jags911tt: I'm surprised this didn't get done by MaxRPM before giving the car back to you. In my opinion this should have been done. Why would they give you back the car with the new modifications and not check the AFR? Does MaxRPM not have the capability to do this? I would say to stay off boost, if possible , until you know your AFRs. Just because the car feels like it's running right doesn't mean much. It doesn't take long to damage your engine if it isn't properly tuned. I'm sure the last thing you want is a jacked up cylinder. Especially after so much has been done to your car.

If it isn't too much trouble I would like a ride in your car once it's tuned.

 

Well there is no tuning involved because the software comes from GIAC. The purpose for the afr is to make sure that all the new piping is not leaking. The car is making full boost 1.6bar. And yes I will take you for a ride no probs

Jags

 

By tuning I meant everything working correctly. Sorry I didn't make it clear. Yeah GIAC has done the tuning but if something isn't installed properly the tuning is useless. For example the piping leaking.

I am looking forward to that ride.

 

Hey Jags,

forgive my ignorance, but what is afr? is this something that I have to worry about with the stg 4 package? I don't have new pipes or hoses. My car hasn't been dynoed yet. Maybe I'll wait until they fix all the bugs?

 

willcoxmd: I'm not Jag's but I'll quickly answer. AFR = Air Fuel Ratio. Proper AFRs are important no matter what stage car you have. There is less to worry about on a stock from the factory car but once you start upgrading it's something you should really pay attention to.

 

Thanks for the answer.
Jags

 

AFR does involve Motronic FI tuning. Off the shell bolt on upgrades comes only with preckaged/pretuned ECU. There is no tuning being done at time of installation. Only a handful of people can truly tune Motronic ie., Ruf, Manthey, RS, Protomotive and GIAC. Custom tuning cost a lot of money and time, but the payoffs are far more beneficial.

 

Exactly Vince!

 

vincentdds: Just because a package comes with a pretuned ECU it doesn't mean it is the correct tune. There is always room for human error. The wrong ECU upgrade could have been sent. I never mentioned to tune on the dyno. I would dyno to check AFRs and make sure everything is working as it should. I would never assume that what was sent to me is 100% correct. If everything checks out okay you spent a few $100. Compare to what some people spend on upgrades it is a very minimal amount to spend to make sure all is well. Some people put their full confidence in what's sent to them. I just like to make sure for myself.

 

Also true

Jags

 

All I can say is that .. now that I think about it... I would never put a pretuned ecu in evo 8 tahst doing 700+ hp... it took us 3 tries b4 we dunoed in the car... always somenthing comes up....

 

Why does everyone think that a dyno is the only way to check your fuel/air ratios? Sounds like great marketing from dyno operators found alot of gullable people as customers.

 

That's precisely my point. Custom dyno tuning allow one to check and verify all parameters to finer details. With Pretuned ECU what you see is what you get. You can check all you want but if you don't have the capability to see and change these parameter what's the point. I think you are confused the issue of hardware with software.

 

1999Porsche911: When I tuned my 944 turbo with stand alone I did some tuing on the dyno but also in real driving conditions. It was tuned at cold start, hot start, highway crusing, normal street driving, etc. This is a better method but I wouldn't have wanted to do this on my own. Luckily the installer lived locally so we would go out for drives to tune the car. I prefer this method if at all possible.

vincentdds: The point is that even if you can't see all the parameters in the software, since it isn't a stand alone setup, you can get a general idea of how the car is running.

 

Yes because it 's Motronic ECU and not standalone ie.,Motec or Wolf or AEM it is not easy for one to verify cold start, driveability, boost and timing on the dyno unless one have the capability to do so. Thus the best altenative approach is to drive the car and check for sign of choking, smokes, boost spikes and power delivery...ect..