Has anyone done this as a DIY? Haven't taken it apart yet but it seems a good bet this is my issue given the spoiler warning and the oily stain here. Options are rebuild, purchase a used pump from someone, or buy the EBworks solid lifters. I'm not interested in paying lots of money for a complete new system or the electric replacement system. I've got a DIY kit on order with pick tools required to rebuild the convertible top ram hydraulics so maybe they'll work here too.

 

Try searching...there have been multiple threads regarding spoiler hydraulics. Kevin @UMW does rebuilds and Dave @Rennkit (https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1170600?highlight=rennkit) has an electric replacement.

 

Thanks wross but I'm looking for DIY rebuild or a replacement used unit. The eram kit is really expensive. I found one guy on here who's done DIY on the pump seals years ago and emailed him to see if its still holding. If anyone else has done it, I'd love to know.

 

i would ask kevin @umw. pretty sure he makes/sells a rebuild "kit" for otherwise working parts ( pump etc ) e.g. the seals.

i have re-bled my spoiler pump rams probably 4 or 5 times in the last 9 years and never ( luckily ) had an actual component part "failure". but i "maintain" the spoiler like i do oil and plugs. annually.

the "rebleed" protocol is in the factory manual and i keep a copy that i have shared countless times.

 

Interesting comment on rebleeding. What is the intention of this procedure? I have the factory manual so could do it but I need the to fix the leak first.

 

Not what you want to hear but, I've been through all of this the past 5 years. DIYs(plural) , then professional rebuilds (plural), finally bit the bullet on E-rams and wish I had done it sooner. Would have cost me half as much money and 1/100th of the time I put into it.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ydraulics.html

 

Not a big deal Stebo. Being an automation engineer I thought it might be a bit of interesting and cost effective option as I'm DIY rebuilding the convertible rams as well. I see many people paying big money for the erams or replacement hydraulics trying to retain the wing automation but I can't figure out what benefit this offers. Why not go solid lifter/non-automated wing? All aftermarket wings seem to go this direction. Is there some other value that the 'down' position provides other than boring aesthetics?

 

One of the guys on the 996 turbo facebook group just noted he installed and loves this fixed wing kit and that the parts are good quality. I expect its just a few pieces of hardware and instructions to install and remove the spoiler warning light for $170 but avoiding the design time is likely worth it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-996...5_jFluBtZRs4n8

 

I love the active aero!

I STRONGLY considered the EBWerks kit due to cost. I didnt want to ruin my stock equipment. I just pulled it off and stored it. In the end I decided to keep the factory intended functionality.

(Btw I'm also an engineer, licensed ME doing Industrial Process work for primarily Food and Beverage clients)

I also considered designing and installing linear actuators but decided the erams were worth the money and time I would spend "reinventing the wheel". Dave's a good guy too, so that was another factor. I'd be shocked if you could beat his price too, now that I've put my hands on the kit.

I am certainly not discouraging you from taking your own path, just making sure you have the benefit of learning from all of us (myself included) to make your decision. My choices don't have to reflect yours. Good luck man, I mean that. I'm always here if you have any other questions or if you want to PM me. I speak to a few of these guys on the phone from time to time too.

 

Thanks Steve. I'm now an Account Manager in Houston for a SCADA/HMI company but still love to tinker. I've seen the erams and they look well engineered and far less complicated (I'm EE so electric is always preferred in my book) so good job by him. I have no intention of coming up with a new auto solution, just figured if the pump (not the rams, I hear they are not rebuildable) could be rebuilt DIY or if a functional used one is available I'd take it on. If not, fixed wing seems a cost-effective alternative. I too liked the active aero, but on my 964 not the 996TT because I could see it while driving. As you know, our industry is full of over designed automation like this hydraulic OEM unit so I'd like to know if its benefit was more than aesthetic.

 

the only "point" to the re-bleeding is to replace any low amounts of pentosin that seep out causing uneven deployment, when all other components remain fully functional.

my 964 and 993 both had deployable spoilers but they never failed as they were not hydraulically operated. porsche really "rube goldberged" this one.

i was determined to try and find a workable solution to maintaining the oem functionality of the turbo spoilers and have had a strosek aftermarket wing affixed to this car and as i've said re-bled it several times using the procedure below.

i also purchased the "fixed wing e-bay kit solution" for $150.00 many years ago, never used it ( rebleeds work! ) and just happened upon that box of 12$'s worth of home depot DIY parts and they are still intact and undamaged by the ravages of time in the original shipping box sent to me by the ebay maker/username "sbrtampa". ( if memory serves ha ).

if the rams and pump still work?

try this and good luck:


1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
it reads as actually more difficult than it is. but be warned, i always say that and am only standing and watching the rebreeds go down. first time it will take you while to equalize the fluid from left top right.

 

. Here is some info on the factory wing, including comparisons to prior variants by Porsche, trying to reduce rear end lift. I read somewhere that when the wing is down, at lower speeds, it aids engine cooling. https://rennkit.com/why-factory-set-fails/

 

Thanks for the info Dave. As an update I disassembled the pump, drained and flushed the cylinders, installed new 19mm OD/14mm ID/2.5mm thickness crush washers and verified all others were fine, then buttoned everything back up and rebled (thanks 02996ttx50) and its working well with no leaks, even lift and no warnings. The original crush washers were crushed too much and one was leaking as it was was slightly off center and shredded so I'm surprised it held at all. I have all paperwork from the original owner and am surprised that this was never rebuilt, rather it came from the factory that way.

On to the next project!

 

congrats! another DIY "spolier save" for the books.

 

If it had been anything else I don't think it would be have been serviceable. Lucky.