Modified OEM Muffler 996TT
#61
I did the TJW mod today at my shop (the mechanic did the work)
Hi.
Update:
1. Sound is deeper, louder, and nicer. Think muffler bypass, no drone, but new noise from 2k - 3k...and up to 7k....nicer all over the place. Nothing that "hurts my ears" like the B&B system the prior owner put on my old 993C4 modded car. It is really nice, but "not there" if you roll the windows up.
2. Power....I fully believe Woosh's data. My holes are 2" in size.
3. In doing it, my mechanic (a very, very good indy) took 2 hours taking his time doing it "perfectly." Both holes were pre-marked and done exactly the same, no scratching of other areas, etc. He went through 3 $20 bits in the process. I will edit this later with the part numbers. It was very loud too (shop guys all had ear protection on...). Air gun is needed....IMHO....and Wooosh's...not for a home drill.
Porsche's OEM stuff is very, very well made. The weight is there because the thing will last forever...or so it seemed. That is one reason it took so long.
I can try to do another movie....I have the UMW LWFW.....fyi, so my sound will be affected by that quite a bit. The cold start is to die for...way better. I suspect those reading this forum will want to do this unless very sound adverse.....and even still, it is pretty nice. I feel like it sounds like a Porsche now if you know what I mean.....
-------------------------------------
That being said, 200 bucks for 20-30hp/25-30ft lbs and better sound...
I am very, very happy. I am no longer driving a vacuum cleaner.
It does highlight for me the need for a better exhaust and will actually drive me to get an EP...probably stage II loud now, was quiet before.... Stef, if you read this, please make a cheap, good system.....call it grade B. It will still likely be super. Or someone else, there is a need for a 1500 dollar system that is real. These cars are now 60-75k....the exhaust pricing needs to reflect that and not be 5k/unit....it is just reality IMHO (at least mine :-) ). If I had the powerball in hand....EP2L all the way. But for now, this is quite nice.
Anyway, it is great. If anyone comes to the Hershey swap meet next year, I'll be there .....
JB
Update:
1. Sound is deeper, louder, and nicer. Think muffler bypass, no drone, but new noise from 2k - 3k...and up to 7k....nicer all over the place. Nothing that "hurts my ears" like the B&B system the prior owner put on my old 993C4 modded car. It is really nice, but "not there" if you roll the windows up.
2. Power....I fully believe Woosh's data. My holes are 2" in size.
3. In doing it, my mechanic (a very, very good indy) took 2 hours taking his time doing it "perfectly." Both holes were pre-marked and done exactly the same, no scratching of other areas, etc. He went through 3 $20 bits in the process. I will edit this later with the part numbers. It was very loud too (shop guys all had ear protection on...). Air gun is needed....IMHO....and Wooosh's...not for a home drill.
Porsche's OEM stuff is very, very well made. The weight is there because the thing will last forever...or so it seemed. That is one reason it took so long.
I can try to do another movie....I have the UMW LWFW.....fyi, so my sound will be affected by that quite a bit. The cold start is to die for...way better. I suspect those reading this forum will want to do this unless very sound adverse.....and even still, it is pretty nice. I feel like it sounds like a Porsche now if you know what I mean.....
-------------------------------------
That being said, 200 bucks for 20-30hp/25-30ft lbs and better sound...
I am very, very happy. I am no longer driving a vacuum cleaner.
It does highlight for me the need for a better exhaust and will actually drive me to get an EP...probably stage II loud now, was quiet before.... Stef, if you read this, please make a cheap, good system.....call it grade B. It will still likely be super. Or someone else, there is a need for a 1500 dollar system that is real. These cars are now 60-75k....the exhaust pricing needs to reflect that and not be 5k/unit....it is just reality IMHO (at least mine :-) ). If I had the powerball in hand....EP2L all the way. But for now, this is quite nice.
Anyway, it is great. If anyone comes to the Hershey swap meet next year, I'll be there .....
JB
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-24-2007 at 11:41 PM.
#64
This is great stuff. If I read it correctly, Your mechanic literally bored a 2" hole by going straight into the right side exhaust outlet and drilling away until the metal was removed. That was it?
#66
Originally Posted by TT Tommy
That's one 2" hole on the right side and the left side. STRAIGHT in through the tailpipe. done.
tw
tw
On holes:
One per side. Use high revs on the tool.... My car's project happened to use 3 bits/tools ->YMMV. The car was up on a lift so the exhaust was at eye level...my mechanic felt this made it a lot easier. He had padded gloves (vibration is pretty strong he said, eye protection, and ear protection). The other guys in his shop (he is the owner) used ear protection during the whole thing....about 6 bays if that gives you any sense of the noise....it was intense.
I am very happy....and have a car with more power.....I feel the turbos come on sooner (a lot less lag). I hear them more. And at higher RPM, an absolutely delicious sound is now made that was not there before. I finally like it more than my former 3.8L 993 in terms of engine sound.
