About to rebuild my engine, what do i need to change?

So far i have:

• New bottom end, crank and bearings/oil pump
• Liners and pistons and rods
• Ported heads with 1mm oversize inlet valves
• Full gasket set
• Will pin and bond the coolant lines
• replace coolant hoses as required
• ARP Studs
• New timing chains

Are 997 lifters a must, intake and exhaust?
Are chain guides and tensioners a must or can i just inspect and reuse?
Check torque and loctite the intermediate drive gear screws?
New screws for the cam lobes (manual states replace with 10.2 grade)

 

Who will be doing the work? There is a reason you dont find how-to build threads like these because you really need a mentor who can guide you through the process. Forum help will just be confusing IMO.

Are 997 lifters a must, intake and exhaust? - NO
Are chain guides and tensioners a must or can i just inspect and reuse? Inspect and reuse
Check torque and loctite the intermediate drive gear screws? Maybe you are using the wrong words, or im not familiar with the correct terms, have a pic?
New screws for the cam lobes (manual states replace with 10.2 grade) - Cam lobes? You mean the cam caps, the cam gear bolts or the tiny screws that bolt the main cam cap to the cam carrier?

 

yes sorry, cam caps. i read the lifter threads and it appears the 997 are also prone to failure, so not wanting to spend cash i don't need to. Yet people are still recommending them.

I'll be doing most of the work.

My plan is to just take the block down to get the timing done at an indie who has the kit. Most of the other tools can be made or bought.

 

i did the 997 lifters because they are supposed to be stronger. if you stay with the oem then use the money saved for the 12mm head studs and gaskets , with jig from silly rabbit mtorosport . its the last time you will have to deal with studs lifting.

what rod set are you using? srm has a 3.8 liner piston and ring combo thats half the cost of the fvd and holds as much power as you can throw at them. either pauter or carrillo rods can be used

i work closely with silly rabbit motorsport and can get you the best pricing that won't break the bank and allow for a strong motor which will give you yrs of use

 

Not sure on rods tbh. Pistons are CP.

I'm not going for massive HP, just 800 with alpha 3076, but should get some good low down torque being a 4.0L stroker. I think the ARP will be good enough for my needs. Will certainly be in touch with SRM, would like a billet top hat and wiring for the dual walboro's. A friend of mine on here has recommended them also. But i don't need them for a while yet. Still got to build the engine.

 

arp will guarantee you get to open the motor up again. i work with srm feel free to email me with any questions or pricing. tbtunes@bellsouth.net

 

DO NOT USE ARP STUDS.

Ive got some BBI ones ill send you for much less then the arp price if you need to save some $ on it. other wise choose a different vendor then ARP.

my motor came apart because the arp's didn't hold from a previous builder. they have to be retorqued more then once to get them to hold and they still want to back out.

 

What's so bad about ARP on a Porsche? I've already got them. They are in my high compression duratec and holding fine no issues.

 

The stud length and material, these are not l19. The 12mm studs are easy to install with the srm tool and tq to 90ftlbs. With arp and raceware, you must heat cycle the engine then pull it again and retorque. Back in the day, the racewares lost anywnere from 5-8ftlbs jusy from the heat cycle. 12mm no heat cycle needed as even at 80 ft lbs, there is substantially more clamp force than with a 10mm at 45ftlbs. 12mm have 50% more x sectional area than the 10mm.

 

Do not use arp studs they are garbage!You have been warned!My motor was the first to have a set of 12mm head studs on it and they were developed initially for my car by Evoms back in 2008.Before that with the ARP we either had to limit the power(torque) the motor made or it was just a matter of time.The torque is what u need to worry about so if you are building a motor focused on torque then you are even more at risk !Put a good set of 12 mm head studs and never look back.

 

the OG has spoken! listen to what the seasoned vets have to say. the are truly looking after your best interests.

 

Certainly wasn't planning on 12mm, think they will be overkill for mine, likely do some better 10mm then as it does appear the ARP are just too short.

 

there aren't any better. the raceway 10mm were the go to stud. when sean did his motor at 900 hp they lifted. when he installed ten initially he retorqued at 2 heat cycles and saw 8 ft.lb loss of torque. 3 times the heads lifted. 12mm solved everything. we have a complete kit with jig to ensure the case is drilled and tapped properly and a machine shop close to you can drill the housings and heads. or ship it all to silly rabbit motorsport and they will drill tapp and machine everything and ship it back.

 

Really appreciate the advice on this, will look into it. Need an independent second opinion without someone trying to sell me something! though i do appreciate you have good intentions of seeing my build right and that's why i posted for the advice, so i'll follow it up.

Just want to sure they are worth the cash before i switch the heating off to the kids bedroom..

 

To machine the cases the cost is about 1000 dollars then add in the studs which u are buying anyway.In the grand scheme of things the cost is minimal and is essential in my view.Once that is done ur head sealing worries are over.Also there is no need to o ring the head once the 12mm studs are done.