Like said turbos are all on what you want the car to do. Staying stock injectors will be more of a limit than the compressor.
Personally I'm building a set for my car which are a custom billet wheel. They are 47.5/66/70.5mm extended tip wheels. Fast spool, great hp (it will be on pump and e85), and is perfect for my weekend warrior being mostly a autox, some track, and play toy car.
For you any smaller wheel hybrid k16 turbo would work. Top that with a 5 bar reg and some tuning you should be able to get in the 575-600 hp range

 

exactly, and "safely".

 

I guess for me the compressor wheel should not be bigger than 68mm even a little smaller. 1.2 bar pressure with a peak of 1.3 bar. Like the k16/24 hybrid but with a modern compressor wheel, so wirh a good tune i get close to 600hp.

 

like i said your going to run out of steam at wot on the small turbo.

as for a 5 bar at wot thats a disaster waiting to happen. run as n=much fuel as you want to the injectors they are still to small to flow enough to the motor when its needed the most.
just my .02

 

Guess ur right. Well to put some 997 TT injectors in shouldnt be a problem.
They deliver enough gas as far as i know.

 

Definitely not true with all K16 variants Steve. Most, but not all. My turbos do not run out of steam up top as the hp curve increases all the way to 7500. Down low with stock rods the tuning had to be detuned prior to my rebuild. Up high, I'm limited by the capacity of the MAF. We are actually scaling about 10% over the maf capacity. There is no drop off. I ran k24 hybrids prior to these and my current turbos are stronger across the board including up high, no comparison. Not all K16s are the same..

 

When r u gonna throw the car on the dyno Mark? Temps are cool now and it takes 30 minutes.

 

my mistake john. i misread post #9 thinking he wanted a wot autobahn runner. in actuality he doesn't want that but a 7000 rpm top gear at the track car. z/c or k16/68hta would work well for him. no need to go back in time with a k16/18 when theres better options out there

 

it's on my list i swear. there's a place in torrance ( 50 miles ( i'm up in a forest! ) setup for our cars exclusively. my plan, such as it is, is to go there and precision911 at the same time to discuss some body parts. i have to "plan" trips into the ghetto of la.

but dont worry if it came back as 489rwhp i wouldn't change my screen name and hide lol

seriously though, i very much wan't to know if any of the $ I've spent on the little stuff I've done has gained me anything over the couple of years, though it hasn't been much. my setup is so basic that anyone's guess is gonna be close. it's not far off from your OLD basic ruf 16/24 550 kit decatted and w an ipd. so not much goin on..but i am gonna wait until the 3.5's go on w injectors i don't wanna embarrass myself

 

The K16 based RUF kit is the 520 kit. The 550 set up I had used k24/26 turbos. The 550 kit would dyno right at 500whp on pump with all the supporting mods like intake pipes, intake manifold, exhaust etc. Kevin told me his k16/24s with exhaust 5bar and supporting mods dyno right at 500whp on pump. Hence my curiosity. You should get a baseline dyno with your current set up so he have a comparison with any changes you make. Injectors won't give you any more power, they will give you better duty cycles..

 

mine isn't a ruf "kit". i was referencing what was considered a kit that employed 16/24 old school hybrids, which you have more than a passing familiarity with.

..and 500 whp on pump per kevins estimate w a cargraphic 1.2 tune well, thats where i'd be at, give or take, but i've done nothing less than that. we've had this same conversation at least a couple of times lol. i'm actually more interested in getting new IC's but i thought injectors would be a nice complement to them. plus i missed the toth intro special on the inlets, since redoing my calipers took precedence this month lol

mine are similar to kevin's original offerings as although he was one of the guys making them or making them available long ago, so were shops like speed gallery and fvd in germany. as you know, way back when, there were only a few options available at the time ruf/fvd/umw's/ speed galleries hybrids which came with a "staged ( yeah i know.. lol ) 'kit" etc. so yeah, thats where I'm at as a baseline. its what used to be called the "550 kit" and then whatever small stuff I've done to add to that and yes, have headers from SG as well.. though will say, that eliminating cats with my kline 2.5 is no "small" difference to my *** dyno. i hope to get real numbers as I've said, but its not going to be some major swing from those estimates since hundreds of folks have had roughly the same setups as mine. kevin's original 16/24 hybrid car numbers, would mirror mine pretty closely, i'm sure.

you know where my car is at.

 

I guess i will use a 49,5 mm compressor wheel to modify my k16 turbos.

 

i am still trying to understand once and for all the difference in available/usable power btw billet 16's and 16/24's such as, say.. umw's or pwdr used to run before his 3.8 build.

can anyone say definitively which of the two types ( 16billets vs 16/24's ) will give more power up top, assuming the low end has to be similar?

 

I got these numbers from a thread over at pelican. Assuming they are correct or perhaps someone here could correct them....

K16/24 flow rate = approx. 27 lbs/min
k16/16g flow rate= approx. 35 lbs/min
k24/18g flow rate= approx. 40 lbs/min

 

be great if there was a non technical way to decipher that! without a dissertation. sorry ghost.. thought that info might be of help to you as well...