Best of luck
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-25-2007 at 08:58 AM.
#68
Originally Posted by Silver_911
Thanks to everyone who contributed. Ideas like this should help drive down the cost of expensive exhausts .... 75%-80% of the gain for 25% the cost.
tw
#70
The TJW mod 2" sound video and photo post
Here is the video of driving down the road. Car is warmed up at the time of the start from a recent drive. Not sure if that matters.
I kill the music about 1 minute into things...sorry. Focus comes at 10 seconds. Video quality made poor on purpose to allow CD quality audio in the size constraints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO5wH_dyHAk
I have a start up video, but I am in it and I don't really want my fun face on youtube forever......see TT_Tommy's start up ...mine is the same with slightly more deep tones probably due to the 2" hole. He was at 1" in the initial video. I suspect 2" gives more 2200rpm deep tone...almost resonance, but not at all annoying to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDZjho5uo_w
TT_Tommy's start-up and running video. He made this and sent it to me a long time ago now (at the start of the TJW project if you will):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZngXA7ibKN8
Stock exhaust with the LWFW sitting in my garage video from a rennlist discussion:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aaj72XUPLgA
Now for pictures:
Left pipe is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3164.jpg
Right pipe is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3160.jpg
Lousy image of the tools after the job (all dulled) is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3165.jpg
On the tools, label is MSC Industrial Supply Company with three models:
SL-1C BUR 6" SHK
SC-...
SA-...
Please let me know what you think. I like it. 2" does make it just about a muffler bypass....drone is just not there....it almost is, but doesn't find a place to stand somehow.
I kill the music about 1 minute into things...sorry. Focus comes at 10 seconds. Video quality made poor on purpose to allow CD quality audio in the size constraints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO5wH_dyHAk
I have a start up video, but I am in it and I don't really want my fun face on youtube forever......see TT_Tommy's start up ...mine is the same with slightly more deep tones probably due to the 2" hole. He was at 1" in the initial video. I suspect 2" gives more 2200rpm deep tone...almost resonance, but not at all annoying to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDZjho5uo_w
TT_Tommy's start-up and running video. He made this and sent it to me a long time ago now (at the start of the TJW project if you will):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZngXA7ibKN8
Stock exhaust with the LWFW sitting in my garage video from a rennlist discussion:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aaj72XUPLgA
Now for pictures:
Left pipe is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3164.jpg
Right pipe is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3160.jpg
Lousy image of the tools after the job (all dulled) is http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...s/IMG_3165.jpg
On the tools, label is MSC Industrial Supply Company with three models:
SL-1C BUR 6" SHK
SC-...
SA-...
Please let me know what you think. I like it. 2" does make it just about a muffler bypass....drone is just not there....it almost is, but doesn't find a place to stand somehow.
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 07-26-2007 at 04:47 PM.
#71
3 days in and thoughts
Stable at 3 days. No weird things, CEL's, etc.
Just an fyi to all. If I loaf, it can be a little loud at 1400....in the wrong gear....but this is not an issue I see (and loud does not mean drone...stock was loud in this same place too).
Just an fyi to all. If I loaf, it can be a little loud at 1400....in the wrong gear....but this is not an issue I see (and loud does not mean drone...stock was loud in this same place too).
#72
Well guys, I was over at Rennlist and read jcb-memphis's comments regarding this modification, and I thought about some tools that I use all the time, so here is what I did.
I went over to Lowes and picked up a #9 Unibit and a 12" Speedbor Extension. These items fit together and then you chuck 'em up in the drill.
The heavy diameter of the Speedbor Extension allows you to drill thru the exhaust pipe with the Unibit without flexing the bit or extension.
Parts:
Finished work took about an hour to go buy $60.00 worth of tools and 10-minutes to drill the holes.
Passenger side 1" diameter hole. NOTE: Be very carefull on this side because you can drill too far and pass thru the entire exhaust pipe.
Driver's side crappy photo...
My obeservations at this point are that the car idles smoother and is especially noticiblly smoother from within the cab. The sound with the 1" diameter holes is louder than stock, but in a good way. IMHO, the stock exhaust sounds plugged up...and drones too much at idle.
At any rate, I realize I am late to the game here, but thanks to all for pointing out the mod. I'm happy and the car sounds *****en to this old man who does not like overly loud cars.
I went over to Lowes and picked up a #9 Unibit and a 12" Speedbor Extension. These items fit together and then you chuck 'em up in the drill.
The heavy diameter of the Speedbor Extension allows you to drill thru the exhaust pipe with the Unibit without flexing the bit or extension.
Parts:
Finished work took about an hour to go buy $60.00 worth of tools and 10-minutes to drill the holes.
Passenger side 1" diameter hole. NOTE: Be very carefull on this side because you can drill too far and pass thru the entire exhaust pipe.
Driver's side crappy photo...
