Its a short circuiting battery to me...

 

I pulled the fuses, and all looked fine. Was there a certain fuse you were thinking about? I see the relays that are in the same vicinity as the fuses, but there is no guide as to which relay does what. Is there a relay schematic anywhere online? Is there an easy way to check whether or not a relay works? They aren't visibly easy to inspect like a normal fuse is.

Thanks for the suggestions, one of them is bound to be the right answer. Keep them coming!

 

If it is flashed it will not matter. You are correct. If it is flashed correctly then it will start and not pose a problem. A soldered chip upgrade can be a problem if a CSJ exist. This is something that will stop data transfer and depending on what leg will kill the signal to the embolizer.

You can quickly pull back the black hood on the upper plug on the P/S of the car and check the starter line with a tester or OEM meter. I suggest always using an LED tester on later cars especially if it is a CAN car. If you want to test this line I will give you the pin out and color.

Very rarely do the starters go bad in these cars.

BTW I bet your creaking is the TOB arm. You oush the clutch in to start it, right? Well that is very common. If it ia humming then it is the fuel pump priming.

 

imobilzer..?

 

The battery is new... do you really think it's something with the battery? I tried to jumpstart the car, and that didn't work either. No clicking or anything coming from the starter motor. It sounds like there is an electrical issue with the signal going to the starter motor. Ignition switch maybe?

 

Sorry, embolizer.

Yes, it could be the electrical portion of the ignition switch. You have to test the lines to see if the signal is getting out.

 

I mean it can be the imobilizer, have you tried to lock and unlock the car, stupid question maybe..?

 

Stephen,

Can you let me (and the board) know how to test the starter line? I'm assuming you meant an ohm meter? What is the P/S of the car (I would have thought power steering, but that doesn't make sense...)?

If you can tell me which pins to test with the meter, that would be fantastic. I've spent 6 hours today learning about every fluid and wire in this car The humming must be the fuel pump priming like you said.

Also, is there an easy way to test the ignition switch wires as you suggested? Thanks a million!

 

Not a stupid question at all... I thought of that. I did lock and unlock the car. I even tried both of my keys. Still doesn't work...

 

I've been thinking more about the imobilizer issue... when I turn the key to the "start" position, I do hear a small "click" by the key. That makes me want to believe that the ignition switch is working (or at least responding), and perhaps even the clutch switch. Is there a way to check if the imobilizer is working? I assumed that since I could lock/unlock the car that my car was OK.

Battery is full, and a jumpstart didn't work... otherwise, I would have thought my battery is dead. This is driving me crazy...

 

I think it's a typical imoblizer problem

 

Any idea on how to fix it? If the immobilizer was the problem, would it only be with one key? Both of my keys won't start the car...

 

Maybe it has lost the memory and need to be progrmed again..?

 

Strange thing....we had a 996 towed in this weekend. No start. All the lights work, good battery and fuel pump primed. Sound familiar? Re tracked it down the electrical portion of the ignition switch. 50 bucks, replaced it and he is back on the road.

 

I've ordered an ignition switch, hopefully that will fix the problem! Another board suggested I unplug the clutch sensor wires, and then connect them with a paperclip. That doesn't sound like it would work, since I'm reading a voltage of 0v when the clutch switch is depressed. If I connect the two wires, wouldn't that mean I'm getting a 12 V signal, which is the same as if the switch WASN'T pressed?