad then? I would be willing to admit to just sucking in general, but I'm fine on many other manual cars. But, on my TT, I'm having trouble rolling smoothly into first gear from a stop (either I stall or buck/rev too much)...
#6
Originally posted by msindi
Thats probably cause the Porsche clutch is so much lighter than other sports cars...You'll get the hang of it in no time...Best way is to drive the thing a lot
Thats probably cause the Porsche clutch is so much lighter than other sports cars...You'll get the hang of it in no time...Best way is to drive the thing a lot
#7
means that the pedal does not require as much effort as ither cars like the M5 etc...therefore easier to stall when letting off...
Trending Topics
#8
The latest I got from Porsche is not very encouraging regarding the tranny issues.
What they are doing is asessing each situation accordingly depending on mileage, year of car, stick or tip. They are now authorizing dealers to try and REPAIR the transmissions in lew of being alot cheaper for them to handle this problem.
Personally, I think that is unaceptable ! Yes, the price ranges for the trannies do vary from 10 to 19k. Yeah, but who cares. take care of the issue and keep customer happy. Also, the replacement units, if you are lucky to get one, are REBUILT ONLY.
A friend of mine had his repaired the first time at the dealer as per Porsche . Of course a week later, same problem again. My friend needless to say, has run out of patience with this issue and demanded the owner of the dealership call a Porsche rep to resolve this lunicy.
I will find out today the outcome of the meeting and will post.
Theo
What they are doing is asessing each situation accordingly depending on mileage, year of car, stick or tip. They are now authorizing dealers to try and REPAIR the transmissions in lew of being alot cheaper for them to handle this problem.
Personally, I think that is unaceptable ! Yes, the price ranges for the trannies do vary from 10 to 19k. Yeah, but who cares. take care of the issue and keep customer happy. Also, the replacement units, if you are lucky to get one, are REBUILT ONLY.
A friend of mine had his repaired the first time at the dealer as per Porsche . Of course a week later, same problem again. My friend needless to say, has run out of patience with this issue and demanded the owner of the dealership call a Porsche rep to resolve this lunicy.
I will find out today the outcome of the meeting and will post.
Theo
#9
The clutch/stalling issue is three fold. The clutch has too much assist giving it very little feel. The rotational mass of the car is low (flywheel and only 6 cylinders) leaving the relatively heavy car with little resrve torque for smooth launches. And the clutch contact point is unusually high.
#10
Originally posted by ColorChange
The clutch/stalling issue is three fold. The clutch has too much assist giving it very little feel. The rotational mass of the car is low (flywheel and only 6 cylinders) leaving the relatively heavy car with little resrve torque for smooth launches. And the clutch contact point is unusually high.
The clutch/stalling issue is three fold. The clutch has too much assist giving it very little feel. The rotational mass of the car is low (flywheel and only 6 cylinders) leaving the relatively heavy car with little resrve torque for smooth launches. And the clutch contact point is unusually high.
Thanks.
#11
color...
interesting points...I've wondered why the clutch is difficult to modulate at times. I recently drove a 1st generation GT3 and the clutch has a much better feel as it isn't as assisted. I do like the ligher clutch, but at the same time, some of the feel has been removed.
interesting points...I've wondered why the clutch is difficult to modulate at times. I recently drove a 1st generation GT3 and the clutch has a much better feel as it isn't as assisted. I do like the ligher clutch, but at the same time, some of the feel has been removed.
#12
Regarding the clutch ...I'd just add that it's not the "Porsche clutch" that's light but rather the Turbo996 clutch thats light. Turbo996 is far lighter then 986, than the 996, than the 993. For whatever reason, Porsche dialed in alot of power assist on the 996TT.
Personally, it's one of the things (along with less than ideal throttle blip responce) that I have adapted to as idiosyncrasies of the beast.
However, if there was an easy way to address either, personally I'd have done it a couple yrs ago.
Personally, it's one of the things (along with less than ideal throttle blip responce) that I have adapted to as idiosyncrasies of the beast.
However, if there was an easy way to address either, personally I'd have done it a couple yrs ago.
#14
My best recomendation is drive it and you'll get used to it. I have incredible adaptation to do comin from my Countach that drives like a truck to an overassisted Pcar. I still have troulble occasionaly and would really like to drop some assist.
#15
Originally posted by Duane
I just installed Sachs racing clutch and it definatly feels firmer than the stock one.
I just installed Sachs racing clutch and it definatly feels firmer than the stock one.
I went with the Sachs High Performance motorsport plate & disc (full face w/organic lining) and passed on the race 'puck' disc as my car is driven off-track alot. Sachs HP Motorsport plate & disc has more of an 'edge' on engagement than OE (but I've been told the Race clutch requires considerably more finesse....ie. fairly small window of engagement).