My car has not been running well lately. It has a hesitation and poor turbo spool-up. I thought maybe the EVOMS billet diverter valves were malfunctioning but the car is idling pretty poorly as well so I may have ruled that out. The check engine light is on and I got the following codes with a PST2 reader from my shop;


P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Lower Load Bank 1

P0300 Misfire Detection

P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Lower Load Bank 2


P0301 Misfire Cylinder 1
P0302 Misfire Cylinder 2
P0303 Misfire Cylinder 3
P0304 Misfire Cylinder 4
P0305 Misfire Cylinder 5
P0306 Misfire Cylinder 6

I do not have any PSM/ABS lights that would lead me to believe a bad MAF right away. The plugs were changed last week to no avail as well as one of the oxygen sensors. Could this be the sign of a bad MAF since all 6 cylinders are throwing a code? I had the shop clean the MAF with MAF cleaner and it's still not driving correctly. However, I have only put 2 miles on it since the MAF was cleaned so maybe it may get better. Any ideas?

TIA for your help.

Adam

 

Adam -- Sorry to hear about your car's issues. I hope you get them resolved quickly.

 

Adam-
I know it's not the answer you are hoping for but it sounds like a bad MAF. I would drive it a bit with the cleaned one in there and see if it gets any better. If it doesn't improve my best guess would be bad plugs (which you've already changed) or a bad MAF that needs replaced. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

May be multiple issues? Coil packs, plugs (what did you put in?), MAF

My manual says:

♦ Fault in ignition system
♦ Fault in injection system
♦ Flat-base tappets (valve lift fault)
♦ Mixture too rich
♦ Mixture too lean
♦ Mechanical causes:
Valve lifter chattering
This is caused by dirt in the valve lifter.
When the Check Engine MIL lights up, a chattering valve lifter may
also occur for a certain time. The DME control module registers
(sporadic) misfiring at one or more cylinders. The mixture adaptation
values are normal.
Remedy:
1 - Remove lifter bores, check for damage and blow out oil
passages.
2 - Replace all valve lifters.
3 - During the test drive, listen for valve lifter noises.
Camshaft control times adjusted
The camshaft control times have changed. No chattering noises
occur. The DME control module indicates misfiring for the entire cylinder
bank 1 or 2. The mixture adaptation values in the idle speed
range differ in bank 1 and bank 2, the mixture adaptation values in
the upper and lower load ranges are generally normal.
Remedy:
1 - Carry out raw emission measurement:
1. Reset mixture adaptation values (disconnect battery)
2. Disconnect oxygen sensors
If the difference between bank 1 and bank 2 is greater than approx.
0.8 %, then
1 - Set the camshaft control times again.
2 - Road test vehicle. The mixture adaptation values must
be normal.
VarioCam does not switch over completely
The VarioCam does not switch over completely from power to
torque valve timing.
An indication of this problem is misfiring detected by the DME control
module in the range of 1200 - 1500 rpm occurring in an entire
bank.
The mixture adaptation values are normal.
Remedy:
1 - Replace VarioCam.
2 - Road test vehicle.
Other possible fault causes
♦ worn camshafts
♦ leaking valves
♦ faulty piston rings
If opposing cylinders have misfiring, the cause could be the sensor
wheel.
If valve lift faults are suspected, perform the system test for large
lift and the system test for small lift with the Porsche System Tester

 

wross996TT:

I replaced the plugs with Bosch FR6. The old ones only had 4,000 miles on them as well. It still did not help so I doubt it was the plugs. I thought about the coilpacks as well but since I am getting misfires on both banks I find it very unlikely that both coilpacks would go bad simultaneously. I sure hope it is something simple like a MAF and not something with the variocam. That sounds quite $$$ and difficult. Can you please explain the sensor wheel? I will certainly print this out and bring to my shop. BTW, the car only has 29,000 miles on the odometer.

Again, thanks everyone for their input. Much appreciated.

Adam

 

Alpha:

Thanks for the concern. Everyone here is so helpful. I really enjoy this place and love the opportunity to share knowledge and learn. That is what makes this car so much more enjoyable as well.

