jimmer,

And I see you have the LWFW...this could be a tough one to figure out. There are several possibilities.

 

Naw, it started before the LWFW. I've got that noise (LWFW), the straight-thru exhaust, the common tapping engine noise, the BOV, and the clicking thing. People don't know what to make of it... until I launch.

 

Jimmer,

Does this describe your problem:

The clicking noise is usually at very slow speed and only if the driveshasft is unloaded, which gives it some "play" and then when you give it a little gas the play in the driveline catches up and makes a metallic clack?

 

That's it exactly. It's more like a "click-clack".

 

If you ever find out what it is - please post the fix. I will do the same.

 

I bet its the slightest bit of play between your brake pads and the rear caliper..Even though you dont depress your brake pedal the pad will always drag the slightest bit upon your brake disk, which means.
When you start you hear the pads click against the bottom of the pad seating area in the caliper, and when you reverse the disc is dragging the pad that 0,01 mm of play up into the caliper upper seating area.

Im pretty sure.

Nicolas Kiesa
www.kismo.dk

 

I finally cured my on throttle-off throttle clicking/clacking sound. I decided to spend some time myself with my tech to try to diagnose the sound. We started by putting the car on a lift and turning the rear wheels while in gear and listening for the sound. The clacking sound was very predominant and he said it was normal. The CV joint was sloppy and made noise, but so did the transmission. It was hard to tell what or where it was actually coming from. I think all these parts make some noise, but something was not right with my car. I told him to replace the CV joints, even though they all make noise, even when not worn, as I am tired of hearing this and want to try some possible remedies. The CV joints are not that expensive, so I decided at 78,000 miles they must be worn anyhow, so let's start there. When we put the new ones in and turned the wheels - they new ones sounded the same. I though...well I guess that wasn't it, but when we took the car out for a test drive, I was having a hard time making the clacking sound, which previously was there all the time. I could still get a little clacking sound if I tried hard and only under certain conditions, but it was reduced by a good 60-70 percent. The new CV joints helped a lot. We then put the car back up again and looked at other items. The noise now moved from the rear of the car to just rear of the shifter and under the tunnel. My tech thought the remaining noise may be a failed rubber coupler on the front drive shaft. As we were looking at the coupler, he noticed that the bolts on the bracket that hold the front shaft support were loose and the shaft support had signs of fore-aft movement. He said, I bet that's it and proceeded to tighten these two loose bolts. On the next test drive the clacking was gone. There is still a faint hint of clacking on certain occasions, but it is like it was when the car was new. So, my clacking was from worn CV joints and a loose shaft support. The noise from the loose bolts was newer and a little different (more under the tunnel and more forward). I think they just loosened in the past few weeks, which is what prompted me to address the issue. The clacking I have had for a year and a half was caused by worn inner CV joints.