"Ignition Key Not Removed" Error on Dash
#1
"Ignition Key Not Removed" Error on Dash
"Ignition Key Not Removed" Error on Dash
I had just replaced a battery and once completed and testing i am getting this error. See pic attached.
I go to test start the car and all is great then i turn off the engine and remove the key and exit the car and i get the bell ringing and the warning that my key is still in the ignition.I also notice my Key Fob cannot lock or unlock the car nor open the front Lid. I do observe however that when i activate the key i see the sensor on the dash reacting to it.
Furthermore the steering wheel lock does not lock the steering wheel when i remove the key.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks in advance........Geno
I had just replaced a battery and once completed and testing i am getting this error. See pic attached.
I go to test start the car and all is great then i turn off the engine and remove the key and exit the car and i get the bell ringing and the warning that my key is still in the ignition.I also notice my Key Fob cannot lock or unlock the car nor open the front Lid. I do observe however that when i activate the key i see the sensor on the dash reacting to it.
Furthermore the steering wheel lock does not lock the steering wheel when i remove the key.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks in advance........Geno
#3
Yes i have done that multiple times and error and key fob still the same.
If i use the key it will lock and set the alarm OK but when i attempt to pop the front hood or unlock the car i can only see activation of the remote sensor on top of the dash but there is no response from door or hood actuators or the alarm. Furthermore the Pin Locking steering column will not click into place when removing the key. Car only has 25k miles so its hard for me to believe the key switch is worn out already.
If i use the key it will lock and set the alarm OK but when i attempt to pop the front hood or unlock the car i can only see activation of the remote sensor on top of the dash but there is no response from door or hood actuators or the alarm. Furthermore the Pin Locking steering column will not click into place when removing the key. Car only has 25k miles so its hard for me to believe the key switch is worn out already.
#4
oh, believe it. all too common. its also a 9 dollar vw part ( the switch ) and used to be only 6 ( inflation ). they fail all the time and given your issues seem key related, the switch itself would have to be suspect.
#6
Hard to tell if this is the switch or if it's the lock tumbler - the lock tumbler portion is harder to replace and has a superseded part number to a 997 piece if I recall. Is the key hard to remove? Do the wipers work with the key out? Hear any odd motors running in the cabin with the key out? The ignition switch is easy to replace (I've done it 2x) but the tumbler I've not. If you've still got stuff powered up and the key is maybe tough to remove it's the electrical switch IME.
Also - you can upgrade that fob with a 997 shell and stock guts once this is fixed
Also - you can upgrade that fob with a 997 shell and stock guts once this is fixed
#7
Yes. Its hard to get the key into the ignition and once i go to take it out i have to turn it to far left and it comes out ok but the steering lock does not engage even if i try turning the steering wheel to the left or right. I am looking at the key now and the transmitter light seems to be very strong. This morning i will try doing the advise i found on Renlist whereby the article is saying to put the key into the door or ignition and then engage the button on the keyfob to sync.
Can you provide a link to the R&R of the keyswitch and tumbler if you have it.
Hard to beleive this is happening to a 25 k pristine car but it is a 2001.
Can you provide a link to the R&R of the keyswitch and tumbler if you have it.
Hard to beleive this is happening to a 25 k pristine car but it is a 2001.
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#8
^ only to add that this situation is unlike that other guy that had a myriad number of issues and many thought it was the ignition switch and i had to disagree. while mine has ( like most of us ) had that faulty 10 dollar part cause all manner of the most peculiar electrical gremlins, that other guy had way too many things going on for that one little switch to be responsible for.
while this guy is a prime candidate for swapping out the part! I've always said, if we are going to throw parts at our cars diagnostically? let it be the ones under $50 bucks! lol.
when the actual locking mech/tumbler goes bad, that manifests moreso in an inability to actually insert/remove, rather than the *seemingly* unrelated electrical gremlins that a bad switch can, and DOES, cause. i think all are on the right path to a proper diagnosis, though i'm leaning toward the tumbler/locking mech itself, yet again, swapping a 9$ part ( the vw switch ) wont hurt.
lastly, the internals of the key fob go bad all the time too! resulting in a roughly 500 repair once parts bought and fob(s) programmed. may as well get two as they'll program 2 for 1 price wise ( though they still bend you over for the 10 min's to pwiss it ) since it's always minimum one hour labor.
while this guy is a prime candidate for swapping out the part! I've always said, if we are going to throw parts at our cars diagnostically? let it be the ones under $50 bucks! lol.
when the actual locking mech/tumbler goes bad, that manifests moreso in an inability to actually insert/remove, rather than the *seemingly* unrelated electrical gremlins that a bad switch can, and DOES, cause. i think all are on the right path to a proper diagnosis, though i'm leaning toward the tumbler/locking mech itself, yet again, swapping a 9$ part ( the vw switch ) wont hurt.
lastly, the internals of the key fob go bad all the time too! resulting in a roughly 500 repair once parts bought and fob(s) programmed. may as well get two as they'll program 2 for 1 price wise ( though they still bend you over for the 10 min's to pwiss it ) since it's always minimum one hour labor.
#10
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ering_Lock.htm Also explains why it can be the electronic part causing key to be hard to remove etc.
#11
Amazon.com: C004 4A0905849B 87-98 Audi Ignition Switch A4 A6 A8 S4 S6 V8 90 100 200 5000 Cabriolet 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98: Automotive
i promise you, its the same part, and I've now had it installed for three years at least.
lock mech i'd search pelican parts first. then compare prices elsewhere. good luck.
#12
Be very careful about using a knock off repro part, use a VW branded or Bosch branded part - been there done that! Replace just the electricl first, (', 99% sure this will solve the issue and that the tumblers etc. will NOT have to be replaced just realize there's an improved part out there. Swapping the electrical switch is easy, swapping the tumbler lock mechanism is far harder from what I've read.
http://www.gagme.com/greg/996/ignition
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...ng-switch.html
VERY common problem!
P.S. Headlight switch also seems common, replaced one of those too cheap cheap. Bet there are a few other weird things that are common too...
http://www.gagme.com/greg/996/ignition
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...ng-switch.html
VERY common problem!
P.S. Headlight switch also seems common, replaced one of those too cheap cheap. Bet there are a few other weird things that are common too...
#13
Looks like ill be changing out the switch as its an inexpensive option.
What i having a hard time wrapping my head around is how this would effect the key fob activating the lock/unlock feature and alarm engagement?
Also the Pin locking of the steering column.
P.S. Thanks guys for those great links!!
What i having a hard time wrapping my head around is how this would effect the key fob activating the lock/unlock feature and alarm engagement?
Also the Pin locking of the steering column.
P.S. Thanks guys for those great links!!
#14
You could also search on resetting the key fob (backwards battery reset).