I know nothing about sway bars. Please help me.

What are the best sways bars or the best in general sway bars for my suspension package?


Thanks again guys

 

Adjustable Eibach anti-roll bars, as per Phound set front to full hard and rear in the middle. These sways will stiffen your ride even further but will give you flatter cornering. If your roads are very bumpy like where I live, set shocks at 3 front and 4 rear. Have the car aligned by someone who knows these cars. All this will make a huge improvement to your handling.

 

Thanks bro, any other inputs?

 

Rear H&R bar. I run mine full stiff, but you can soften it up if you want to.

It may have been pwdrhound that said it was too much oversteer on the track, but it's perfect on the street.

Later, Steve

 

+1, I'm planning to get the Eibachs as well. And, yes.. a great alignment works wonders.

 

Money no object set up RWD, go with OEM GT3 front and rear bars. Rear is 4 way adjustable and the front is 5 way. The Eibach bars are a good economical options as they are hollow and light. That would be my second choice.

Tarett makes copies of the factory GT3 bars. Probably a good option but I don't have any experience with them.

I'd stay away from the H&R bars. The H&R rear sway is 3 way adjustable and very heavy compared to the 4 way adjustable OEM GT3 sway. 9lb14oz compared to 3lb08oz. The H&R sway is solid, the GT3 is hollow. The H&R bar is very very beefy and I would not recommend running it with the stock TT front bar. It is much stiffer than the GT3 or stock TT bar and will give you a lot of oversteer even when set on the softest setting. At the middle setting it results in rather dangerous oversteer at the track. It makes the car very loose. I won't even mention full stiff. My experience running the H&R rear sway is that it takes away from rear end grip. To counter act it, you really need to pair it with the front H&R solid bar which is very stiff and again very heavy. If you're just going to change out the rear bar and run the stock front, then the GT3 rear bar is the way to go in my opinion.

 

+1 on the GT3 (same as GT2) bars. IMHO, no matter what setup, you can balance out the front & rear. They come up for sale once in a while.

I had the H&R bars and ran out of adjustability.

Contact Ira at Tarett about his GT3 bars, and find out if hollow or solid bars.

I would strongly suggest you get the adjustable front and rear drop links too.

 

I've got PSS10's and Eibach's on my car. I've been messing with the settings a bit. They were on the car when I bought it and the owner had both sways on the middle setting and the Pss10's really stiff.

I've gone full ninnie as I felt the car was too stiff for me to learn it's characteristics with. I've gone full soft on the sways an the PSS10's are set very soft. Slowly stiffening things up as I get more seat time.

 

+1 Love my eibachs set as Jimbo describes

 

Very good advice and thanks for helping me throughout my suspension setup, couldn't have done it without your help. I have sorted out my rear over steer by softening the rear shocks, its now very planted.

Thanks Tim for helping me choose Eibachs, very happy with them.

 

My pleasure Jimbo

 

Are the eibach sways hollow or solid?

Tire rack shows them as solid

 

I'm pretty sure they're solid, they certainly feel like it as they're heavier than the OEM ones that came off.

 

We have had several discussions on this subject and I have spent some time trying to sort through our different impressions. I think I know why our impressions are both correct.

When I installed my H&R bar, you expressed your concern about the potential over-steer issue. I respect your opinion and believed you were giving an accurate assessment of the situation. You also stated that a pro driver had driven your car with the same impression of the H&R bar.

The issue is I have not had any issue with the balance of my car with the H&R bar, even set to the stiffest setting. This was very confusing, as I believed in you assessment, but also knew what I was feeling. I had asked you if you had used the H&R bar with similar spring rates to the PSS10's and you had used H&R coil-overs with very similar rates and still had the over-steer.

I believe I now know why we have had completely different opinions on the H&R bar. PSS10's have a very flimsy mounting point for the swaybar drop link, reducing the effective stiffness of the bar. Basically with the ciol-overs you used, the H&R bar was stiffer changing your balance to over-steer. With the flimsy PSS10 mounts, you need a stiffer bar to get a balanced setup.

Yes the H&R bar is heavier, due to it's solid construction, but it's significantly stiffer. I believe this is necessary for the PSS10's.

Here's a thread I did on the subject, which also has a link to another thread where we discussed the subject.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...bar-setup.html

Later, Steve

 

I think the issue is two fold Steve.

First of all, on the street its really difficult to get a feel for how the car will feel at high speed when approaching the limits of adhesion. It's just too dangerous and most guys won't take their car there to feel how the bars affect the handling. My car felt perfectly fine on the street with the H&R rear bar but downright dangerous when driven at an aggressive pace on the track.

Secondly, PSM is likely masking some of the issues that would become apparent on a car without any PSM intervention, as in PSM totally disconnected. Try this, disconnect the PSM pump under the brake master cylinder (takes 30 seconds to do) and go hammer the car into turns with some heavy trail braking. Also squeeze on the throttle aggressively out of medium 50-60mph sweeping turns and see how the car reacts on exit. It will be an eye opener. I would not do this on the street for obvious reasons.