I discovered a tiny leak (fluid) on the passenger side hydraulic of the rear spoiler. I wonder if it means just to replace the hydraulic/hinge or I have to replace the entire system?

Thanks!

 

you can bleed the system once a year if its leaking or have it rebuilt.

 

Thank you so much for the tip. Let me look into how to bleed or rebuild.

 

try this. ive done it three times at least over ten years. works like a charm

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light

 

@Bozbomber Have you had a chance to give this project a go? If so, Did it work? If not, when you do, let us know what it was that was the actual leak point. Thank you!

 

Hi Cagiva, no, I have not had a chance to work on this project. I've been swamped between work and kid at home while we are still SIP in CA and have many conference calls in the evenings. Here is the photo of the actual leak point I discovered on one side of the ram.

 

I have one of these guys sitting on my workbench. This is what it looks like when you pop the bottom cap off.

 

Thank you Cagiva! I will find time to pop off the bottom cap to take a look this weekend and take some more pictures.

Peter

 

So here is what it looks like underneath the cap, I forgot to take a picture before i wiped off but can still see the fluid. I also noticed the driver side hinge is touching against the modified inlet pipe.

 

I use to get these rebuilt with new seals but the bleed procedure was such a pain to perform, I would rather replace.

 

Do yourself a favor and get the Rennkit.

 

Agreed. I fought my hydraulics for more than a few years. They're still in good shape, but always managed to have a slight leak. Wasn't worth it. Should have bought e-rams sooner!!

 

I am interested in Rennkit but may not have enough clearance since the factory hydraulic cylinder already touching against the inlet pipe.

 

we have various sizes For the eRam Kit and the ability To adjust for tight clearance. Email me and I’ll send you the guideline, info@rennkit.com

 

Definitely need to look at the eram kit!