I believe I'm having a unique situation with my GT2 slave conversion. I have blown the piston out of the slave cylinder 3x now and im a bit lost now.

A little bit of background I noticed my clutch slip right before I parked my car for the season. I slowly stock piled parts and figured while the trans was out I would go ahead and do the GT2 clutch conversion.

Parts used:
Sachs 2.5 clutch 098 Disc, 999 764 Pressure Plate, Performance throw out bearing
New DMFW DMF153 / 996 114 012 50
GT2 slave part number 996 116 237 90
GT2 master part number 996 423 171 06
GT2 assist spring part number 996 423 081 16 (Not used)
Brake fluid reservoir cap part number 996 355 119 01
GT2 hydraulic hose 996 423 377 92
RMS 999 113 426 41
Conversion Bracket
OEM turbo slave rod

Prior to these videos I attempted to bleed the clutch twice and blew out the slave piston. I put it back together and called for some backup so I could try to figure out what was going on
Seen here I realize that my not installing the fork pin all the way was alloying for some weird torque:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/U66SKBhlitIOTngu2

I removed the slave and properly installed the pin:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lDjqRaPLMBNfGNGz1

Reinstalled the slave again with the properly installed pin:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yh9NmoxDePId2CCh2
All seems well. I bleed the clutch and it was holding but there seems to be some vagueness at the top of the clutch pedal travel but I figure I can worry about it later.

I leave the car alone for a week or so until I can get around to buttoning it up today. I went to fire up the car.
*Depress the clutch* *Pop*
"****."

Does anyone have thoughts on this? Any previous encounters? Issues with rod length or 2.5 Sachs pressure plate travel?
I'm considering spacing out the slave cylinder so it is closer to the bellhousing.

 

Odd issue, but why aren't you using the gt2 slave as it is out the box? Your post says it's using the turbo rod?

 

Yes, I read that the GT2 rod is too short and it is much shorter than the turbo rod.
It makes sense to me as the GT2 slave would be bolted to the bell housing OEM whereas the conversion is bolted a couple cm off the bell housing.
I believe putting the GT2 rod in will cause the piston to blow out sooner.

 

I've seen that issue before but only in print. I and others I know have no issues w/ the OEM gt2 as it comes out the box.

 

You don't have any pictures of where the slave is mounted on the housing... Can you post one?

 

Toss the aftermarket bracket in the garbage and mount the OEM GT2 slave as it done by the factory. You will have no issues...

 

Ahh, I missed "conversion bracket". Yes, do it the right way.

 

The "right way" is to do mount it as the factory did but the conversion bracket should work just fine. Are you sure the bearings are installed on both sides of the clutch fork pin?

The only way to pop the slave cylinder is by overextending so you have something out of tolerance there. Or, when you reassembled the slave cylinder you didn't get the retaining clip seated properly. It is a tension style clip and if it's not installed properly or damaged, the pressure applied when pushing the clutch will overcome that clip before it disengages the clutch. Try a new slave cylinder, they are relatively cheap and we have them on our website if you need to order one.

Good luck!

 

YES! Tap & drill - no bracket required. (That's how I did it - no issues here.)

 

Try to extend the rod or drill out the mounting holes on the bracket to make it closer. If you drill and tap then you have to swap the clutch fork lifter thing which would be a lot of work.

 

Several people have reported these issues. Sounds like the solution is a 120mm length rod.

 

All,
Thanks for the replies. If I got a do over I would avoid the conversion bracket and do it all OEM, especially considering I had the transmission out.
Im not eliminating it as a possibility, but for now I want to make this work.
I am sure the needle bearings are in place, but I do question if something is not right. I believe the 2nd video shows the actuation when I thought I had it right. It still seems right to me.

This is exactly what I did last night. I spaced the slave away from the bracket - closer to the bellhousing by roughly 10mm on a brand new slave cylinder with the turbo rod. This also blew out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yvB1ZQDOk6H9vByE3

I will turn up a 120mm slave rod this afternoon and give it a try.

 

EVOMS makes a rod that is longer. You need the longer rod to make the bracket work. I had the same problem you are describing.

 

Do you know the length of the rod and the distance of the slave to the bell housing?

I turned up a rod just shy of 120mm but haven't had the chance to try to install it. Perhaps tonight.

 

I do not have the exact length. But it is about an inch longer than the factory rod. I'm guessing that you did not get this as a complete kit? The bracket you are using should have a corresponding rod that comes with it. I recommend contacting the company you got the bracket from and see what they sell.


Once you get this sorted out it will be worth the hassle.