Hi guys, I sold my 2007 Cayman and looking for a more power porsche and within my budget, it should be 2002 Porsche 996 Turbo. Before I purchase, what do I need to concern and check? Which part like engine should check and test before I purchase?


It's a 2002 Porsche 996 turbo Tip with 65000miles on it.




thank you guys.


Chris

 

Have a Porsche Dealer do a PPI. Tell them to use the CPO checklist. This will tell you everything about the condition of the car.

 

Check for a thorough maintenance history going back as far as possible. You want to know what maintenance has been done so you can have some idea of what $$$ is coming out of your pocket soon. Are you buying from a dealer or private owner?

The maintenance history will tell you more about the condition of the car than anything else IMO. A PPI is good measure and I recommend one before ANY purchase....

 

I made the mistake of buying a low mileage car that had little maintenance done other than the minor/major services. All those things that people replace along the way are ALL failing now. Ouch!!

 

exactly, and nick? that cpo checklist is the LAST list one should ever put any faith in. believe me.

i had $14k in warrantied svc needed on a 29k mile cpo'd x50 in my first year with it. what if i hadn't bought the cpo warranty for 3k.? ouch is about right.

 

Just FYI,
Be sure to have your PPI shop take a close look at the tiptronic tranny and ensure there is no sign of any leaking in the seal connecting to the transfer case, even a a slight leak can be a sign of a very expensive repair ahead.


http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...on-repairable/

 

Congrats with the possible move to a TT.
I've been in HKG about 15 times over the years...have in laws in the hills in HKG side near the race track . With that said, I know of only a few Porsche shops and only one Porsche Dealer near Central. Best is to take it there for the PPI.
As for roads to unwind the TT, I guess you will need to talk a monthly drive to the New Territory once a month.
Good luck with purchase.

 

Is there a link to the car, some here may have already seen it previously?

 

The Turbo is just a used car so a thorough used car check out goes a long way to turning up any issues.

My advice is to visit the car cold -- be sure the A/C is off -- and verify the CEL comes on when the key is turned then goes off as the engine fires up and runs.

Let the engine idle while you walk around the car but keep an ear on the engine. It can be a bit rough sounding at cold start and shortly after but as the engine warms up and the idle speed drops the engine should smooth out.

Let the engine idle a while then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. The route should give the driver a chance to demo the car like you intend to use it.

Once warmed up this should include a hard acceleration up through at least a gear or two -- space/traffic permitting.

The engine should pull strong and smooth from idle to red line and the upshift should be smart and without any drama and the engine should continue to pull hard.

Back at the starting point then you switch seats and drive the car over the same route and drive the car the same way.

Do a k-turn or two which has you shifting between drive and reverse a couple of times in quick succession to make sure the Tip can keep up.

After the test drive then do a used car check of the A/C and every other accessory or option.

Be sure the spoiler goes up and down with no dash warning lights -- confirm this along with the CEL come on at key on time but go right off when the engine begins to run -- and the spoiler remains even up or down.

After you shut off the engine open the engine compartment lid and check the spoiler hardware and engine compartment for any signs of spoiler hydraulic fluid leaks.

Be careful! The engine compartment fan can come on at any time. Keep your fingers clear of the fan blades!

Use your nose to check for any antifreeze odor. The coolant tank cap, the coolant tank, the engine coolant hose connections -- in the block -- and the radiators are common leak areas. The water pump too but that will have to wait until the car is on a lift.

If you still like the car arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air and allows for a careful inspection for any leak sign. Every hose, gasket, o-ring, hose fitting, hose clamp, hydraulic line, line fitting, CV boot gets checked. The water pump, RMS are the "biggies", but any leak from a transmission seal is a concern.

Check the radiators carefully for any signs of weeping. Look at the engine coolant hose fittings for any signs of leakage. To address these is an engine out job.

If the radiator ducts are full of trash you have to at least budget for a bumper cover removal to have the trash cleaned out.

Check the body water drains under the panels on either side of the battery box. Since these require a Torx bit to remove the screws this hs to wait until the PPI.

Peer at behind/under the water pump pulley for any anti-freeze build up. If the water pump has too much of a residue stain -- white -- this can be a sign of a leak.

Check the front diff carefully for any leak sign. Check the rear diff too and of course the Tip.

Check brake rotor wear and thickness. A 1mm lip on the rotor is a good sign the rotor is worn close to its replace by thickness.

Tire wear should be even across the tread faces. Inner edge wear at the rear can be a sign of an alignment issue.