15,000 mile service
#1
15,000 mile service
My car is due for its 15,000 mile service soon and I was wondering what does this service include? Also, I had my ECU reprogrammed a while back (by Gemballa). Do I need to worry about the technicians reverting the ECU back to stock settings? How much should I expect to pay? Any feedback would be great. Thanks!
#2
You and I must be on the same wavelength b/c I was just about to ask this same question...although im about 1600miles past due!
I've always done the maintenance on my cars and so far i've only changed the oil on this car. I changed the oil about 1K miles ago, so my additional question is....What else is a "MUST DO" for the car at this interval? I've read that the oil, oil filter and fuel filter is all that is done at the 15K service. Is this true? If so, is the fuel filter change a DIY job?
So far i've done my own oil changes, installed my exhaust, took out my ecu (no brainer) and installed my evo DVs. Would this level of mechanical competence be worthy of replacing my fuel filter without much difficulty?
I've always done the maintenance on my cars and so far i've only changed the oil on this car. I changed the oil about 1K miles ago, so my additional question is....What else is a "MUST DO" for the car at this interval? I've read that the oil, oil filter and fuel filter is all that is done at the 15K service. Is this true? If so, is the fuel filter change a DIY job?
So far i've done my own oil changes, installed my exhaust, took out my ecu (no brainer) and installed my evo DVs. Would this level of mechanical competence be worthy of replacing my fuel filter without much difficulty?
#3
Here's the info I have. I don't know if it's any different for a Turbo. Most are just checks, but the particle filter is replaced (this is the cabin filter, not the engine air filter).
-Scott
Major maintenance at:
15,000; 45,000; 75,000 and 105,000 miles
Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Underside of vehicle and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and chafine (wires, lines and hoses)
Underbody paneling: Check that the underbody paneling is securely fastened - replace any damaged and/or missing panels.
Power-assisted steering: Check fluid level
Coolant hoses: Check condition. Radiators and air inlets: Visual inspection for external debris and blockage
Coolant: check level and anitfreeze
Particle filter: Replace filter element
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for signs of damage, correct routing and corrosion
Brake fluid: Check level
Drive shaft: Visual inspection of the boots for leaks and signs of damage
Tires and spare wheel: Check condition and tire pressure
Door locks, lid locks and safety hook of the front lid, Check to ensure that they are adjusted correctly and function properly
Vehicle lights: Check operation
All headlights: Check setting
Horn: Check operation
Windshield washer, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, make sure to check the antifreeze during winter months
All other electrical equipment as well as indicator and warning lights: Check operation
During road or dynamometer test:
Brake pedal and parking brake (also operating travel), engine, clutch, transmission, automatic speed control, steering system, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Operation-test
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks
-Scott
Major maintenance at:
15,000; 45,000; 75,000 and 105,000 miles
Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
Underside of vehicle and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and chafine (wires, lines and hoses)
Underbody paneling: Check that the underbody paneling is securely fastened - replace any damaged and/or missing panels.
Power-assisted steering: Check fluid level
Coolant hoses: Check condition. Radiators and air inlets: Visual inspection for external debris and blockage
Coolant: check level and anitfreeze
Particle filter: Replace filter element
Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for signs of damage, correct routing and corrosion
Brake fluid: Check level
Drive shaft: Visual inspection of the boots for leaks and signs of damage
Tires and spare wheel: Check condition and tire pressure
Door locks, lid locks and safety hook of the front lid, Check to ensure that they are adjusted correctly and function properly
Vehicle lights: Check operation
All headlights: Check setting
Horn: Check operation
Windshield washer, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings, make sure to check the antifreeze during winter months
All other electrical equipment as well as indicator and warning lights: Check operation
During road or dynamometer test:
Brake pedal and parking brake (also operating travel), engine, clutch, transmission, automatic speed control, steering system, heating, air-conditioning system and instruments: Operation-test
Oils, fluids: Visual inspection for leaks
#4
Is it best to just go to the dealer for this sort of check up or rather an independent Porsche Shop?
If I take it to my dealer, I have to wait until the end of January (who knows how many miles I have by then). The price is only $300 (reg. is 550.00...however dealer will deduct 250.00 for the oil change since I already did that myself), but im wondering if a good independant porsche shop will do a more thorough job. I've always had sub-par service from dealers, so im just curious what the consensus is on this one.
