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Gt2 slave conversion, change rod or machine gb?

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Old 02-02-2016 | 12:43 PM
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Gt2 slave conversion, change rod or machine gb?

So as i have both engine and gearbox out, and i suspect a leak on the clutch accumulator i've decided to go for a gt2 conversion.

Im really a fan of using OEM parts, and have read several threads around this topic on this forum.
But i have yet not concluded wether i should bring the gearbox to a machineshop and machine down the face where the slave sylinder goes, or just extend the rod.

Is there any rod that are longer available?
If i decide to machine down the gearbox how many millimetres/inches do i remove?
 
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Old 02-02-2016 | 04:35 PM
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theres no need to machine the housing at all. drill the 2 stud holes tap them and the 3/4" in the center. mount the slave . on the inside of the bellhousing a small amount of clearancing is needed. a simple dremel and bit does the job. less than 2mm is removed. not worth sending it out
 
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Old 02-02-2016 | 05:41 PM
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This ^^ Engagement will be perfect if you use the correct factory parts.
 
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Old 02-03-2016 | 02:01 AM
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According to this thread there are some issues:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html

Before you tackle this project know you may want to extend the the slave shaft 1/16" to 1/8". If you look at the side where the stock slave went you notice they machined the case a bit. when i measured it, it was about 0.060". That is what you want to add to the shaft.
But im not sure if that is correct, as the gt2 housing (pictured further down in that thread) clearly is machined way more.
 
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Old 02-03-2016 | 02:26 AM
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no need to lengthen the shaft or machine the bellhousing. it fits fine as it comes with all stock parts. the inside of the bellhousing needs just minor trimming with the fork. install it and swing it back and forth and see were it touches. dremel it and your good
 
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Old 02-03-2016 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Ronny-
According to this thread there are some issues
Despite the fact that I have not yet done this conversion on a 996tt, I will say it was someone being overly cautious. I have more than enough experience with hydraulic clutches. They are not precise mechanisms (which is good). He goes from a minimum of 0.060" to a max of 1/8" difference. That is 1.5 to 3.0mm. There is more than enough tolerance in the slave cylinder to take up this slack. As long as you are within the operating ranges of both the master and the slave cylinders, the length of the pushrod should not have an effect on the point of release.
 
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Old 02-03-2016 | 08:02 AM
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Ok thanks guys, ill og ahead and purchase the parts needed.
The fork is just standard 993 right? should be posible to source from a scrapper or any suggestions as to where to get those cheapest?
 
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Old 02-03-2016 | 10:51 AM
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I bought it some weeks ago from pelicanparts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...16-086-90-M260


I think it's the best offer rigt now, got it for 158$ during these days


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