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Enclosed trailer question (thinking of upgrading from an open trailer)

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Old 09-22-2017 | 07:25 AM
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Question Enclosed trailer question (thinking of upgrading from an open trailer)

Hi everyone,

I'm thinking of upgrading from an open trailer to an enclosed setup but I have a few questions...

For context, I am towing with a 3/4 ton diesel Silverado and I am currently planning to tow around a Miata and a Porsche 996 Turbo. Currently I don't have a gooseneck however I wouldn't mind installing one if it would make sense to do so. Also, I have a fairly tight driveway & street so as much as I think it would be cool, I cannot get away with a monster sized trailer.

Onto the questions:
- What size trailer makes sense?
To me it seems like a 20' trailer is the minimum however a 24' seems like a popular option that I have seen. I'm thinking the 24' trailer may be too long for my driveway unless I can go with a gooseneck option.
- Are there any aluminum enclosed options that aren't through the roof price wise? I'd love to keep the budget in the under 6-8k range.
I don't think this option exists unless I find a local used aluminum enclosed but I figured I would ask. Aluminum isn't a requirement because I have enough truck to pull a steel enclosed no problem. Aluminum could just help me avoid north east winter rust issues.
- At the tracks for the DE events, can I typically leave the trailer for the weekend while competing?
I understand that Pocono Raceway may allow for this... not sure with others. Just trying to gauge how I need to work things when traveling to the track and staying over somewhere.
Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 09-22-2017 | 12:09 PM
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1. Goose-neck, you can thank me later
2. Aluminum, don't even think about steel. weight and rust.
3. Size depends on your needs and neighborhood rules
4. At track, depends on track and event
Look for used there must be a ton on line.
 
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Old 09-22-2017 | 12:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I've been on the hunt for a gooseneck setup but so far they are few & far between unless I get a crazy long trailer which unfortunately the logistics won't work for me due to the driveway & small street (dirt road actually) constraints. That seems ideal though because even though it adds 8' to the tongue versus typically 4' with an open style, the added maneuverability seems to far outweigh the added length.

Aluminum is certainly ideal. I just need to try to locate something used so the price point fits within my budget. Unfortunately not a heck of a lot in that space from what I've found so far. I'll keep on the hunt though.
 
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Old 09-22-2017 | 12:51 PM
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https://sleequipment.com/enclosed-tr...RoC2h0QAvD_BwE

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Non-goose neck 24ft free delivery in your price range. 30 second google search. Happy buying!
 
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Old 09-22-2017 | 12:56 PM
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Yeah finding a steel enclosed bumper pull is very easy in my budget. I can find them all day w/ my current searching. I was thinking that if I could find the elusive unicorn trailer being a 22 to 24' gooseneck in aluminum then perhaps stretch the budget to get it. Heck even a steel trailer within budget would work. Aluminum obviously being the more ideal choice though.
 
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Old 09-22-2017 | 03:14 PM
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When you pull an enclosed trailer you're effectively pulling a sail. In my experience towing a race bike and gear or my old e36 across the country I get the same gas mileage plus or minus and that's a 3400# difference. This is pulling a 16x7 enclosed tandem axle bumper pull trailer, going wider to an 8 which is ideal for cars will further increase drag. I'd save some cash and make sure you have an ideal tow vehicle vs saving weight. My tow vehicle is a classic body 2500 duramax.
Shawn
 
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Old 09-22-2017 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Sveach756
When you pull an enclosed trailer you're effectively pulling a sail. In my experience towing a race bike and gear or my old e36 across the country I get the same gas mileage plus or minus and that's a 3400# difference. This is pulling a 16x7 enclosed tandem axle bumper pull trailer, going wider to an 8 which is ideal for cars will further increase drag. I'd save some cash and make sure you have an ideal tow vehicle vs saving weight. My tow vehicle is a classic body 2500 duramax.
Shawn

I already have a 3/4 ton LBZ Duramax so my tow vehicle is all set.
 
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Old 09-23-2017 | 06:39 AM
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I bought an aluminum 20' Lightning this year. Lowered the roof to 6', added side swing up door and got heavy duty tail gate with extended ramp. Pull it with my Nissan Pro 4X. It's tight up front in the V nose with extra set of wheels and race jugs, tools, etc. But for me, a perfect set up.
 
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Old 09-23-2017 | 04:29 PM
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I have a full height 22' ATC Raven enclosed aluminum trailer with a 2' V-nose (making it a 24') that I use to tow my 996 which weighs 3150 fully fueled. I also carry a spare set of wheels and tires along with the typical assortment of spares and tools and gas jugs. Total load is about 3600 plus 2400 for the trailer itself which combines to right at 6000lbs. I use a Cayenne S as my tow vehicle which has a 7700lb tow capacity. While I'm not setting any speed records, I have no complaints even when towing through +8500' passes in CO and Wyoming. I tow between 65-75mph and get 9-9.5 mpg. Even in steep inclines I can maintain 60mph in 3rd. The enclosed has a lot of drag which accounts for the poor gas mileage. With my open Featherlite 18' I get 12-3 mpg and can go 80-85mpg.

