To my knowledge he didnt do anything you couldnt buy or get from Evo, its not aftermarket stuff ! he has updated software and everything from them, its a new kit. I have no doubt it runs hard, but hes pushing some crazy boost, and its accurate too!

I know he upgraded a few things, nothing serious maybe he'll chime in or i'll ask him!

 

I did not say boost does not make hp.Reread what I said.Too many people get hung up on boost alone.IF i could run two cars with similar peak power but the one with more boost revs a little lower(lives longer) and makes broader more usable torque curve than thats what I would want and wouldn't get hung up on the .25bar difference.

 

Joe,
It was the quote of Vicious in your post that I was referring to. Is this getting confusing or what And I agree with the rest of your statement except the part where a higher boosting engine outlives an engine revving higher, it all depends how much of each and how it is used..You can control at what RPMs you shift and peak torque will remain unchanged as long as you shift after 5K RPMs or so....but dial down the boost to save your engine and you loose the torque..

Scott (Divexxtreme), Todd did not say that K16s can go anywhere beyond 600HP on a 996TT. If it is your car you are referring to, that is another story, we all agreed that sth. is different in your runs, as no other K16 based car ever got close to your trap speed. I don't see where this debate fits in this discussion though

Happy New Year.

 

Holy moly. Was that in Shootout mode? That is a stout number right there.

 

From what I've read throughout the forums, I get the impression that there is various customizing, specialized tuning and refining that can be done to "higher horsepower projects", which will create spectacular benefits. As mentioned in this thread, an example would be equal power using, relatively, less boost. Nevertheless, what I really like about the "high volume" EVOMS kits, specifically the GT700, is the transparent, "cookie cutter" aspect of it. In other words, I appreciate how easy it is to find out exactly what is going to be done to the engine (in detail), what the cost are, what the expected power should be and the numerious happy customers there are running around out there.

Though there will always be specialty customizing which can make any car just a little bit better than the next, I feel comfort knowing there are countless GT700 kits with the exact same set up and the owners have been very happy. I just wanted to give MAJOR KUDOS to EVOMS for making so many of these kits available to the "little guy", like me

 

Jean - what he posted was that K16's can produce 600 HP at 1.5 BAR...when you have always said that they were maxed out at 500 HP....and I never agreed with you on that. You've asked me numerous times in the past to ask him that exact question, but it seems he just answered it for us.

Sorry for the off-topic....and have a great New Year yourself.

 

Hate to disagree with a mod-- I don't think it is off topic.The K16 hybrids are of great interest to many. I think I have seen post re Kevin's hybrid K16 making that sort of number also.So any factual data/experience can only help inform.
Also worth noting-- there are still many coming to this forum that have not followed the blow by blow(no pun intended) evolution of the 996 TT performance gains and are only starting their path.

 

I didn't think it was off-topic either. But apparently Jean did, so I was being nice and apologizing.

Good points, Red.

 

Somebody negative repped me. Must of been one of the sponsors..

 

Interesting! I took my car out and checked the same thing.. I have been going off my OEM Boost/Bar guage and it states: 1.3 Bar on Race Fuel. My Greedy Boost controller is in my armrest, so I have not been looking at what the boost reading is on it due to driving with one hand and holding the armrest lid open at the same time... So yesterday, I took my wife with me and she held open the armrest lid and while my OEM Bar read: 1.3 Bar, my Greedy Boost Controller only read 1.22 -1.24 Bar. This 1.22 Bar was at 46% on the Boost Controller.

On my "Pump" or Low Boost setting, the OEM Bar Guage reads: 1.1 Bar and the Greedy Boost Controller is reading: 1.02 Bar @ 40%.

So, I guess my question is: What is a more accurate reading - The OEM Bar Guage in the Instrument Cluster or the Greedy Boost Controller? I would assume that the Greedy Would be just as or more accurate since it is tapped right into the boost line right?

If this is true then, I actually could up the boost just a bit on the Greedy Boost Guage to get the full 1.3 bar on Race Gas even though the OEM Bar Gauge may now say 1.4 Bar? Is this ok?

Scott, Marski & Others - Would ignoring the OEM Bar Guage and just going off the Greedy Boost Controller by the wise thing to do even if the OEM states 1.4 Bar and the Greedy states 1.3 Bar? Give me your advice please!

BTW: When my car put down the 490 AWHP, it was onlt at 46% @ 1.22 Bar.

 

Dave,
yes you are correct and the 1.22 bars can still not be accurate because when u let off the gas u get a spike... so ur actual boost at WOT maybe be even lower then 1.22 bars...
markski

 

That would depend on where the pressure reference is taken from. If it's on the intake manifold (imo where it should be) then you will not see a pressure spike as it's occurring before the throttle blades. If it's pre-tb then yes you will get a slight spike, but even so it won't matter as it's only spiking against the TB blades.

 

I have the exact same setup as far as the greddy boost controller.... and I get spikes when I let go of the TB.... yet it registers the Highest boost setting and thus the spike.... that's why I recommend looking at the greddy while in WOT....
markski

 

I agree, whenever wanted to see what i was boosting its always under WOT, you can see what you sustain, peak and spike at, but usually when you look at it after it tells you peak boost not sustained! Well at least in my friends turbo S2000 it does!

 

Makes sense! The 1.22 - 1.24 Bar was at WOT and not the final reading... I had my wife watch the Greedy Boost Controller the whole time from 2nd till the top of 4th.. She said it varied from 1.22 - 1.24ish... It never saw 1.3 Bar!

So basically I would be safe by reading what the Greedy Boost Guage states and tuning the boost according to that and NOT the OEM Guage? As I tune it up and get a reading of 1.3 Bar on the Greedy, I may see 1.4 Bar on the OEM - This is ok since I am only seeing 1.3 Bar on The Greedy - am I correct? I would figure like you said before, the Greedy will most likely be the most accurate over the OEM right? I just want to make sure I am not overboosting or doing it if the OEM is 1.4 and the Greey is 1.3 on 101 or 103 octane.....

Thanks Mark!