Strange. My PSM never comes on when it's turned off.

 

Yes. Seriously. It will be faster around corners, in a straight line, and even stop in a shorter distance. Do the conversion properly, use proper tires...and you will love it.

 

Dont start this again, I know when my car is slower and when it's not, LSD has nothing to do with straight line accleration from a roll, when there are no traction issues. And front drivetrain drag does not have THAT big of an affect on accleration under 100 mph not to mention the AWD car faces the same drag, so all things being equal, AWD is better for this car. Let's put the LSD on the AWD and remove the 70 lbs from somewhere else and see what happens.

And you will continue to make assumptions that are wrong, when you drive something other than drag racing and 60-130's then maybe I'll listen to what you have to say, until then I'll stick w/ AWD. I'll leave the wanna be GT2's to you guys

 

Try telling yourself that instead of me? You're the one that continues to try and convince people that you know something you actually do not.

Agreed.

Disagree.

Since you failed to convert properly, you really have no idea why your car was slower. But since you can't argue with physics...the only possible reason was the drag caused by the front drivetrain components that you left in place.

Since they were not being turned like they normally are from the torque created from the engine via a gear advantaged transmission, they were being turned through the front tires being rolled on the ground, which were being turned from torque from the rear tires. The friction in the front drivetrain was putting a tremendous amount of drag on the car...especially at high speeds. You might as well as have had a e-brake installed and slightly engaged on the front of your car.

Nope. Unless you are taking your car mud-bogging or through snow...RWD is better for this car.

You'll still have more drivetrain loss.

That damn physics stuff. Just can't make it go-away no matter how hard you try, huh?

You don't have to listen to what I have to say. Just stop trying to BS people on this forum that you know what you are talking about, since you really have no clue. If you want to post your experiences, that's fine. But each time you fail to clarify that you did not actually do the conversion properly....it's skews your statements. That's why I always make sure I tell people the real deal.

I hate it break it you, Dez....but you don't have a free-license to BS the members of this forum.

As far as your car, I *want* you to keep it AWD. Since I personally do not believe you're a good enough driver to handle it in a proper RWD conversion. Of course I want my Danica Patrick wanna-be to be safe out there on her "roadcourse".

 

I don't think your car is set up correctly if psm is kicking on that easily. at big willow the "big sweeper" turn 9 is a super high speed long sweeper and my psm has never turned on. never. I have still quite abit left on the table with lap times in the low 1;30's. my suspension is pretty much maxed out at this point and the psm still never has kicked on.

 

I guess it would have some relevance to how hard you drive the car, mine is pushed to the limit. As you may know 4 wheel drifting and trail braking are different techniques used in racing to compensate for various poor handling characteristics of certain cars and plain managing dificult turns at some track.

You may not know the PSM is working when it is, if you have a decreasing radius, double apex sweeper (i.e. Roebling Road has 3 of them) and you have your foot hovering over the brake for a moment, you can feel the PSM kicking in slightly, the light doesnt come back on but the PSM is still working. I didnt realize it until recently taking these kinds of turns at the edge of traction.

 

Scott, I have repeatedly stated that I did not do the whole conversion, every time I make the point. I have stated what I know to be fact, that the car moved faster in a straight line with the Torque Tube Removed. I have also stated that LSD has no relevance to the acceleration figures I am talking about because traction was not an issue at the time. So you're telling me that the drag, which is also present on the AWD but being pushed by 5% power being transferred is causing that much of a difference in accleration when you also say that you have less drivetrain loss with RWD meaning you're putting more power to the ground anyways. Come on man!!!!!


You're just trying to make up reasons from afar when you dont know jack about my car. All you can do is assume, call your mechanic and tell him your car is making a funny noise from the back somewhere while accelerating and what will he tell you? Could be this or that, but I need to see it to make sure, yet you're better than the mechanic because you can tell me whats going on with my car without seeing it or driving it or anything, but you are so sure of your assessments. What shop do you run? That's what I thought.

What exactly am I saying that is b.s. to you?

-My car is faster with the torque tube in than out?
-I have acceleration G's and lap time segments to prove it?
-The Turbo was manufactured as an AWD car?
-The Turbo has luxury steering not meant for high power and RWD?
-The Turbo needs way to much work to REALLY be a proper RWD car?
-Just the LSD and drivetrain removal wont give you anything near a GT2?
-The steering is too soft to handle lots of power, and the GT2 is considered a widowmaker (try a turbo trying to be a GT2)
-You still need to lose 400 lbs, change not only many of the front suspension parts (not just setup) but motor mounts, sway bars etc to put the car in the same ball park?
-There is not enough drag from a front differential alone to cause my car to slow down the way it did?



LOL I cant handle RWD? HAHA, you willing to put your 1000hp on the track to prove it? I'll beat you on any road course you can find in RWD or AWD with PSM on or off.

 

what does a whole conversion consist of? easy to do?

 

I can definately feel psm kicking on but it's always from my mis adventures. from my personal experience psm rewards smoothness. sure if you are pushing the car to the point of psm is kicking in then you are at the limit or very close. there's a reason why it's kicking on, if you are at the limit constantly and want to go over the limit you will eventually lose it. theres a long list of GT2 and GT3 guys that have gone past the limit, they will all tell you it just went. once it's gone it's gone. no turning back.

