Upgraded Turbo HP. What should I be putting down?
#16
new or used? Do these have a stock look? Thanks.
Originally Posted by MidnighTT
If you decide to grab a pair, I have two Baileys DVs available. $150 shipped for both of them, which is about 1/2 the price of new. PM me if interested.
Jeff
Jeff
#18
Originally Posted by Fanman
I think there are a few 996 TT's running very similar setups on this board. In general I think the K24's can get up to 1.2 BAR which I think would be good for around 510+ rwhp
#21
Originally Posted by CarNerd
Isnt the drive train loss on an AWD closer to 20% though?
dyno firgures tell a story but not the whole story.
__________________
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
#22
Originally Posted by nigelquest
Can you guys please give me a rough idea of the HP at the crank and wheels for an 996tt manual with the following mods -
K24 turbos
Orton ECU tuning (1.0-1.1 bar)
AWE exhaust
BMC Sport Air Filter
converted to rear wheel drive (less drive train loss)
Also, any recommendations on what else to compliment this setup are appreciated. Thanks!
K24 turbos
Orton ECU tuning (1.0-1.1 bar)
AWE exhaust
BMC Sport Air Filter
converted to rear wheel drive (less drive train loss)
Also, any recommendations on what else to compliment this setup are appreciated. Thanks!
Your car should be somewhere close to mine as I have the same package except with PSI exhaust and no cats. But I bet you with RWD my car is faster (ask me how I know).
You are somewhere between 550 and 600 at the crank.
#23
Ok. Im asking. How do you know The conversion was already done so honestly I dont know a lot about it. Thanks!
Originally Posted by heavychevy
RWD is not good . Slows your car down. (I seem to be the only one here that thnks that but I have evidence)
But I bet you with RWD my car is faster (ask me how I know).
But I bet you with RWD my car is faster (ask me how I know).
#24
Originally Posted by CarNerd
Isnt the drive train loss on an AWD closer to 20% though?
#25
Well, I have a traqmate GPS laptimer system which I use when running track days at Road Atlanta and used it twice prior to going RWD, once while RWD. The times I ran AWD I was running plain old, worn Pirelli Pzero tires, the time RWD was with hoosiers.
Well I let the folks here at 6speed and Orton talk me into getting the RWD and from the moment I went full throttle, I knew something wasnt right, I drove back to the shop and told Neil the car felt sluggish at which point he said it was probably wheelspin. So I said okay, put the car on my trailer and left in preparation for the weekend at Road Atlanta.
Well in March of this year I ran time trials with NASA at Road Atlanta and the car was awesome, while running on the last leg of street tires I was 5th overall and other than a pro driving a 997 GT3 cup car and a former pro driving a built motor C6Z06 the other two cars were ahead of me by less than .7 sec and that was entirely due to tires. I could have gone even faster on the street tires but left the track after seeing that I went so much faster than I expected.
So I go back about a 45 days later with hoosiers and RWD expecting (from what I had heard of the RWD being more nimble, quicker, blah blah blah) to be MUCH faster than I was with the street tires. Well I went faster, but only by 2 seconds, which should have been more, much more. I went to pass a C6Z and where I would blow by in AWD, I was barely passing one on the straights and I didnt like that.
So I go home that night and look at my traqmate lap data which shows a map of the track with dots representing my track sessions and compare my March data with the most recent May data. What I saw shocked me, on the straight parts of the track, the dot representing my AWD sessions accelerated faster than the one representing my RWD data. I did acheive a better lap time but only due to the extra traction in the twisty areas. It wasnt like barely faster, it was quite a bit faster on the straights too. The worst part about the data was that with the RWD and hoosiers, I got a better exit out of the turn going into the straight and then the AWD would just walk it down on the straight, looked like two different cars, nothing DRAMATIC but more than enough to notice.
So needless to say I am back to being AWD and headed back to RA in two weeks to demolish my best time, which I am quite sure I can do. If you download traqview from traqmate.com I can send you my laps by email so you can see for yourself. If you listen to anyone else here you are getting results from butt dynos, what I have is concrete evidence to the contrary which I have yet to see someone else post some evidence that their car was faster after going RWD other than Dragsters that then put slicks or DR's on after doing so.
