Need advice on buying replacement clutch for my set-up
#1
Need advice on buying replacement clutch for my set-up
All,
Would appreciate your insights. My 2004 Turbo cab seems to be running on it's last legs as it pertains to the (still OEM) clutch.
The car has 45K miles on it and has been modified since it had 11K miles on the counter.
Following are the mods :
One other consideration when recommending and ideal package would be that I got so tired of replacing the hydraulic assisted clutch slave that I swapped it for a BBI unit. This is similar to a GT2 set-up and results in a good leg workout. I don't mind, but my wife who regularly drives the car wouldn't mind some les resistance in the pedal feel.
Any recommendations ?
Would appreciate your insights. My 2004 Turbo cab seems to be running on it's last legs as it pertains to the (still OEM) clutch.
The car has 45K miles on it and has been modified since it had 11K miles on the counter.
Following are the mods :
- BMC filter
- GT2 intercoolers
- Billet DV
- Zero Clearance hybrid turbos
- FVD flash
- Europipe (100 cel cats)
One other consideration when recommending and ideal package would be that I got so tired of replacing the hydraulic assisted clutch slave that I swapped it for a BBI unit. This is similar to a GT2 set-up and results in a good leg workout. I don't mind, but my wife who regularly drives the car wouldn't mind some les resistance in the pedal feel.
Any recommendations ?
#2
All,
Would appreciate your insights. My 2004 Turbo cab seems to be running on it's last legs as it pertains to the (still OEM) clutch.
The car has 45K miles on it and has been modified since it had 11K miles on the counter.
Following are the mods :
One other consideration when recommending and ideal package would be that I got so tired of replacing the hydraulic assisted clutch slave that I swapped it for a BBI unit. This is similar to a GT2 set-up and results in a good leg workout. I don't mind, but my wife who regularly drives the car wouldn't mind some les resistance in the pedal feel.
Any recommendations ?
Would appreciate your insights. My 2004 Turbo cab seems to be running on it's last legs as it pertains to the (still OEM) clutch.
The car has 45K miles on it and has been modified since it had 11K miles on the counter.
Following are the mods :
- BMC filter
- GT2 intercoolers
- Billet DV
- Zero Clearance hybrid turbos
- FVD flash
- Europipe (100 cel cats)
One other consideration when recommending and ideal package would be that I got so tired of replacing the hydraulic assisted clutch slave that I swapped it for a BBI unit. This is similar to a GT2 set-up and results in a good leg workout. I don't mind, but my wife who regularly drives the car wouldn't mind some les resistance in the pedal feel.
Any recommendations ?
The car required minimal clutch slippage to get the car moving and of course when up or down shifting I was very smooth when engaging the clutch. So not to put too fine a point on it but maybe you need to reconsider how you use the clutch?
(Managed 317K miles out of my Boxster's clutch.)
Two is any aftermarket clutch will have an even higher pedal pressure. Not sure why the clutch slave cylinder was failing. My Turbo manifested this problem at some point and the tech replaced it and replaced the hardware that was no longer able to maintain boost after the engine was shut off. This was done under the CPO warranty which expired June 2011 and with around 50K miles on the car and I drove the car to 161K miles with no further signs of any clutch slave or boost issues.
#3
The go to clutch upgrade is called the Sachs 2.5 kit here. It is a frankenstein kit setup with an upgraded disc from one of the GT cars (if I remember correctly) and a stronger pressure plate. Search for Sachs 2.5 and you will find it. The clutch will be heavy, no fix for that.
#4
Thank you for the advice. There's obviously a big difference between maintaining a stock car and a modified one. I've been around this forum for a while and recall reading that some people can only get limited time out of their OEM clutch after upgrading it (e.g. UMW packages), hence my statement that I feel lucky to get 45K miles out of it.
As it pertains to the stiffness of the pedal : can any change be made by changing the flywheel ?
As it pertains to the stiffness of the pedal : can any change be made by changing the flywheel ?
#5
i run at similar power levels with *most* bolt on's. my last clutch lasted 100k miles +/- and never once slipped, before i replaced it.
another option forgoing the 764 plate ( incl in what is commonly and anecdotally referred to as the sachs 2.5 "kit" ) would be to simply replace with oem sachs ( for 996 turbo ) and simply upgrade to the 996 gt2 disc which is "unsprung", unlike the "sprung" oem disc is. it is rigid and the unsprung gt2 disc will handle a bit more "abuse" if that's your "thing".
the 996 gt2 disc and will handle easily power levels of 450+ bhp.
it reads as if you've already gone the bbi route for the accumulator issues common with the normally hyd assisted setup. my solution to swapping out accumulators bi-annually, was to simply disconnect the clutch "switch" at the pedal that required the clutch be engaged pre startup which causes "undue pressure" to the slave/accumulator precipitating premature failure.
i haven't had the need to replace an accumulator in the 7 +/- years since this simple remedy. nor, have i forgotten to ensure i am neutral before i turn the ignition. for that would be a "problem" lol.
gl, whatever you decide.
another option forgoing the 764 plate ( incl in what is commonly and anecdotally referred to as the sachs 2.5 "kit" ) would be to simply replace with oem sachs ( for 996 turbo ) and simply upgrade to the 996 gt2 disc which is "unsprung", unlike the "sprung" oem disc is. it is rigid and the unsprung gt2 disc will handle a bit more "abuse" if that's your "thing".
the 996 gt2 disc and will handle easily power levels of 450+ bhp.
it reads as if you've already gone the bbi route for the accumulator issues common with the normally hyd assisted setup. my solution to swapping out accumulators bi-annually, was to simply disconnect the clutch "switch" at the pedal that required the clutch be engaged pre startup which causes "undue pressure" to the slave/accumulator precipitating premature failure.
i haven't had the need to replace an accumulator in the 7 +/- years since this simple remedy. nor, have i forgotten to ensure i am neutral before i turn the ignition. for that would be a "problem" lol.
gl, whatever you decide.
#6
Have an 04 996tt originally equipped with an assisted clutch slave which I replaced with a BBI setup. Resistance can be altered with the clutch assist spring of which I believe several are available. I am running a GT2 which is a heavier than stock spring and am quite happy with the results.
#7
Thank you for the advice. There's obviously a big difference between maintaining a stock car and a modified one. I've been around this forum for a while and recall reading that some people can only get limited time out of their OEM clutch after upgrading it (e.g. UMW packages), hence my statement that I feel lucky to get 45K miles out of it.
As it pertains to the stiffness of the pedal : can any change be made by changing the flywheel ?
As it pertains to the stiffness of the pedal : can any change be made by changing the flywheel ?
Last edited by brnrdtns; 12-10-2019 at 10:21 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johnny.dangerous
6speed Technical Information forum
3
04-07-2014 02:43 AM