Which oil provides the best protection? You might be surprised to find out...
#76
I have seen mechanics use a few other oils at the dealership other then
Mobil 1. I was surprised.... but apparently there are other oils on the approval list.
markski
Mobil 1. I was surprised.... but apparently there are other oils on the approval list.
markski
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#77
Originally Posted by MARKSKI
I have seen mechanics use a few other oils at the dealership other then
Mobil 1. I was surprised.... but apparently there are other oils on the approval list.
markski
Mobil 1. I was surprised.... but apparently there are other oils on the approval list.
markski
#79
I have seen another test a while back that showed may differing results for the mobil one oils. Some viscosities did very poorly. I did see that the 0w40 was rated very highly though. Was the test mentioned earlier on this viscosity or not? I agree with Joe also that there are MANY variables that determine what a "goog" oil is. I do think there are other great oils out there but I would not fret it if I were only running 0w40 mobil one.
#80
FYI...I have the Feb, 2006 Porsche TSB of approved engine oils on my computer.
Along with Mobile-1...Porsche has *41* other brands of oil that are on the approved list for all vehicles but the Cayenne V6.
Along with Mobile-1...Porsche has *41* other brands of oil that are on the approved list for all vehicles but the Cayenne V6.
#82
flow flow flow
Originally Posted by Joe Weinstein
Just go with what Porsche recommends. You're going to have to
come up with a fairly big conspiracy theory to think Porsche isn't
in the best position to know the facts and make the best
recommendation... "Porsche execs get such big kickbacks from
Mobil that they don't mind a few oil-related failures in their high
profile cars"... Sure... Mobil-1 used to be good but they changed
it to take advantage of the sellers market for trans-fats...
For what's it's worth, oil consumption is not one of the critical
judgements of oil. It depends on the viscosity for one, and two
10-30 oils are usually not identical in viscosity. The spec allows
a significant range for a given designation. Viscosity is *not* good,
per se. In the main, you want *flow*, not thickness. As long as
the oil film thickness is sufficient for your motor tolerances (the finer
they are, the thinner your oil should be), thick is bad. *Pressure*
is not good, flow is good. As long as your pressure is enough to get
the circulation rate, more just means wasted energy and heat.
Oil degrades due to heat, and the bad temperature is just about
independent of the viscosity, but thicker oil heats itself more when
it's forced through a given gap than a thin one.
Who are you going to trust? You make your choice.
Joe
come up with a fairly big conspiracy theory to think Porsche isn't
in the best position to know the facts and make the best
recommendation... "Porsche execs get such big kickbacks from
Mobil that they don't mind a few oil-related failures in their high
profile cars"... Sure... Mobil-1 used to be good but they changed
it to take advantage of the sellers market for trans-fats...
For what's it's worth, oil consumption is not one of the critical
judgements of oil. It depends on the viscosity for one, and two
10-30 oils are usually not identical in viscosity. The spec allows
a significant range for a given designation. Viscosity is *not* good,
per se. In the main, you want *flow*, not thickness. As long as
the oil film thickness is sufficient for your motor tolerances (the finer
they are, the thinner your oil should be), thick is bad. *Pressure*
is not good, flow is good. As long as your pressure is enough to get
the circulation rate, more just means wasted energy and heat.
Oil degrades due to heat, and the bad temperature is just about
independent of the viscosity, but thicker oil heats itself more when
it's forced through a given gap than a thin one.
Who are you going to trust? You make your choice.
Joe
Talking 6k rpm and my car never uses oil. and I drive it hard actually abuse it a little.
#83
Originally Posted by 996TT_STEVO
I remember some time last year I had a heated discussion with 1999porsche911 regarding oils etc.
Now, what us Euro guys have is a dedicated oilman (which I also mentioned before) who recommends oils to us Porsche/Ferrari/TVR drivers (to be honest most high powered vehicles) he is an independent and will recommend individual oils such as Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul, Mobil, Castrol, Amsoil to name a few. He can be found on most Euro forums and is pretty much highly respected.
I sent him the link regarding the test and his reply was exactly the following
Steven,
Give me a couple of days and I will get back to you.
This is an American test and the test method is very amateur if I recall and does not tell the whole story or even a small part of it.
I am consulting with the Technical Gurus at Fuchs/Silkolene regarding this test as I have forgotten the problem with it in detail and want to give a detailed reply to you.
Give me some time to revert. Although the winner is not in doubt, our tests of this product do not prove it to be superior in any way to many European oils when chemically tested.
Regards
Simon
Opie Oils
I run on Motul 300v for my Turbo and find that the outcome of the Motul product very hard to believe (like Vicious mentioned) We ran their oils in Pro Motocross bikes reving out at 10/11k+ (and single cylinder I must add) plus most other teams used Motul and if it was this poor we would know about it! I'm taking this test with a pinch of salt until I hear back from my oil guy to say otherwise!
Now, what us Euro guys have is a dedicated oilman (which I also mentioned before) who recommends oils to us Porsche/Ferrari/TVR drivers (to be honest most high powered vehicles) he is an independent and will recommend individual oils such as Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul, Mobil, Castrol, Amsoil to name a few. He can be found on most Euro forums and is pretty much highly respected.
