Modified OEM Muffler 996TT
#46
Just superb.....it works. I believe it. This supports my theory in that this is just a cheap muffler bypass. The limit now is the cat. If the 400 cell cats could be cheaply changed to better cats......this would be quite a good mod. (edits to reflect no actual loss at low rev....just how Wooosh had done the dyno run...artifact only....repeat, no loss at low revs.....)
No drone, nicer noice.....no real losses.
Thank you Wooosh! Nice, nice, nice posts/job. We all owe you one on this one. Now if it were cheap to change out just the cat......
JB
No drone, nicer noice.....no real losses.
Thank you Wooosh! Nice, nice, nice posts/job. We all owe you one on this one. Now if it were cheap to change out just the cat......
JB
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-16-2007 at 11:21 PM.
#47
Thats good news for sure.
I'm gonna have Bill and Scott drill my holes out to 1 3\4 when I get off my crutches.
I had the car chipped last week and the holes didn't throw any CEL's
pm me if you're in Orange County and need the phone # to get this done.
tw
I'm gonna have Bill and Scott drill my holes out to 1 3\4 when I get off my crutches.
I had the car chipped last week and the holes didn't throw any CEL's
pm me if you're in Orange County and need the phone # to get this done.
tw
#48
Actually there was not a loss at low RPM, in run #8 I just stepped on the gas around 2200 rpm instead of 2500 rpm. I was just making sure that by getting on it a little earler that I had not passed the torque peak. In either case the torque peak was still at around 4000 RPM. As ou can see from the chart there was no reading between 2200-2500 for the other runs. Once it is floored is where it matters, part throttle readings on a Dynojet mean nothing. The stock cats both still in place and the turbos themselves help create plenty of backpressure to build boost.
#49
So, we need a mod name for this. I propose we call it the T (TT-Tommy)-J(jcb-memphis)-W(wooosh) mod....TJW mod.
Hope that is ok with everyone, so if it goes in one's sig as such, we'll all know.
An aftermarket exhaust will be needed to raise the peak, and if a good one, will be better...but for the dollars, this cannot be ignored. I cannot wait to hear how Wooosh's car does on the road. The curves show a lot of real-world power was added in the middle of the rev band.
I was just hoping for no loss in power. This is a suprisingly good result IMHO.
Now I have more money to spend on other mods like wings, armrests, bike racks, wheels, tires, computers, steering wheels......so I don't want the sponsors to get mad. I plan to spend the same money.....
From Wooosh:
My estimate from these charts are about 10-15 more HP between 3500-5500 and between 20-30 ft lbs in the same RPM range.
This is above the UMW base software numbers mind you, not above stock...., so about 459 HP and 459 ft lbs to the wheels.
Hey, my guess was pretty close. Thank you to everyone on this board for ideas and support.
Never one to sit still:
Does anyone know how to put 100 cell or 200 cell cats into the stock system in place of the main (first) stock cat? One can get them from a number of places...does anyone know the exact size/dimension of the stock cat? If another 500 dollars, no big deal.....
JB
Hope that is ok with everyone, so if it goes in one's sig as such, we'll all know.
An aftermarket exhaust will be needed to raise the peak, and if a good one, will be better...but for the dollars, this cannot be ignored. I cannot wait to hear how Wooosh's car does on the road. The curves show a lot of real-world power was added in the middle of the rev band.
I was just hoping for no loss in power. This is a suprisingly good result IMHO.
Now I have more money to spend on other mods like wings, armrests, bike racks, wheels, tires, computers, steering wheels......so I don't want the sponsors to get mad. I plan to spend the same money.....
From Wooosh:
My estimate from these charts are about 10-15 more HP between 3500-5500 and between 20-30 ft lbs in the same RPM range.
This is above the UMW base software numbers mind you, not above stock...., so about 459 HP and 459 ft lbs to the wheels.
Hey, my guess was pretty close. Thank you to everyone on this board for ideas and support.
Never one to sit still:
Does anyone know how to put 100 cell or 200 cell cats into the stock system in place of the main (first) stock cat? One can get them from a number of places...does anyone know the exact size/dimension of the stock cat? If another 500 dollars, no big deal.....
JB
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-17-2007 at 12:50 AM.
#52
In general on the Dynojet they recommend about a 15% driveline loss for "normal cars" meaning front engined, with a driveshaft. I doubt that the 996TT is 17% driveline loss in 2WD mode. Remember I dynoed on the Dynojet with the front driveshaft disconnected. I would guess closer to 13% or 459/.87=527 HP approx. but it is all still a guess on flywheel hp. What really matters is how it feels and sounds on the street. For our low HP cars (in comparison to this this group of owners on this forum) it sure feels a lot better and sounds a lot better than stock.