My obeservations at this point are that the car idles smoother and is especially noticiblly smoother from within the cab. The sound with the 1" diameter holes is louder than stock, but in a good way. IMHO, the stock exhaust sounds plugged up...and drones too much at idle.
At any rate, I realize I am late to the game here, but thanks to all for pointing out the mod. I'm happy and the car sounds *****en to this old man who does not like overly loud cars.
#73
This is a great advance as clearly this can be done on the cheap at home. Now, to open it up to 2" "may" need the airgun, but who knows. Had I known this, I might have saved a few bucks....
BTW, I am taking the money I would have spent on an exhaust, spending it on tires and other things (tips, wheels, tires bought in the last week). Perhaps a wing. So, to the sponsors, I am spending the cash. And, I still plan to get an Europipe Stage 2 Loud when I have the funds and no need to use them on other issues of life.......1.5k it would be a fast sale. 5k....it is just a bit high. These cars are now 60k cars, not 130k cars....the prices need to move with the market....just my 2c. Clearly, the person who comes up with the $1,500 dollar exhaust that actually works well will win the war. If the fabspeed gen 3 was this price, they would have it....IMHO. If Stef could make things cheaper, he would have it. Many of us would give up a few % in the CAT's to get quality overall......especially if the cat were made to be upgradeable.
So, a cheap EP with 85% of the top line performance for $1500 with cats to be upgraded when allowed at about 500 to 1000 per cat to make it the top of the line unit.....and it would own the market.
In the meantime, the TJW mod is great.
JB
BTW, I am taking the money I would have spent on an exhaust, spending it on tires and other things (tips, wheels, tires bought in the last week). Perhaps a wing. So, to the sponsors, I am spending the cash. And, I still plan to get an Europipe Stage 2 Loud when I have the funds and no need to use them on other issues of life.......1.5k it would be a fast sale. 5k....it is just a bit high. These cars are now 60k cars, not 130k cars....the prices need to move with the market....just my 2c. Clearly, the person who comes up with the $1,500 dollar exhaust that actually works well will win the war. If the fabspeed gen 3 was this price, they would have it....IMHO. If Stef could make things cheaper, he would have it. Many of us would give up a few % in the CAT's to get quality overall......especially if the cat were made to be upgradeable.
So, a cheap EP with 85% of the top line performance for $1500 with cats to be upgraded when allowed at about 500 to 1000 per cat to make it the top of the line unit.....and it would own the market.
In the meantime, the TJW mod is great.
JB
Originally Posted by drh
Well guys, I was over at Rennlist and read jcb-memphis's comments regarding this modification, and I thought about some tools that I use all the time, so here is what I did.
I went over to Lowes and picked up a #9 Unibit and a 12" Speedbor Extension. These items fit together and then you chuck 'em up in the drill.
The heavy diameter of the Speedbor Extension allows you to drill thru the exhaust pipe with the Unibit without flexing the bit or extension.
Parts:
Finished work took about an hour to go buy $60.00 worth of tools and 10-minutes to drill the holes.
Passenger side 1" diameter hole. NOTE: Be very carefull on this side because you can drill too far and pass thru the entire exhaust pipe.
Driver's side crappy photo...
My obeservations at this point are that the car idles smoother and is especially noticiblly smoother from within the cab. The sound with the 1" diameter holes is louder than stock, but in a good way. IMHO, the stock exhaust sounds plugged up...and drones too much at idle.
At any rate, I realize I am late to the game here, but thanks to all for pointing out the mod. I'm happy and the car sounds *****en to this old man who does not like overly loud cars.
I went over to Lowes and picked up a #9 Unibit and a 12" Speedbor Extension. These items fit together and then you chuck 'em up in the drill.
The heavy diameter of the Speedbor Extension allows you to drill thru the exhaust pipe with the Unibit without flexing the bit or extension.
Parts:
Finished work took about an hour to go buy $60.00 worth of tools and 10-minutes to drill the holes.
Passenger side 1" diameter hole. NOTE: Be very carefull on this side because you can drill too far and pass thru the entire exhaust pipe.
Driver's side crappy photo...
My obeservations at this point are that the car idles smoother and is especially noticiblly smoother from within the cab. The sound with the 1" diameter holes is louder than stock, but in a good way. IMHO, the stock exhaust sounds plugged up...and drones too much at idle.
At any rate, I realize I am late to the game here, but thanks to all for pointing out the mod. I'm happy and the car sounds *****en to this old man who does not like overly loud cars.
#74
Larger Unibit
I found this mod very interesting. I am planning to do this in the near future.
FYI, I found a larger unibit. The largest step is 1-3/8 inch dia. I requires a 3/4 inch hole to start with... Part Number 15221 by Irwin (Unibit)
I am having problem attaching a pdf to this post???
FYI, I found a larger unibit. The largest step is 1-3/8 inch dia. I requires a 3/4 inch hole to start with... Part Number 15221 by Irwin (Unibit)
I am having problem attaching a pdf to this post???