I've had zero issues with my enclosed set up which incidentally handles great even in gusty 30-40mph winds I'm encountered in Wyoming. That was my worry initially but turned out to be a non event. My plan was to get a dedicated tow vehicle like a GMC 2500 but I scrapped the idea as the Cayenne has been great for my needs without having to resort to yet another vehicle. Each year I typically do 2-3 track events +1000 miles from home plus another 10-12 events close to home. The enclosed aluminum has been wonderful, no comparison to the open Featherlite.

I bought my ATC brand new ordered to my specs for $10500 and spend another $500 or so to do a full duraliner floor coating applied plus a small winch added to interior in the nose. Great investment as these trailers just don't depreciate hardly at all. I doubt you will find a used aluminum at much of a savings. Regarding leaving the trailer at events, every track I've been to has allowed me to leave the trailer there during the event. I was at the Miller Club race two weeks ago and left my trailer there for 5 days after the event. If you coordinate with the organizers, it's generally not a problem.
 

Last edited by pwdrhound; 09-23-2017 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 09-23-2017 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
something that many dont think about is backing the car into the trailer so the weight is on the tongue not hanging off the back of the trailer causing the trailer to sway. if you back the car into the trailer look for a trailer that has an escape swing up door on the pass side so you can open the car door and get out
Although nice, a side door is not really necessary Steve. I don't have side doors on my trailer and simply hop in the car dukes of hazard style. No problem.
 

Last edited by pwdrhound; 09-23-2017 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 09-23-2017 | 06:13 PM
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No sway on my 20 footer, do pull the turbo up most of the way.
 
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Old 09-23-2017 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
I have a full height 22' ATC Raven enclosed aluminum trailer with a 2' V-nose (making it a 24') that I use to tow my 996 which weighs 3150 fully fueled. I also carry a spare set of wheels and tires along with the typical assortment of spares and tools and gas jugs. Total load is about 3600 plus 2400 for the trailer itself which combines to right at 6000lbs. I use a Cayenne S as my tow vehicle which has a 7700lb tow capacity. While I'm not setting any speed records, I have no complaints even when towing through +8500' passes in CO and Wyoming. I tow between 65-75mph and get 9-9.5 mpg. Even in steep inclines I can maintain 60mph in 3rd. The enclosed has a lot of drag which accounts for the poor gas mileage. With my open Featherlite 18' I get 12-3 mpg and can go 80-85mpg.

I've had zero issues with my enclosed set up which incidentally handles great even in gusty 30-40mph winds I'm encountered in Wyoming. That was my worry initially but turned out to be a non event. My plan was to get a dedicated tow vehicle like a GMC 2500 but I scrapped the idea as the Cayenne has been great for my needs without having to resort to yet another vehicle. Each year I typically do 2-3 track events +1000 miles from home plus another 10-12 events close to home. The enclosed aluminum has been wonderful, no comparison to the open Featherlite.

I bought my ATC brand new ordered to my specs for $10500 and spend another $500 or so to do a full duraliner floor coating applied plus a small winch added to interior in the nose. Great investment as these trailers just don't depreciate hardly at all. I doubt you will find a used aluminum at much of a savings. Regarding leaving the trailer at events, every track I've been to has allowed me to leave the trailer there during the event. I was at the Miller Club race two weeks ago and left my trailer there for 5 days after the event. If you coordinate with the organizers, it's generally not a problem.
Ah that's a good point. The resale on the aluminum trailers is pretty awesome from what I'm finding.

Originally Posted by 32krazy!
something that many dont think about is backing the car into the trailer so the weight is on the tongue not hanging off the back of the trailer causing the trailer to sway. if you back the car into the trailer look for a trailer that has an escape swing up door on the pass side so you can open the car door and get out
Yeah I've been there when I borrowed a tiny open trailer before and I tried to tow my 911 with it. I had to do the same thing w/ reversing up on the trailer. It was a pain.
 
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Old 10-01-2017 | 08:36 PM
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Love my setup!
And I wouldn't go under 24"!
 
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  #14  
Old 10-02-2017 | 01:23 PM
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Nice setup!
 
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Old 11-24-2017 | 10:54 AM
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Steel 20 footer here. Would prefer longer but just not practical or worth the trouble. Towing with a half ton ram or durango RT. Double Insulated with AC. If you don't get longer than 24 you will need a mounted tire rack for sure. No need to avoid steel unless you plan to keep the trailer for 10-15 years. Even then, not a huge problem if maintained properly. Store on paved surface.
 


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