 

also, from my personal experience psm is sensitve to suspension setups, you may want to check or experiment. when ever I have felt psm kick on in a corner on the track I have experimented and have turned off the psm approached the corner in the same approach I have lost it.

if you want to drive sideways get another car.

 

Mine never came on either, but I didn't have the power you guys do!

 

How do you know it's not? How's the rear pad wear?

And BTW, does your insurance company know that you are doing timed trials? I frankly don't know any that actually covers timed trials. DE without timing devices is covered by many still.

 

Here we go again. Trail braking will trip PSM every time in the 996 Turbo. And no, I don't mean the dash light flashing, I mean, pay attention to the noises in the rear, and the fact that your car is not behaving naturally by that damn pause. Yes, the pause caused by the differential braking.

And where is this long list of GT2/3 drivers that said "it just went?"

GT2/3's are very predictable as far as that goes if you have basic RWD trainning. Being able to feel the car is something that cars like the Turbo try to insulate the driver from. I suppose if that's all that you are used to, then you would think the GT2/3 are death traps.

But just because you think it cannot be done doesn't make it so. In fact, GT cars are easier to drive sideways than a hamster powered E36 M3.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavychevy

Scott, I have repeatedly stated that I did not do the whole conversion, every time I make the point. I have stated what I know to be fact, that the car moved faster in a straight line with the Torque Tube Removed. I have also stated that LSD has no relevance to the acceleration figures I am talking about because traction was not an issue at the time.

As have I.

Quote:

So you're telling me that the drag, which is also present on the AWD but being pushed by 5% power

That's 5% minimum. 40% maximum. Whichever is needed.

Quote:

being transferred is causing that much of a difference in acceleration when you also say that you have less drivetrain loss with RWD meaning you're putting more power to the ground anyways. Come on man!!!!!

You're not getting the full drivetrain loss advantage since your car still has to push and turn the friction-inhibited front end components through the front tires. Not sure why you find this so difficult to understand.

Quote:

You're just trying to make up reasons from afar when you dont know jack about my car.

I know that you set up RWD improperly, and that you can not accurately state that RWD is "bad for Porsche Turbos" since you have never tried it the correct way. There isn't anything more I need to know that's relevant to this topic.

Quote:

All you can do is assume, call your mechanic and tell him your car is making a funny noise from the back somewhere while accelerating and what will he tell you? Could be this or that, but I need to see it to make sure, yet you're better than the mechanic because you can tell me what’s going on with my car without seeing it or driving it or anything, but you are so sure of your assessments. What shop do you run? That's what I thought.

But you've already told us what the problem is. Your conversion process.

If someone tells me they only installed 1 bolt on a new set of headers, and for some reason their car is now losing power and making a very loud exhaust noise near their engine...I don't need to physically inspect their car to know that they need to tighten all the header bolts and try again. Same concept here.

Quote:

What exactly am I saying that is b.s. to you?

No, I agree with that since you didn't perform the conversion properly.

Quote:

I have acceleration G's and lap time segments to prove it?

Same as above.

Quote:

-The Turbo was manufactured as an AWD car?

Agree

Quote:

-The Turbo has luxury steering not meant for high power and RWD?

Disagree. You simply wouldn’t know.

Quote:

-The Turbo needs way to much work to REALLY be a proper RWD car?

Disagree. Again, you simply do not know.

Quote:

-Just the LSD and drivetrain removal wont give you anything near a GT2?

You're forgetting suspension. With those three items...*properly installed* the two cars handle almost identically as well.

Quote:

-The steering is too soft to handle lots of power

LOL...complete BS.

Quote:

-You still need to lose 400 lbs, change not only many of the front suspension parts (not just setup) but motor mounts, sway bars etc to put the car in the same ball park?

Agree that the weight needs to be reduced, but that's it. Motor mounts don't need to be changed, only a coil-over and adjustable rear-sway needs to be added (nothing more).

Quote:

-There is not enough drag from a front differential alone to cause my car to slow down the way it did?

So...you measured the resistance/drag of the front end to prove it's not enough? You tried a full RWD conversion and then compared the two times? Of course you've done neither.

Again, you have absolutely ZERO credibility to talk about RWD conversions since YOU'VE NEVER DONE ONE! That's why I'm calling you a BS’r. You've never done a proper RWD conversion, nor have you even set foot in a car that has a proper RWD conversion...yet you continually post disingenuous/BS posts about how bad they are....even though you have no actual experience with an actual RWD converted Porsche!

LOL...you still don't get it. Amazing.

Quote:

LOL I cant handle RWD? HAHA, you willing to put your 1000hp on the track to prove it? I'll beat you on any road course you can find in RWD or AWD with PSM on or off.

You should be very careful making assumptions about other's driving abilities. I wouldn't be at all surprised if I were to drive your car...and beat your own personal best lap times with less than a half-day of practice on your home track. It wouldn't be the first time I've done it.

 

It's relatively easy.

You remove the front half-shafts, front driveshaft, and the front differential. You then need to either install and corner-balance a coil-over system....or just corner-balance your exisiting system if you have one already.

If you plan on road-coursing the car, you should install LSD to prevent lift/wheelspsin in the corners.

If you do it right, the car will be faster in a straight-line, stop quicker and handle better. Guaranteed.

If you half-*** it like some people, you'll probably be dissapointed.