Clutch slipping, Should I do the LWFW also?
#32
Originally Posted by AG996LV
I talked to Kevin again and I am leaning toward just doing it. He says the noise it not that bad, just some people make it seem worse than it is. Now I need to check on install prices here in Vegas. Dealer quoted 22 hrs.
12 hours here.
Best.
JB
#33
Originally Posted by jcb-memphis
12 hours here.
Best.
JB
Best.
JB
#34
I think I was quoted 18 when I did mine. They discounted the labor on the clutch, though, since they already had the engine out.
Not going with GT3 RS set up was the biggest mistake I've made with my car so far. Grr.
Not going with GT3 RS set up was the biggest mistake I've made with my car so far. Grr.
#35
FYI - There is another aspect to the LWF vs. DMF to consider. When I stated my desire to run the fastest 1/4 mile times possible with my new clutch - three of the main tuners on this board (Stephen, Todd K and Todd Z) all told me that my car would be faster in the 1/4 mile with the stock DM flywheel than with the LWF. I found this hard to believe when the first tuner suggested it, so I asked another and got the same answer. Then I got a third opinion. It was only after all three tuners said the same thing that I was convinced it must be true. As explained to me, the inertia of the spinning weight at full throttle catapults the car at each shift and the LWF just doesn't have the momentum to do that - just a little more food for thought. All tuners agreed the LWF was better for road track work, but not for all out acceleration...
#36
Originally Posted by John D II
FYI - There is another aspect to the LWF vs. DMF to consider. When I stated my desire to run the fastest 1/4 mile times possible with my new clutch - three of the main tuners on this board (Stephen, Todd K and Todd Z) all told me that my car would be faster in the 1/4 mile with the stock DM flywheel than with the LWF. I found this hard to believe when the first tuner suggested it, so I asked another and got the same answer. Then I got a third opinion. It was only after all three tuners said the same thing that I was convinced it must be true. As explained to me, the inertia of the spinning weight at full throttle catapults the car at each shift and the LWF just doesn't have the momentum to do that - just a little more food for thought. All tuners agreed the LWF was better for road track work, but not for all out acceleration...
#37
Originally Posted by John D II
As explained to me, the inertia of the spinning weight at full throttle catapults the car at each shift and the LWF just doesn't have the momentum to do that - just a little more food for thought.
#38
Wross,
From a standing start the car is revved with the clutch in - this creates the spinning flywheel inertia for a stronger launch. Once underway, the momentum is always there in a "full throttle acceleration type run"...so when you shift again and let the clutch out the spinning mass helps it along in the next gear. That's how it was explained to me. Even Sam at Speed Gallery said the same thing. A fourth agreement on this...
From a standing start the car is revved with the clutch in - this creates the spinning flywheel inertia for a stronger launch. Once underway, the momentum is always there in a "full throttle acceleration type run"...so when you shift again and let the clutch out the spinning mass helps it along in the next gear. That's how it was explained to me. Even Sam at Speed Gallery said the same thing. A fourth agreement on this...
#39
A heavy flywheel does provide extra inertia during a first-gear
clutch-drop sort of start, but as that momentum is turned to
forward motion, the flywheel slows down, and as soon as the
clutch is fully engaged, payback begins. From that point in your
acceleration till redline, a light flywheel will accelerate faster.
Also, in subsequent gears, if you match your RPMs to the gear,
a light flywheel will drop it's RPMs quicker, allowing quicker upshifts
and quicker blips to raise the RPMs during down-shifts.
So, if the majority of your time is spent with the clutch engaged,
or shifting, a light flywheel is faster.
Heavy flywheels are primarily beneficial in startoffs, making it
easier to avoid stalling with too little gas, and they make the motor
a little smoother all the time because they increase the percentage
of the rotating mass that is perfectly balanced.
Joe Weinstein
clutch-drop sort of start, but as that momentum is turned to
forward motion, the flywheel slows down, and as soon as the
clutch is fully engaged, payback begins. From that point in your
acceleration till redline, a light flywheel will accelerate faster.
Also, in subsequent gears, if you match your RPMs to the gear,
a light flywheel will drop it's RPMs quicker, allowing quicker upshifts
and quicker blips to raise the RPMs during down-shifts.
So, if the majority of your time is spent with the clutch engaged,
or shifting, a light flywheel is faster.
Heavy flywheels are primarily beneficial in startoffs, making it
easier to avoid stalling with too little gas, and they make the motor
a little smoother all the time because they increase the percentage
of the rotating mass that is perfectly balanced.
Joe Weinstein
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