Im assuming dealers are the only ones with new software updates?
If I take it to my dealer, I have to wait until the end of January (who knows how many miles I have by then). The price is only $300 (reg. is 550.00...however dealer will deduct 250.00 for the oil change since I already did that myself), but im wondering if a good independant porsche shop will do a more thorough job. I've always had sub-par service from dealers, so im just curious what the consensus is on this one.
Im assuming dealers are the only ones with new software updates?
#5
wow!
$250 for an oil change?
Just did one on my Turbo today and the cost was:
Filter and gaskets: $18
Oil (Mobile 1 0w-40) $45
For a grand total of $63 and about 30 minutes labor.
Any dealer charging $250 for an oil change is flat ripping people off.
Joe West
Just did one on my Turbo today and the cost was:
Filter and gaskets: $18
Oil (Mobile 1 0w-40) $45
For a grand total of $63 and about 30 minutes labor.
Any dealer charging $250 for an oil change is flat ripping people off.
Joe West
#6
Re: wow!
Originally posted by Joe West
$250 for an oil change?
Any dealer charging $250 for an oil change is flat ripping people off.
Joe West
$250 for an oil change?
Any dealer charging $250 for an oil change is flat ripping people off.
Joe West
#7
Heck... if there were more owners here in Arizona who were on this board, I'd teach a how-to class at my home so others could learn how easy it is. I suspect however, that most people would just as soon pay to get it done as learn to do it themselves.
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#8
I love DIYing stuff on my car...there is a certain satisfaction and sense of achievement you get from DIY jobs especially if like me you trust no one with your car and are a perfectionist who believes that no one doeas a good/as careful job as you
#9
You hit it right on the nose...
I don't trust ANYONE with my Porsche more than I trust myself... very few mechanics exist which will take as good as care of my Porsche as I will...
For example with an oil change... will they take a torque wrench and tighten the plugs to spec? Will they put a wrench on the oil tank to counteract the force of removing and installing the oil tank drain plug?
Quite honestly.... I doubt they will.
But I know I will...
Joe West
For example with an oil change... will they take a torque wrench and tighten the plugs to spec? Will they put a wrench on the oil tank to counteract the force of removing and installing the oil tank drain plug?
Quite honestly.... I doubt they will.
But I know I will...
Joe West
#10
Forgive my ignorance as a new 996TT owner, but where can I find the procedures for DIY oil change?
One of the things that I notice after coming onboard to the P-car world, is that the board traffic seems to be much less than bimmerfet.com and roadfly...
I came from the E46 M3, and changing oil was so easy on that car. On the same note, where can I get a set of shop manual for a good price?
Andy
One of the things that I notice after coming onboard to the P-car world, is that the board traffic seems to be much less than bimmerfet.com and roadfly...
I came from the E46 M3, and changing oil was so easy on that car. On the same note, where can I get a set of shop manual for a good price?
Andy
#11
DIY Oil Change Procedure...
Andy,
You can perform a search of this group and find the Do It Yourself (DIY) procedures for changing the oil on your turbo.
Here is a brief overview:
Jack up the rear of your Porsche and place jack stands under the right and left rear jacking points.
Using a 19mm socket AND a wrench to counteract the force you are applying with the socket, loosen the drain plug on the oil tank located under the car right hand rear side... you can't miss it. It is roughly located adjacent to the right rear tire... Most (probably 7.5 quarts or so) will drain from this location. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 60Nm (44ftlb)
Using a 15mm socket, loosen the crankcase drain plug (points to the left roughly center of the crankcase) and drain another quart or so of oil. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 70Nm (52ftlb).
Using the appropriate allen head socket, drain the left and right turbo oil tanks (located right under the turbo and drain plugs point down). After draining, torque to 30Nm (22ftlb).
Open your engine compartment and right in front of you there will be a black cap (roughly the size of a small oil filter) on the left center of the engine pointing rearward) with the text 25Nm and a clockwise arrow on it... this is your oil filter cap. Loosen the cap using the appropriate filter socket from either Porsche or from another auto parts store (even the strap type filter wrenches work). After removing the cap... pull out the filter cartridge and dispose of it. Replace the large o-ring on the cap and the small o-ring on the extension of the cap. Take a rag and sop up all the oil that has pooled up in the filter housing... the more you soak up, the better). Wipe the housing and cap down with a clean rag.
