Installed my new Brakes Today, Amazing Stopping Power
#16
yes, that one is a joke, but isn't some car actually using a set up along those lines, I think it has an extra caliper for the parking brake or something. I know I've seen it done but with one normal size and one little???
~ Jason
~ Jason
#17
I also do not believe it is a real installation. If people are joking about it stopping quicker, ... OK, but please understand that this is a common huge misconception many people have that bigger brakes stop faster. This is rarely true and I didn't want some people thinking it was.
#20
Great humor.
Hey guys, check out my new ride... I just calibrated the roof scoop and flushed the blinker fluid. Next is the wheel hub mod, just waiting for my sawzall, plasma torch, and left handed screwdriver/hammer combo from Bosch.
Hey guys, check out my new ride... I just calibrated the roof scoop and flushed the blinker fluid. Next is the wheel hub mod, just waiting for my sawzall, plasma torch, and left handed screwdriver/hammer combo from Bosch.
#21
Originally posted by Yupkwondo
yes, that one is a joke, but isn't some car actually using a set up along those lines, I think it has an extra caliper for the parking brake or something. I know I've seen it done but with one normal size and one little???
~ Jason
yes, that one is a joke, but isn't some car actually using a set up along those lines, I think it has an extra caliper for the parking brake or something. I know I've seen it done but with one normal size and one little???
~ Jason
#22
Buddy: At the risk of hijacking the thread, I don't have a definite answer yet. What I intend to do is put temperature sensors on my brakes and log the data at the track and then I will have a definitive answer.
I plan on putting in additional cooling ducts and changing to Pagid orange pads right off the bat. I recommend you do the same as most people say you can overheat the stock brakes.
After that, my opinion only, I would not upgrade the brakes unless you did it for bling. I doubt the additional brake mass is necessary even when running R compound.
I plan on putting in additional cooling ducts and changing to Pagid orange pads right off the bat. I recommend you do the same as most people say you can overheat the stock brakes.
After that, my opinion only, I would not upgrade the brakes unless you did it for bling. I doubt the additional brake mass is necessary even when running R compound.
#23
buddy - I think GT3 fornts are the way to go!! if you do them let us know as there was a clearance issue with the kit Gert sells ( ithink you need to switch the wheel carriers to GT2 or C4S ones...not really clear)
#24
When I did my Brembo Big Brake upgrade, I weighed each of the components. Following are the weights:
Stock Setup:
Front Rotor = 23 pounds
Front Caliper & pads = 13 pounds
Rear Rotor = 19 pounds
Rear Caliper and pads = 9 pounds
Brembo Setup:
Front 15†rotor = 27 pounds
Front 8 piston caliper, pads and bracket = 13.5 pounds
Rear 14†rotor = 18 pounds
Rear 4 piston caliper, pads and bracket = 10 pounds
Here are a few pictures:
So, the total weight penalties for each wheel are:
Front=4.5 pounds
Rear=0 pounds
You cannot argue that it is more unsprung weight so that is a detriment, but the heat dissipation should be improved with the greater surface area of the rotor and caliper.
Just my $0.02 for informational purposes. Not meant to debate anything.
The original write up can be found here:
http://216.7.163.99/~speedon/forums/...ighlight=debut
Stock Setup:
Front Rotor = 23 pounds
Front Caliper & pads = 13 pounds
Rear Rotor = 19 pounds
Rear Caliper and pads = 9 pounds
Brembo Setup:
Front 15†rotor = 27 pounds
Front 8 piston caliper, pads and bracket = 13.5 pounds
Rear 14†rotor = 18 pounds
Rear 4 piston caliper, pads and bracket = 10 pounds
Here are a few pictures:
So, the total weight penalties for each wheel are:
Front=4.5 pounds
Rear=0 pounds
You cannot argue that it is more unsprung weight so that is a detriment, but the heat dissipation should be improved with the greater surface area of the rotor and caliper.
Just my $0.02 for informational purposes. Not meant to debate anything.
The original write up can be found here:
http://216.7.163.99/~speedon/forums/...ighlight=debut
#25
I am planning on getting the GT3 cooling "shovels" as well. By the way, to dispel a myth, the cross drilling is not meant for cooling, that is the function of the internal vanes. I just thought I would add that here since I have heard people refer to the cross drilling used for cooling.
Last edited by KPV; 01-23-2004 at 11:48 AM.
#26
Yes it was all a joke...but now that everyone is being serious....
The purpose of cross drilling is more to do with gas dissapation. The holes give the gasses that build between the pads and rotors a place to escape...this is also the reason for slotting. There is too much heat in there for any water to exist in liquid form. Any moisture will only increase the amount of gas produced.
also, increased swept area will also help dissapate heat which inturn can reduce fade and decrease stopping distance and braking effectiveness as well as feel/feedback.
dave w
The purpose of cross drilling is more to do with gas dissapation. The holes give the gasses that build between the pads and rotors a place to escape...this is also the reason for slotting. There is too much heat in there for any water to exist in liquid form. Any moisture will only increase the amount of gas produced.
also, increased swept area will also help dissapate heat which inturn can reduce fade and decrease stopping distance and braking effectiveness as well as feel/feedback.
dave w
#27
Originally posted by KPV
I am planning on getting the GT3 cooling "shovels" as well. By the way, to dispel a myth, the cross drilling is not meant for cooling, that is the function of the internal vanes. The cross drilling is meant to reduce the water pressure build-up in wet weather braking. I just thought I would add that here since I have heard people refer to the cross drilling used for cooling.
I am planning on getting the GT3 cooling "shovels" as well. By the way, to dispel a myth, the cross drilling is not meant for cooling, that is the function of the internal vanes. The cross drilling is meant to reduce the water pressure build-up in wet weather braking. I just thought I would add that here since I have heard people refer to the cross drilling used for cooling.
#28
Ken, I think you made a typo and meant to say that 9 lbs more unsprung weight is a detriment but greater heat absorption and radiating area is improved. I agree with that. But, what might be an even better comparison is the stock versus 4 or 6 piston brembos (or even GT-3 calipers) where you can save quite a bit of weight I think.
Zippy and Dave
My understanding is both of you area correct, the cross drilled holes are normally for removing gases from the pad itself and for easily releasing any water when present. They also reduce the rotating mass of the rotors quite a bit.
Buddy
Sorry, I will also change brake fluid to Castrol SRF.
Zippy and Dave
My understanding is both of you area correct, the cross drilled holes are normally for removing gases from the pad itself and for easily releasing any water when present. They also reduce the rotating mass of the rotors quite a bit.
Buddy
Sorry, I will also change brake fluid to Castrol SRF.
Last edited by ColorChange; 01-23-2004 at 01:43 PM.
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