996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Highest horsepower GT2?

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  #121  
Old 08-12-2007, 08:15 PM
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Your right Joe, I don't get it at all ....its not really accurate to call this kit a stage 3

"I'm [Kevin] pleased to announce my new tuning kit. It has been a long process thru engineering and mechanical hurdles to reach what I call the next complete tuning Stage of kits that I offer. As we dial up the boost one will naturally get more output. However it has always been my goal with my Zero Clearance turbochargers to have a ton of power under the curve. Instant boost producing massive amounts of torque early in the RPM band and HP that will continue to climb to redline.

Stage 3 is offered in two variations, it is easier for me to list the additions in the "B" kit.. Fuel and Arrow connecting rods. With this kit I have addressed some major mechanical issues such as solving the MAF problems that have plagued our cars. As a result we are providing rock stable boost control with flatline AFR fueling across the RPM band.

I have had to visit the drawing board numerous times machining new parts and testing them. One such component is the MAF and MAF housing, while many folks have left the stock unit alone and tricked the ECU with regards to Airflow, I decided to build a CNC'd MAF housing that will flow enough air, so that one would not max out the 5 volt MAF sensor. And at the same time, I searched for a new MAF sensor that would be more robust and have more capacity over the stock Porsche sensor. The Hitachi sensor has been a popular sensor from the Ford Lightning, and Audi's. However, I wanted to stay with the Bosch family of sensors. One must realize that the MAF is a critical component that has a direct impact on boost control and fueling. I have had to build and test multiple CNC housings and sensors. In this quest, I have had to also find a flow bench large enough to pack enough air thru the stock housing and CNC'd housings. I also decided to nail down the airflow/MAF/Voltage to Kg/hr calculation and ECU calibrations vs leaving all the work for the Stage 4 kit...



The next picture shows the tooling that I had to CNC to test each housing and MAF sensor. On the left one can see the final diameter and CNC'd MAF housing, on the right we have the stock diameter.





If one increases the airflow thru the carbon airbox, and into the MAF housing, one also has to increase the flow and reduce the static pressure in the ducting going to each turbocharger.



There have been many aftermarket side turbocharger inlet plenums, but I have admired the RUF plenum. I built mine with the factory look but stretched and expanded with maximum flow being critical. My piping is very large, 2.75" and I have kept this size all the way to each turbocharger compressor vs many that have stopped short and reduced and necked the diameter down for the turbochargers. As a sidenote, many of these component (90%)have been made by my hands, I have also had to tool up and actually cast these components (at great cost) The black coatings that you see is a thermal reduction or thermal dispersant coating.



One can also look at the use of the lightweight RS motor mounts. They really work good at keeping the engine planted in it's cradle. I have them instock as a kit for the 996TT cost is $469.00 set







I have CNC'd larger adapters for each turbocharger, the ducting is able to reach and extent to each compressor housing. This greatly reduces the static pressure, allowing more air to pass to the turbocharger without generating heat.





I have shown the stock rubber coupling that is fitted on our cars. Look at the diameter difference between the the coupling and turbocharger compressor housing.



It is not a secret that I like the K16 turbine platform to provide instant boost. I spend countless hours machining the stock K16 housing to manipulate the A/R of the housing and increase the volume of the housing to reduce back-pressure. When finished I can have a turbine housing that rivals a K24 and larger turbine housing. I'm pleased to announce my new turbochargers that I am now producing. I have designed and manufactured a modular turbine housing. The new housing is very similar to the K24 housing however, there is a twist. I have increased the flow to increase the exhaust speed into the K24 housing. This will help when one needs a K24 turbine wheel. However, with the new housing I have allowed more material in the casting so that I can install my modified K16 turbine wheels.





On the left is my raw casting, the center is a K24 turbine housing, the far right is my new finished/ported/flowed turbine housing. These are pre-production casting-trial housings, the production pieces have 15% nickel added to the mix, stock KKK have 9-10%.. This is done to prevent heat fractures and stress cracks.





I have taken a stock K16 turbine wheel and tried to place it into the new casting (right housings). This shows the new material in the casting to allow me to fit the smaller wheel, or any wheel that I want. The housing on the left shows how the stock K16 fit/or doesn't fit in the K24 housing. It passes all the way thru the housing. Infact, I have actually machined the opening to fit a K26 turbine wheel.. So in the end one could call this a K26.... One could even build a K26/K27. Endless combinations.





This kit with all the new hardware is based around the NEW Stage 3 turbochargers. I have had 1 1/2 years of trial testing and tweaking to get these turbochargers ready for the task. You can also see the billet wastegates mounted with special springs designed to keep the barn door wastegates from being opened thru the early midrange. The black material is the zero clearance coatings. I can run very tight tolerances between the compressor housing and high spinning compressor wheel. The end result is a very high efficient compressor stage, which will generate more boost, with less heat. With the zero clearance process, these turbochargers utilize billet backplates, special high load thrust components and a pinned 360 degree thrust plate. Each of these components need to work hand in hand with the Z/C process.



Attached is a SuperFlow data graph showing the pressure drop across the stock intake system vs my new system. This plays a important part in allowing the turbochargers to spool up instantly. If one can spool the large turbochargers quicker, boost is being developed, if boost is being built up early toque is generated. The graph show the pressure vs the air mass moving thru the intake system. There were multiple tests run in different configurations.



One mod that I seen some topend power gains was the addition of the 75mm throttle-body.



It became obvious real quick that the fuel system in these cars just aren't up to the task. Yes, we realize that we need to add larger fuel injectors, but the diameter of the fuel lines in these cars really lack. The head pressure that is created puts alot of strain on the fuel pump. It is necessary to replace all the fuel lines. With the larger side intake plenum I had to relocate the fuel filter. I have taken a picture to show you guys the diameter of the fuel lines and fittings...."