Regards,
Adam

 

I put on many miles on my car wiht 3 defferent ecus and turbo kits and never blown a MAF. Things thta make u go hhhmmm.
markski

 

Here is some more (sorry for the formatting):

Work instruction Display OK If not OK
1 Check for air leaks in intake air system ⇒ Step 2. Repair intake air
system
→ End.
2 Carry out pressure loss test ⇒ Step 3. Repair engine
→ End
3 Check spark plugs.
Specified spark plugs:
Electrode gap: 1.6 mm ± 0.2 mm.
Check appearance of spark plugs
⇒ Step 4. Replace faulty spark
plug(s).
→ End
4 Check spark plug connectors Approx. 2 kΩ
⇒ Step 5
Replace faulty spark
plug connectors.
→ End
5 Check ignition coil(s) ♦ Measure resistance between Pin
1 and Pin 15
0,3 to 0,7 Ω
(at 20 °C)
⇒ Step 6.
Replace ignition
coil(s)
→ End
6 Check all connectors for secure fastening and corrosion ⇒ Step 7. Clean plug connections
and connect
securely.
→ End
7 Check fuel pressure ♦ Undo and remove the closure
cap of the fuel collection pipe
test connection (A/F 13 mm)
♦ Connect pressure gauge (special
tool P 378a) to connecting
line (special tool 9559) and connect
to test connection.
♦ Actuate fuel pump, either with
the Porsche System Tester or
via a fuel pump relay without
tester
⇒ Step 8.
♦ Nominal test value, stationary
engine
3,8 ± 0.2 bar
♦ Nominal test value, engine idling 3,3 ± 0.2 bar
⇒ Step 9
8 Check volume supply of
fuel pump.
(Fuel filter and electrical
supply OK)
♦ Relieve pressure in fuel tank by
opening tank cap.
♦ Connect Porsche System Tester
2
♦ Remove complete air filter system
♦ Detach fuel return line (A/F 17
mm) from the engine compartment
(left), taking care to hold it
fast (A/F 17 mm).
♦ Collect residual fuel
♦ Observe safety regulations
♦ Connect fuel hose (shop-made,
approx. 1.5 metres long) to the
fitting and hold in a measuring
container
♦ Actuate fuel pump with the Porsche
System Tester 2 and allow
fuel to flow into the measuring
container for 30 seconds
♦ Volume supply must be at least
850 cm3/ 30 s, i.e. after 30
seconds at least 850 cm3 of
fuel must be in the measuring
container.
→ End.
Note!
Work instruction Display OK If not OK
9 Check triggering of fuel
injectors
♦ The fuel injectors can be individually
suppressed with the
Porsche System Tester 2 in the
menu ’Drive link active’
The engine idle
speed decreases if
triggering is OK
Check triggering
⇒ Step 9a
9a B+ supply ♦ Remove connector of fuel injector
to be checked
♦ Measure voltage between valve
plug contact Pin 1 and ground
♦ Switch on the ignition.
> 11 V
⇒ Step 9b
Check wiring
according to wiring
diagram for continuity
or short circuit
→ End
9b Coil resistance of fuel
injectors
♦ Remove connector of fuel injector
to be checked
♦ Measure resistance between
the terminals of the fuel injector
11 - 13 Ω
⇒ Step 9c
9c Injection output stage
(negative supply)
♦ Connect special tool V.A.G
1315 A/1 between fuel injector
and connector
♦ Connect engine tester according
to manufacturer’s instructions.
Connect cable for
special input to special tool
♦ Start the engine.
See Figure
⇒ Step 9d
9d ♦ Perform system test for large lift → End.
Work instruction Display OK If not OK

 

Quick Update-Good news:

The car drove quite poorly during the last 3 weeks while I tried o determine the cause. I certainly did not want my shop to have to tear apart my engine and look into the cam, etc. I had my shop replace the MAF and whallaa the car drives awesome. Problem solved! I can't believe how poorly he car was driving. I'm amazed that I got used to it. I am really excited. Now to re-install UMW's stage oen file! Thanks again for all of the replies.

Adam

 

Good to hear. I have heard from many that cleaning the MAF rarely works. By chance do you recall how wide you gapped the Bosch's? Thanks

 

Glad to hear it was "just" the MAF and you got it fixed.

 

Zuma:

I'm not certain as my shop did the plugs. I will say that my plugs were changed about 4,000 miles ago and when the new ones were put in there was some serious fouling, etc. I think when the MAF started to fail, the air/fuel mixture destroyed some of the plugs. I would advise anybody who has MAF problems to look at the plugs as well to see if they need to be replaced.

BTW, thanks Alpha. Me too!

I love this car again. It wsa on my sh*t liost for awhile.

Adam