Install a new filter cartridge, install the cap and torque to 25Nm (19ftlb).
Refill your crankcase with 8.5 quarts of oil. Remove jackstands and level vehicle. Start vehicle and check for any leaks and allow it to warm up. When vehicle is warm enough to check oil level... perform an oil level check using the onboard computer. Top off until oil measurement is at the top mark or one to two marks below the top mark (There are some in the group which don't like it at the top mark... but I prefer it there). My experience is that it takes roughly 8.75 quarts to fill to the top mark.
Well... there you have a rough overview... do a search and I'm sure you'll find more instructions.
Kind Regards,
Joe West
You can perform a search of this group and find the Do It Yourself (DIY) procedures for changing the oil on your turbo.
Here is a brief overview:
Jack up the rear of your Porsche and place jack stands under the right and left rear jacking points.
Using a 19mm socket AND a wrench to counteract the force you are applying with the socket, loosen the drain plug on the oil tank located under the car right hand rear side... you can't miss it. It is roughly located adjacent to the right rear tire... Most (probably 7.5 quarts or so) will drain from this location. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 60Nm (44ftlb)
Using a 15mm socket, loosen the crankcase drain plug (points to the left roughly center of the crankcase) and drain another quart or so of oil. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 70Nm (52ftlb).
Using the appropriate allen head socket, drain the left and right turbo oil tanks (located right under the turbo and drain plugs point down). After draining, torque to 30Nm (22ftlb).
Open your engine compartment and right in front of you there will be a black cap (roughly the size of a small oil filter) on the left center of the engine pointing rearward) with the text 25Nm and a clockwise arrow on it... this is your oil filter cap. Loosen the cap using the appropriate filter socket from either Porsche or from another auto parts store (even the strap type filter wrenches work). After removing the cap... pull out the filter cartridge and dispose of it. Replace the large o-ring on the cap and the small o-ring on the extension of the cap. Take a rag and sop up all the oil that has pooled up in the filter housing... the more you soak up, the better). Wipe the housing and cap down with a clean rag.
Install a new filter cartridge, install the cap and torque to 25Nm (19ftlb).
Refill your crankcase with 8.5 quarts of oil. Remove jackstands and level vehicle. Start vehicle and check for any leaks and allow it to warm up. When vehicle is warm enough to check oil level... perform an oil level check using the onboard computer. Top off until oil measurement is at the top mark or one to two marks below the top mark (There are some in the group which don't like it at the top mark... but I prefer it there). My experience is that it takes roughly 8.75 quarts to fill to the top mark.
Well... there you have a rough overview... do a search and I'm sure you'll find more instructions.
Kind Regards,
Joe West
#13
Thanks for posting the procedures.
I plan on changing the oil after the 2000 mile breakin, it should be interesting.
My car came from the dealer 10 pounds under inflated on all four tires, and about 10ft/lbs under torqued on all four wheels.
I plan on changing the oil after the 2000 mile breakin, it should be interesting.
My car came from the dealer 10 pounds under inflated on all four tires, and about 10ft/lbs under torqued on all four wheels.
#15
Re: DIY Oil Change Procedure...
Originally posted by Joe West
Using a 19mm socket AND a wrench to counteract the force you are applying with the socket, loosen the drain plug on the oil tank located under the car right hand rear side... you can't miss it. It is roughly located adjacent to the right rear tire... Most (probably 7.5 quarts or so) will drain from this location. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 60Nm (44ftlb)
Using a 15mm socket, loosen the crankcase drain plug (points to the left roughly center of the crankcase) and drain another quart or so of oil. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 70Nm (52ftlb).
Using a 19mm socket AND a wrench to counteract the force you are applying with the socket, loosen the drain plug on the oil tank located under the car right hand rear side... you can't miss it. It is roughly located adjacent to the right rear tire... Most (probably 7.5 quarts or so) will drain from this location. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 60Nm (44ftlb)
Using a 15mm socket, loosen the crankcase drain plug (points to the left roughly center of the crankcase) and drain another quart or so of oil. After draining, install a new metal crush washer and torque to 70Nm (52ftlb).