What's the most cost effective way to get 600hp?
#16
I got 630hp to flywheel from Kevin's programming, wastegate and EP2 exhaust alone. Don't evaluate tuning package by just peak hp but instead the whole entire power band and boost setting. You want tuning program with early and wide torque band at lowest boost setting.
#17
Originally Posted by vincentdds
I got 630hp to flywheel from Kevin's programming, wastegate and EP2 exhaust alone. Don't evaluate tuning package by just peak hp but instead the whole entire power band and boost setting. You want tuning program with early and wide torque band at lowest boost setting.
#18
Originally Posted by vincentdds
I got 630hp to flywheel from Kevin's programming, wastegate and EP2 exhaust alone. Don't evaluate tuning package by just peak hp but instead the whole entire power band and boost setting. You want tuning program with early and wide torque band at lowest boost setting.
#19
#20
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...o/Dyno%20Runs/
I have a similar graph. RWD X50 with Exhaust, Vflow, GIAC, Wastegates (IMO REQUIRED on K24 cars) and Diverter Valves running 91 octane on the 91 octane flash. The car was dynoed on an 80 degree day.
It's my version of the EVO stage 3.5 (stage 4 minus headers) using a Remus Exhaust.
That's 629HP at 18% loss or 590 at 12.5%. I think the 12% range is probably accurate given the rear engine layout and lack of a long drivetrain.
I have a similar graph. RWD X50 with Exhaust, Vflow, GIAC, Wastegates (IMO REQUIRED on K24 cars) and Diverter Valves running 91 octane on the 91 octane flash. The car was dynoed on an 80 degree day.
It's my version of the EVO stage 3.5 (stage 4 minus headers) using a Remus Exhaust.
That's 629HP at 18% loss or 590 at 12.5%. I think the 12% range is probably accurate given the rear engine layout and lack of a long drivetrain.
Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 02-11-2007 at 10:02 PM.
#22
Originally Posted by Alpha
Jags911tt -- Thanks for noticing. I am thinking of 600hp at the flywheel, not 700hp. I appreciate all the input from everyone. My intention is not to scrimp and save all the pennies that I can while trying to add more hp. I just figure that many on this board have been through a couple of different tuner packages on their way to the power they currently have, and would likely have thoughts on how to get to 600hp without spending a lot on intermediate steps.
I have my eye on the Ultimate Motor Werks Stage 2 turbos. Kevin tells me it is a hybrid K16/24 with a larger compressor. I would like as little lag as possible, but I'm not sure I need the "zero clearance" option. Any thoughts?
I have my eye on the Ultimate Motor Werks Stage 2 turbos. Kevin tells me it is a hybrid K16/24 with a larger compressor. I would like as little lag as possible, but I'm not sure I need the "zero clearance" option. Any thoughts?
Last edited by KPG; 02-11-2007 at 10:35 PM.
#24
Originally Posted by KPG
Alpha, I had that same kit and posted an 11.5 at 128.2 and a 7.93 60-130 with a near 3800# 01 TT.627FWHP/695FWTQ on a Mustang dyno. I did have the ZC option tough.I have some dyno sheets if you want to look at them. Great bang for the buck. I am moving up the tuning ladder at UMW to a built engine with bigger turbos...Kevin G
#25
Originally Posted by Alpha
Thanks KPG. I read your posts on Rennlist about your Zero Clearance experience. Very Nice!
#27
Originally Posted by jimmer23
What's the difference between the ZC and regular package anyway?
#28
Now my understanding of turbos is that the exhaust wheel and degree of clip has more of an impact on torque than the compressor housing would? Is the actual ZC housing different, or is it a different wheel combination?
I'll shoot Kevin an email to see what's up, thanks for the tip.
Rgds
I'll shoot Kevin an email to see what's up, thanks for the tip.
Rgds
#29
ZC consists of a solid abradable material lining the compressor housing. The compressor blade cuts into it as it spins for the first time and creates a perfect clearance between the wheel and housing. Custom fit, like hand in glove. The less air slips through the space between the wheel and housing, the more it is used to spin the wheel.
#30
Wow, pretty cool, but doesn't that cut material have to go somewhere. I don't know, like into the ENGINE? Jeez, once the bearings wear wouldn't more of it cut? Compressor wheels are pretty thin alloy/Al too, isn't there the chance that they will bind or get damaged? Maybe I'm missing something here...