This kit has much in common with my set up.
 

Last edited by Dr_jitsu; 08-12-2007 at 08:20 PM.
  #122  
Old 08-12-2007, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
its not really accurate to call this kit a stage 3

This kit has much in common with my set up.
Sean, it is his kit so I would think he can call it what he chooses. I think there may not be as many similarities to your kit as you may think at first glance. The fact that you are hoping, by your own admission,to get 650 RWHP at 1.4bar on race gas which would be 10RWHP less than this kit produced on pump fuel at 1.3 bar would point to some significant differences. As for the race fuel setup on this kit, it had to be abandoned since it was making far too much power for the stock internals. The only run on race fuel was a low boost( 1 bar) run that produced around 670 tq but moved peak tq to around 3100 which is too much for a stock bottom end.....
 
  #123  
Old 08-12-2007, 10:54 PM
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ok lets ease off Sean a bit can we.... seriously guys its all in good fun... to each his own,, we know now there are many options out there and lets just settle these tests with 60-130's. Personally horsepower is not the best factor but after reading most of the 60-130 thread I personally feel that this may be the best method. I myself will be getting my car back shortly and can not wait to 60-130 it. And to any with over 600whp... our cars are fast man. Lets enjoy them in good fun, ok?


S
 
  #124  
Old 08-12-2007, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Highhats
ok lets ease off Sean a bit can we.... seriously guys its all in good fun... to each his own,, we know now there are many options out there and lets just settle these tests with 60-130's. Personally horsepower is not the best factor but after reading most of the 60-130 thread I personally feel that this may be the best method. I myself will be getting my car back shortly and can not wait to 60-130 it. And to any with over 600whp... our cars are fast man. Lets enjoy them in good fun, ok?


S
I kinda like 20-170 myself....
 
  #125  
Old 08-13-2007, 06:58 AM
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Suman,

I agree that the 60-130 is the best standard. Oh, and it is OK that KPG seems intent on picking on me, I don't mind at all, although it would be nice if I were allowed to defend myself. But of course he knows what will happen if I do.

KPG,

Can I borrow your drift box? I promise to get it back in a few months.
 

Last edited by Dr_jitsu; 08-13-2007 at 07:11 AM.
  #126  
Old 08-13-2007, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
Suman,

I agree that the 60-130 is the best standard. Oh, and it is OK that KPG seems intent on picking on me, I don't mind at all, although it would be nice if I were allowed to defend myself. But of course he knows what will happen if I do.

KPG,

Can I borrow your drift box? I promise to get it back in a few months.
Sean,

Whenever any of us point out a ridiculous post you made (i.e. the latest being comparing your set-up similar to UMW, you think someone is picking on you. You have a lot to learn about cars in general. There is no reason to defend yourself....Kevin was not personally attacking you....he was just stating some facts.
 
  #127  
Old 08-13-2007, 08:57 AM
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Jamie,

The philosophy of more/better fuel and breathing with smaller/faster spooling turbos (I also have k16 housings) and boost of the UMW set up and mine are similar. It is not at all ridiculous to point that out. And the use of the GT3 crank on the stage 4 is also a tack taken by proto. I really like the UMW stuff, I think its brilliant. It is not accurate or polite to repeatedly say "you don't get it."

By the way, I am sorry that you got screwed over on the 997 GT2 purchase. Hang in there, I am sure you will eventually get what you want.

At this point it is probably best for me to opt out of this thread.
 

Last edited by Dr_jitsu; 08-13-2007 at 09:04 AM.
  #128  
Old 08-13-2007, 09:04 AM
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Sean so what you have is an evoms gt640 kit(gt28/k16s) with the protomotive fueling system and tune. well **** man I say crank up the boost and get an afr gauge in there. I put down 686 rwhp with that set up. Im sure its not much different then yours. Rememeber man at this level your gonna have to start thinkin about internals... I took the plunge

S
 
  #129  
Old 08-13-2007, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
Oh, and it is OK that KPG seems intent on picking on me, I don't mind at all, although it would be nice if I were allowed to defend myself. But of course he knows what will happen if I do.
Wow. How old are you again?
 
  #130  
Old 08-13-2007, 12:25 PM
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Guys, this conversation is academic anyway. We all know that different dynos read differently. I've seen a car read 35RWHP different on 2 different Dynojets on the same day. I've also seen the same car (mine) read 130RWHP lower on a Dyno Dynamics than on a Dynojet, on the same day. We're not even taking atmospheric conditions, airflow, preload, etc. into account. So to say that somebody's cars makes more HP because the Dyno in E. Jalalabad read more than the Dyno in W. Jablip is not a fair comparison. Even the 60-130 and trapspeeds aren't 100% accurate for comparision sake, because of the differing atmospheric conditions.

The only TRUE way to compare is to put the cars on the same dyno on the same day.
 
  #131  
Old 08-13-2007, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RennTechV12
The only TRUE way to compare is to put the cars on the same dyno on the same day.
I think that's only 2nd best. The best way is to race them side-by-side.
 
  #132  
Old 08-13-2007, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Divexxtreme
I think that's only 2nd best. The best way is to race them side-by-side.
That works too!
 
  #133  
Old 08-13-2007, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Divexxtreme
I think that's only 2nd best. The best way is to race them side-by-side.
With the same driver...
 
  #134  
Old 08-13-2007, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wross996TT
With the same driver...
LOL...I wish I was that talented.
 
  #135  
Old 08-14-2007, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Divexxtreme
I think that's only 2nd best. The best way is to race them side-by-side.
Agree Completely
 


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