Engine Drop with MaxJax and Floor Jack?
#46
Got it. Seems like it would work well and be stable. I'm a bit lazy to make it. Seems that most people with a table just drop it right on without perhaps only a shim at the front of the motor (near transmission).
What do you say for those that have used the table?
What do you say for those that have used the table?
#47
I used a piece of 2x4 to keep it off the center if the motor and the crash brace underneath. 2 straps to the table to stabilize the motor
#48
Later, Steve
#50
Thanks guys. All your suggestions were greatly appreciated. I wound up building a smaller version of the wooden cradles. Basically just a "U" if you will, to stabilize the engine side to side. I'll get a picture after I put my motor back. But it's out now!
#54
First time doing this operation, took me about 8 hrs total, including setting up the hydraulic table and peripherals.
I did mod the hydraulic table handle as it usually folds onto the table for storage. I flipped the hinge at the bottom to fold outwards, then installed some PTO pins to easily fold it back for storage.
No real tricks. Though there are some vague steps that are not well documented. I used a combination of the factory manual and this link (mostly Rennfab's posts, TurboTodd took out more stuff than necessary) - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3386877 Really good idea to check off items as you do it, as there's plenty to keep track of.
Details:
1) Leave A/C with the body. Though you'll have to disconnect the fuel cooler attached to the A/C. There's a tricky A/C clutch wire that snakes to the side of the motor - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pump-car.html
2) Take Hydraulic pump out with motor.
3) The fuel return connection is a right angle connector, with 10mm bolt securing it.
And hydraulic table is most definitely the way to go with the MaxJax. Lots of safety and control when dropping the motor which is important. The clearances are pretty tight and you do want the motor to drop straight down.
I did mod the hydraulic table handle as it usually folds onto the table for storage. I flipped the hinge at the bottom to fold outwards, then installed some PTO pins to easily fold it back for storage.
No real tricks. Though there are some vague steps that are not well documented. I used a combination of the factory manual and this link (mostly Rennfab's posts, TurboTodd took out more stuff than necessary) - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3386877 Really good idea to check off items as you do it, as there's plenty to keep track of.
Details:
1) Leave A/C with the body. Though you'll have to disconnect the fuel cooler attached to the A/C. There's a tricky A/C clutch wire that snakes to the side of the motor - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pump-car.html
2) Take Hydraulic pump out with motor.
3) The fuel return connection is a right angle connector, with 10mm bolt securing it.
And hydraulic table is most definitely the way to go with the MaxJax. Lots of safety and control when dropping the motor which is important. The clearances are pretty tight and you do want the motor to drop straight down.
Last edited by pteck; 02-15-2016 at 08:57 AM.
#55
Thanks! Will probably be doing this sometime in the spring, so your notes will come in handy for everyone. New to working on Porsche's, but hopeful it is as fun to pickup as my BMW has been the last 10 years!
#57
The other thing to note is that you can install multiple anchor sets in the garage for different post widths. A single post can be moved to a different set of anchors in less than 5 minutes.
Give them a call and they can answer any other questions.
http://www.maxjaxusa.com
#58
I concur with Vogz comments.
I personally spaced mine at 130". This will work with just about all unibody cars. Where the width may be too wide is for smaller body on frame trucks, where the lift points are inset of the body, on the frame. Wider placement is definitely preferred for door accessibility and ease of swinging in the arms for short wheel base cars like out 911.
I modded my MaxJax setup a bit. I choose to permanently mount the hydraulic pump on the wall and run the hydraulic line with an extension overhead. Also put baby corner bumpers on the lift columns to prevent door dings. The MaxJax is really an awesome setup.
Also, if you do get it, don't let the interwebs worry you about the anchors. Each of mine went in perfectly. Trick is to use a true SDS impact rotary drill with new 7/8" bit to make sure the holes are round and true.
Test lift at full 6k lift capacity:
I personally spaced mine at 130". This will work with just about all unibody cars. Where the width may be too wide is for smaller body on frame trucks, where the lift points are inset of the body, on the frame. Wider placement is definitely preferred for door accessibility and ease of swinging in the arms for short wheel base cars like out 911.
I modded my MaxJax setup a bit. I choose to permanently mount the hydraulic pump on the wall and run the hydraulic line with an extension overhead. Also put baby corner bumpers on the lift columns to prevent door dings. The MaxJax is really an awesome setup.
Also, if you do get it, don't let the interwebs worry you about the anchors. Each of mine went in perfectly. Trick is to use a true SDS impact rotary drill with new 7/8" bit to make sure the holes are round and true.
Test lift at full 6k lift capacity:
#59
Side mount garage door opener was mentioned.... I have one and it's awesome! Dead silent, just hums and the door rises. My garage isn't attached to my home but if it was I'd certainly want one as the top mount ones rattle every house I've seen them in. Side mount was the only way I could have an opener for my door, should've done it ages sooner!
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