IronMan. Unlike what some people will have you believe, the stock cooling system of a 996 will not stay close to 180F even in winter. As a matter of fact, once the engine is warmed up, it is impossible to get the coolant temperature as low as 180F even if driving on the highway in sub zero conditions.

Additionally, you do not want your engine that cold as it will not run effeciently.

 

Don't listen to him. You have a problem and you need to have it fixed before you trash your engine. Nothing against 1999Porsche911 but, I think he's steering you in the wrong direction because your cooling system is failing you. You also might want to look at the oil cooler too (if your car has one for that year) and the radiators for debris blocking air.

 

So, are you disagreeing with me? You actually think your engine can maintain a coolant temperature even close to 180F? Why don't you learn what your actual temperature is before giving advice to people that is wrong. What on earth does a pressurized system have to do with making the coolant cooler?

 

well i know they didnt put a thermostat that was 180 degrees or cooler, they probable put a 190 or 200, so yeah i know that it wont run at 180, frankly i am not that concerned about the tempature, i am worried about the oil pressure, but i do think the lid is leaking because after i drove to work today and was listening to the engine when i parked after i could hear a little hiss around the coolant tank, i dont think it is cracked becasue i have no leaks, unless the crack is in the top side of the tank

so i WILL be replacing the lid....and see if it seems to stay seaked/no audible hissing


the oil pressure i will have to investigate further, really i want to hear from people running 0-40 as recomemded and their pressures at full temp when at idle, i suspect everyone is about at "1" or above....

the tempature of the oil will get hotter than the coolant if there is no pressure becase the water will boil instead of soaking up more heat....so i am thinking it is still a cooling problem depengin if the temp is measureing water temp oil temp or block temp

 

Seems Wardhog & 1999 are caught in the land of both being right as I've experienced BOTH scenarios. There's an argument for a heavier grade oil in constantly high temps (Dallas TX certainly qualifies) under long/hard driving. With 100K on the clock this argument get's a little stronger, although debates (friendly or otherwise) are easy to find for either side. Whatever you do – stay away from oil additives till you figure out the problem.
Again, with a 100K on the clock, you may find your temp and pressure gauges and sending units may be a little out of skew. These are simple (and cheap) tests and will help you determine if that be the case. The Coolant Cap is also a weak spot, and to sound like I stutter with a keyboard ... especially with a 100K on a "New Owner" Porsche.
Check with a local PCA Chapter forum for a reputable/honorable technician who will go over (and under) the car with you by his side. Bring pad and paper, listing all the things he sees that will need attention now, soon or to just keep an eye on. This will help you ready a budget for maintenance.
Hope this adds clarity - best of luck.

 

i have figured out the issue, the oil air separator went bad and was pulling so much vacuum in the crank case that it threw off the oil pressure reading......replaced the oil air separator and drive it around a couple of hrs and it stays above the "1" mark, so i am good now!

 

Yeah, I knew that too. Glad you figured that one out because that could have damaged your engine later on. Now, what about your cooling problem? Have you done anything for it?

 

i really dont think there is a cooling issue, the only reason i brought it up is because the issue only happened at full warm....