OK, So today the SAMCO hoses arrived from AWE Tuning... I immediately began the process of getting the car in the air (Two jack stands and a floor jack) and removing the inner fenderwell bolts/ nuts. There are two nuts and 6 Torx screws holding the liner in place. You DON'T need to remove all of these to get to the hose, but it makes total access to everything else much easier. I also was replacing my cut up fender liners with the units Oak sent me (Thank you OAK!!!). Do both sides before removing the bumper cover to make it easier on yourself when removing the bumper cover!
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Next remove the two lower and one upper torx screws (or phillips screws in a couple of them) on the sides of the bumper cover (2 at the bottom side, one at the top, inside the upper fender well.) and then work your way around to the back of the lower bumper cover. Unbolt those two screws at the sides near the exhaust tip openning.
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Next remove the bumperette plugs on the underside and take a #6 allen socket and unbolt the bumperetters. DON'T scratch them...
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Next, Move to the TOP of the bumper and unbolt the cover plate from the top of the bumper (4 phillips screws) and remove it.
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Next, unbolt each rear tail light assembly (two phillips screws per side) and remove each taillight and slide them out to the REAR of the car. Disconnect the harness and lay them asside.
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Start removing the bumper by removing it from the side shelf below the fender's edge (It's flexible) and allow it to hang to the side of the innercoolers. Pick up the bumper off the rear and unhook the rear backup light/ license plate light harness and make sure to clear the bumperette mounts... I sat the cover on the back of my truck's bed cover.
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Now you can get down to the meat of the project...
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I started with the lower hoses at the turbo to intercooler... Unsnap each clasp with a small flat blade screw driver, taking note of the orientation of these... Remember, BOTH sides need to be in place (That second SNAP) in order to retain the intercooler side's hose... Take a pic of it if you need to for reference when putting it back in place... Once off, remove the hose clamp and o-ring from each hose and install them on the new hoses... Install the hoses, matching them per side (Each hose is different from every other hose in the kit, so match them up!). Once you have the oring and hose clamp on, reinstal the new hose as the old one was oriented. Make sure the hose clamp is connected properly on the inner rim of the turbo. This hose connection dislodged all the time... Search here for confirmation... Get it right, or you'll be left with a tow bill in the not so distant future!

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Next, move to the engine bay/intake... Remove each clamp and slide it onto the instake and intercooler port. Remove the hose and replace the o-ringes onto the new hoses. Instal the hoses as oriented in the engine bay. MAKE SURE they seat properly... Again, TAKE BEFORE PICS if you aren't sure of getting them seated properly. As you work the spring clamp back into place, hold the hose FIRMLY into the port of the intake or Intercooler, while manipulating (Huhu huhu, he said manipulating) the spring clamp back around the seat of the hose/pipe. Remember to make them snap TWICE!!

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Once you get them on and TUG on them to try and unseat them, if they hold, you've DONE IT!!! Now start putting everything back on... Start by placing the bumper cover around the body of the car with the sizes resting against the intercoolers. Seat the rear cover over th exhaust tips, feeding the bumperette mounts thru their holes and the upper shelf over the deck lid mount area. Reconnect the backup/license plate light plug, and reseat the sides into their stock locations.

Start reinstalling the bumperettes, the screws for the bumper cover, then the inner fenderwell covers (Thanks again OAK!!!). You're done...With the first FOUR!!!

The Fpipe install link is below and posted from Stephen's site at Imagine... My car is officially fixed, and it truly feels faster. Not sure if I had a hose failing or what, but it truly faster, and building max boost quicker than before... MUCH quicker than before!!!

Final installed pipes...
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MIke

 

I don't understand why you have removed all of that, you don't have to!

 

I could not get to the intercooler to intake clip, which is pretty important... Not sure how you would have done it, but this is how I did it... After searching here, I was lead to believe I had to remove the rear bumper cover, which was a 20 minute process...

I'm all ears if there's a better solution... Hey, you really want to help me? How the HELL do you remove the Diverter valves. That's where I think my lack of boost problem is.

Mike

 

Mike, I'm sure it is a bit figity! but I have removed clip without taking of bumper! I had a fantastic little tool as I was the one that done all the testing for the Smaco hoses!

Now your DV's can be a bit of a pain in the *** also, but can be done, especially if you have lady fingers, lol

 

Smaco hoses, lol

 

Steve, Actually I think the DV fitting at the top was cracked when someone ( won't point finders, no mirror handy) jacked up the rear using the motor jack point. When I checked this the other day, it looks as if the fitting impacts the underside of the rear area sheetmetal. I think I may have a DV valve with a cracked fitting...

Mike

 

mmmm! I know the plastic on the stock DV's are pretty brittle, i don't know if jacking car up would crack them.

 

The vacuum fitting at the top is brass and screws into the top of the valve... That valve is no longer a 90 degree bend... I'm suffering a P1249 code and only topping out at .5 bar of boost... Those are the symptoms...

Mike

 

Yip, must be!, good luck with change over mike.

 

Mike -- great info on the hose install. Thank you. Here's a link to Stephen Kaspar's DIY on DV install (but you probably don't need it): http://www.turbo911.com/showthread.php?t=287

Stevo -- could you post the shortcuts you have on the hose install, without removing the rear bumper? I need to make it as simple as possible. Thanks.

 

Alpha, This is exactly what I needed man! THanks!

Stevo, I'd appreciate the short cut as well... I know that you don't have to remove the inner fender liners or the rear taillights... But honestly man, I don't see getting those intercooler to intake hose clips in place without that bumper cover being out of the way...

I've loaded the pics up on photobucket, and will provide links this evening when I get home...got distracted with a magazine article I'm in the final stages of buttoning up.
Mike

 

Hey Mike, regarding the DV`s, I changed my coolant tank and lowered my motor and then raised it up after completed. Well I broke the little plastic Tee that connects the DV`s and had Cel p0410 and p1411 and would only boost .5. Repaired and all is good. Just check all the hoses to make sure everything is connected and no broken parts. If it is DV related you should see a secondary air code

 

Thanks Mike... I'll be checking those as well... MUCH appreciated..
Mike

 

So Mike........doesn't sound like you are done yet (and have the DV project) but when you are.........let us know generally how the fit was (hose length, contour, whatever) and any comments on seal rings & clips.
I understand SAMCO is well regarded......but looking for a general read on how perfectly these went in......when you're done and back to full boost

TIA

 

Greg, Fit and quality of the hoses was excellent. Only negative comment I can think of is that I re-used the clips from the stock hoses, and new clips/clamps would have been a nice touch. That said, all hoses fit PERFECTLY.

The Fpipe is on and DVs installed again ... just gonna have to find that while clip ontop of the motor or head 1.5 hours south to Richmond Va. to buy a few... The fit of these hoses is indeed outstanding!!!

Mike