Well I let the folks here at 6speed and Orton talk me into getting the RWD and from the moment I went full throttle, I knew something wasnt right, I drove back to the shop and told Neil the car felt sluggish at which point he said it was probably wheelspin. So I said okay, put the car on my trailer and left in preparation for the weekend at Road Atlanta.
Well in March of this year I ran time trials with NASA at Road Atlanta and the car was awesome, while running on the last leg of street tires I was 5th overall and other than a pro driving a 997 GT3 cup car and a former pro driving a built motor C6Z06 the other two cars were ahead of me by less than .7 sec and that was entirely due to tires. I could have gone even faster on the street tires but left the track after seeing that I went so much faster than I expected.
So I go back about a 45 days later with hoosiers and RWD expecting (from what I had heard of the RWD being more nimble, quicker, blah blah blah) to be MUCH faster than I was with the street tires. Well I went faster, but only by 2 seconds, which should have been more, much more. I went to pass a C6Z and where I would blow by in AWD, I was barely passing one on the straights and I didnt like that.
So I go home that night and look at my traqmate lap data which shows a map of the track with dots representing my track sessions and compare my March data with the most recent May data. What I saw shocked me, on the straight parts of the track, the dot representing my AWD sessions accelerated faster than the one representing my RWD data. I did acheive a better lap time but only due to the extra traction in the twisty areas. It wasnt like barely faster, it was quite a bit faster on the straights too. The worst part about the data was that with the RWD and hoosiers, I got a better exit out of the turn going into the straight and then the AWD would just walk it down on the straight, looked like two different cars, nothing DRAMATIC but more than enough to notice.
So needless to say I am back to being AWD and headed back to RA in two weeks to demolish my best time, which I am quite sure I can do. If you download traqview from traqmate.com I can send you my laps by email so you can see for yourself. If you listen to anyone else here you are getting results from butt dynos, what I have is concrete evidence to the contrary which I have yet to see someone else post some evidence that their car was faster after going RWD other than Dragsters that then put slicks or DR's on after doing so.
#26
K24's + a tune and some people are saying over 600 flywheel horspepower??
You all must be on something!
525-540 flywheel horespower is my best guess.
The standard K24's do not flow a terrific amount of air.
MK
You all must be on something!
525-540 flywheel horespower is my best guess.
The standard K24's do not flow a terrific amount of air.
MK
#27
Heavy,
I have been saying forever that awd is faster for straight line acceleration. But as you note, rwd is faster for cornering and handling, which is what the track is all about. Not to mention that awd takes about 80% of the fun out of driving. The other 20% is killed by electronic nanny devices (PSM, etc).
I have been saying forever that awd is faster for straight line acceleration. But as you note, rwd is faster for cornering and handling, which is what the track is all about. Not to mention that awd takes about 80% of the fun out of driving. The other 20% is killed by electronic nanny devices (PSM, etc).
#28
Originally Posted by WOODTSTER
K24's + a tune and some people are saying over 600 flywheel horspepower??
You all must be on something!
525-540 flywheel horespower is my best guess.
The standard K24's do not flow a terrific amount of air.
MK
You all must be on something!
525-540 flywheel horespower is my best guess.
The standard K24's do not flow a terrific amount of air.
MK
Last edited by heavychevy; 07-02-2007 at 07:49 AM.
#29
Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
Heavy,
I have been saying forever that awd is faster for straight line acceleration. But as you note, rwd is faster for cornering and handling, which is what the track is all about. Not to mention that awd takes about 80% of the fun out of driving. The other 20% is killed by electronic nanny devices (PSM, etc).
I have been saying forever that awd is faster for straight line acceleration. But as you note, rwd is faster for cornering and handling, which is what the track is all about. Not to mention that awd takes about 80% of the fun out of driving. The other 20% is killed by electronic nanny devices (PSM, etc).
RWD is faster for cornering unless you get a sway bar at which point you will have the turning abilities of RWD and the acceleration of AWD(best of both worlds). I have lots of fun with AWD myself, and being a very agressive driver I probably need it to learn on. PSM off.
#30
Originally Posted by heavychevy
No actually it's true, if you do the math many are trapping 120-125 with that setup + exhaust and weighing in at 3600+ lbs (3690 for me when I trapped the 125) with driver, it would take about 600 FWHP to accomplish this (speaking for myself at least) and if you use one of those calculators for me you get 660's at the crank with 15% loss but even with 20% your'e still well over 600 at the crank.