I sent him the link regarding the test and his reply was exactly the following
Steven,
Give me a couple of days and I will get back to you.
This is an American test and the test method is very amateur if I recall and does not tell the whole story or even a small part of it.
I am consulting with the Technical Gurus at Fuchs/Silkolene regarding this test as I have forgotten the problem with it in detail and want to give a detailed reply to you.
Give me some time to revert. Although the winner is not in doubt, our tests of this product do not prove it to be superior in any way to many European oils when chemically tested.
Regards
Simon
Opie Oils
I run on Motul 300v for my Turbo and find that the outcome of the Motul product very hard to believe (like Vicious mentioned) We ran their oils in Pro Motocross bikes reving out at 10/11k+ (and single cylinder I must add) plus most other teams used Motul and if it was this poor we would know about it! I'm taking this test with a pinch of salt until I hear back from my oil guy to say otherwise!
Does anyone remember that post a few Months back regarding Oils etc and that I mentioned I passed this onto a specialist in this area, well I have just had a reply back from the company as follows:
Steven,
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you but it has taken an age to get a response from the Silkolene Chemist due to holidays.
Hopefully this response was worth the wait, feel free to post it where you wish but be sure to mention those kind people at Opie Oils.
I enjoyed reading this tons!
Regards
Simon
Quote:
HTHS is important. In a high-speed lubricated situation, high temperatures and high shear are exactly what you get. What you do not get is skidding high-pressure point contacts between very hard surfaces, unless a cageless ball bearing (not common in post-1925 engines) has jammed for some reason. The 4-ball test is irrelevant and totally misleading. (The ***** do not roll. 3 are held static, and the forth is held in a chuck and spun against them, generating small flat scars on the static *****.) Hard-surface point contacts respond well to aggressive chemical anti-wear substances containing active sulphur, phosphorus or chlorine. A ‘hypoid’ gear oil with a sulphur/phosphorus EP antiwear compound which activates at relatively low temperatures gives a very good 4-ball result, so why don’t we use gear oil additive systems in engines? Because, at the temperatures reached in critical areas around the engine (e.g. top piston ring, appr. 280C) the gear type antiwear compounds are corrosive. (A fact known and understood in the automotive and lubricant industries for 60 years.) Chlorinated antiwear additives (much touted by the ‘magic additive’ scam artists) are even worse. They were excluded even from hypoid gear oils in the 1950s. But they give a wonderful 4-ball result!
The 4-ball tester is known in the UK as the ‘Shell-Seta’ apparatus, because it was developed by Shell in the 1930s, and production versions were built by the instrument firm Stanhope-Seta. However, Shell eventually disowned the test because it had no relevance to automotive lubrication. (It is still used for industrial cutting oils.)
In the early 80s Shell Germany published a set of comparative wear test results using 6 different wear test machines, including the ‘vierkugel apparat’ (4-ball apparatus.) In addition to 7 gear oils of various types and viscosities, they included two liquids not normally used as lubricants except perhaps in non-engineering applications: milk and beer! In fact, I am reliably informed by a retired Shell employee that the original lab. report also included ‘harn’ which means urine, thus proving that the robust Germanic sense of humour was alive and well. I expect the ‘bier’ helped. (Honestly, I’m not taking….). Sadly, I only have the published report with ‘milch’ and ‘bier’.
Here are some of their results. Although the 4-ball was hopeless, I have to admit it wasn’t as bad as the ‘Falex’, which identified ‘Bier’ as superior to everything, even hypoid 90. (My experience with this device does not improve upon these results. If there are any of these utterly useless gadgets still around, the sooner they go in the garbage skip the better.)
Test Sample EP Additives Falex 4-Ball FZG Gear test Timken
(1000 Newtons) (1000 Newtons) (Load Stage No.) (Newtons)
ISO 220 (SAE 90) None 2.3 1.8 6 45
Straight mineral
220 Gear Oil Sulphur/phosphorus 9 2.6 >12 250
ATF Zinc/S/phosphorus 1.2 3 11 91
220 Rolling-mill Lead/Sulphur 18 5.5 10 272
Gear oil*
Hypoid SAE 90 Sulphur/phosphorus 7 3.6 >12 136
Milk** Fat (?) 15 2.6 5 136
Beer** (??) >18 2.4 4 113
*Note 1: Very 1930s! Haven’t been available for 20 years due to lead content. Known to be corrosive even at moderate temperatures.
*Note 2: Type/brand not stated. Probably full cream and Pilsner.
The reason why the FZG gives results in line with reality is because it uses a pair of gears running in a small gearbox, so it is hardy surprising to find that it gives good results with oils that actually work well in real gearboxes. Equally, the best apparatus for testing an engine oil is an engine. (The complex series of engine tests that are involved in the API ‘S’ assessments, e.g. API SH, SJ etc., include wear measurements.)
From a competition point of view, the fact that a sample of Fuchs Silkolene Pro-R 0W/20 oil that had reached 155C in a Kawasaki GP engine during the Quatar GP was still in good shape with very low wear metal contents is far more relevant than any amount of figures from obsolete wear test kit. (….and even more relevant, the engine was OK!)
JR
Unquote:
Regards
Simon
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