Looking forward to more mods in the future, want to keep up with the big boys someday....and that will require a complete real high flow exhaust, just a matter of time and $$$
Looking forward to more mods in the future, want to keep up with the big boys someday....and that will require a complete real high flow exhaust, just a matter of time and $$$
#53
I hear you....13%. The UMW software is amazing....
My dream is an EP Stage II exhaust.....saving, slowly saving. Slowly saving. Slowly.
(If anyone has one cheap...PM me...I have about half of what some may think is fair for a used one... .... ... .......the rest of the guys saving up too won't mind too much ;-) )
:-)
JB
My dream is an EP Stage II exhaust.....saving, slowly saving. Slowly saving. Slowly.
(If anyone has one cheap...PM me...I have about half of what some may think is fair for a used one... .... ... .......the rest of the guys saving up too won't mind too much ;-) )
:-)
JB
Originally Posted by wooosh
In general on the Dynojet they recommend about a 15% driveline loss for "normal cars" meaning front engined, with a driveshaft. I doubt that the 996TT is 17% driveline loss in 2WD mode. Remember I dynoed on the Dynojet with the front driveshaft disconnected. I would guess closer to 13% or 459/.87=527 HP approx. but it is all still a guess on flywheel hp. What really matters is how it feels and sounds on the street. For our low HP cars (in comparison to this this group of owners on this forum) it sure feels a lot better and sounds a lot better than stock.
Looking forward to more mods in the future, want to keep up with the big boys someday....and that will require a complete real high flow exhaust, just a matter of time and $$$
Looking forward to more mods in the future, want to keep up with the big boys someday....and that will require a complete real high flow exhaust, just a matter of time and $$$
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-17-2007 at 01:19 AM.
#54
This whole thing warms my heart. :-> Anyone can spend the big bucks to get proven results, and there is nothing wrong with that. HOWEVER, it is really neat to see someone doing it right and taking a chance by spending his money and time risking looking silly in public, but trying regardless. THANKS!!! Excellent job.
JR
JR
#55
This sounds like a good idea to me, but won't there be a bunch of metal shavings in the exhaust after you're done?
Also, will the new hole allow standing water to get in the exhaust and possibly rust it out?
Thanks,
KJ
Also, will the new hole allow standing water to get in the exhaust and possibly rust it out?
Thanks,
KJ
#56
Originally Posted by KJM3
This sounds like a good idea to me, but won't there be a bunch of metal shavings in the exhaust after you're done?
Also, will the new hole allow standing water to get in the exhaust and possibly rust it out?
Thanks,
KJ
Also, will the new hole allow standing water to get in the exhaust and possibly rust it out?
Thanks,
KJ
Neither is likely to be an issue...water can get in now....toward the middle of the car....there is hot air blowing back. The unit is stainless.
Same with metal..it is blown out...not in....and cannot get through the cat, but I could be wrong..... That being said, pursue any mod at your own risk. One will not hear it.
Anyone else feel free to correct me. I don't think anything will get into the turbo, although in theory this is possible..... I suppose it could get into the front of the turbo too somehow.....from another source....etc. Very unlikely to affect or get near the turbo(s).
If one were super paranoid, one could remove the exhaust, do the mod in a way where gravity made stuff come down, and perhaps figure out a way to blow air out of the sytem and/or vacuum it out.....in theory I suppose. Not something I am worried about. The beauty of this....10-15 minutes per side.
JB
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-17-2007 at 03:43 PM.
#57
Very, very, very unlikely that any shavings are anywhere near the turbo, having just done this mod you get a fine shavings all over yourself as you are grinding so 90% come out of the tailpipe. The rest should blow out the instant you start it. Also remember that there is a clam shell covering the exit of the Cat that diverts the air towards the center of the muffler which would help block and debris. Filings will not make it past a clam shell and two CAT cells to the Trubo.
Water cannot be a problem because if you look at the hole it is inside the tube that is already inside the muffler, and if any water did flow in it would turn towards the middle of the muffler through the regular existing tube before it would flow through the new hole. The new hole is on the side of the existing tube and at least a half inch above where water would flow even if you poured it into the tailpipe with a funnel.
Water cannot be a problem because if you look at the hole it is inside the tube that is already inside the muffler, and if any water did flow in it would turn towards the middle of the muffler through the regular existing tube before it would flow through the new hole. The new hole is on the side of the existing tube and at least a half inch above where water would flow even if you poured it into the tailpipe with a funnel.