Anyone have a link to the thread detailing the glue fix of the end tanks on the 997.2GT2 intercoolers? I just did a boost leak test and have small leak on one. Might as well pull them and do the glue fix.

 

ask earl ! he know the stuff to put in

 

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...lding&A=111346 Interesting but not what your looking for.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ing-badly.html John rice mention Araldite 2011 on post#6 answer by pete95zhn.

 

Ah, thanks guys. Araltide 2011 is basically a two part epoxy, nothing earth shattering. I spoke with a friend who used JB Weld on his 997.2s without any issues after a year on the track. He did his prior to install when he got them new. I'm going with JB weld for the sake of simplicity as Araltide is not exactly easy to get here stateside..

 

I'd use windshield urethane, stuff is designed to be air-tight(naturally)..and is extremely strong, resilient and slightly flexible

 

Using window weld several times, I would think it has too much flex in it.

I actually got some araldite and did a set. I see no reason jbweld wouldn't work.

 

 

I got a 200ml cartridge of araldite 2011 from Skygeek.com. It came pretty quick. I also needed to order an epoxy applicator gun from Home Depot, which was $30 or so. Application is very easy with the applicator gun, much easier than trying to work with JB weld. The 2011 is also much thinner than JB weld so it seemed to get into and seal all the little crevices.

Prior to putting the epoxy on, I crimped down all the metal tabs which actually fixed the small leak that I found (I pressure tested the intercoolers in a bucket of water). It doesn't appear the tabs flexed under boost, rather they just weren't crimped well from the factory. That said, I still used the epoxy since the IC's were out and I figured the epoxy would add additional strength and sealing.

 

E6000 from auto zone. seals about anything
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/e...hTerm=adhesive

 

I'll second the E6000.

32krazy! recommended it to me for a cracked in half plastic arm that moves a small panel for my convertible top. I glued it let it set up 72 hours, worked perfect. I also glued a vibram sole on my favorite hiking boots that had delaminated. It's held up to 3-4 several mile hikes and rocky climbs that torture boots. Used it to glue other stuff that super glues and epoxies don't bond to.

Thanks krazy!

 

the E6000 sounds good too. many ways to skin a cat i guess. decisions, decisions....lol thanks for the input guys

 

I'll third what Rob, Krazy, and Nick have said although I'll throw another product out: Sikaflex 221 RLT. I'd feel better using a flexible glue vs. a solid epoxy due to the different expansion coefficients of plastic and aluminum.

 

Many new options for the glue. IMO the best way to hold them from popping is to crimp the tabs and glue them before anything happens. When the tabs have been twisted the first time the prognose isn't that good anymore. Also if you have for a reason or another a lot of oil mist venting from the tank it will condensate into the IC and seep through the glue, separating it from aluminium.

MY RH IC has been good since glueing. LH popped twice because of the oil, now tabs are broken. So that's why aluminium tanks with TIG glue...

 

Seems like the mechanical retention is pretty well covered by Porsche and just needs a little help? I'd think something flexible would be the way to go too, even a silicone might be good enough? Seal it up and crimp the tabs good and it ought to hold, maybe bench pressure test it before putting it back in to be sure..