Porsche 996 TT Brakes on a C2 - Not a debate...
#33
The ABS pump is crazy expensive. My MC just failed at the track recently. They weren't sure at the time if it was the MC or the ABS pump. After hearing estimates for both I was grateful it was the MC
#34
Luckily the word is that all I need to replace is the MC. The original ABS pump in the C2 is more than fine.
So in total you need to source calipers, rotors, brake lines, MC from a C4S, and wheel carriers/hubs from a Turbo.
I've sourced the carriers/hubs and the MC and will get a total price tomorrow. I'm assuming it will be in the $1k range for everything which would put me $1,600 all in for all the parts to install the upgrade. Labor not included as I'm doing the work.
With the pace of things, I'll probably be doing all of my installation work in January. Pics and such to follow....
Cheers
Aaron
So in total you need to source calipers, rotors, brake lines, MC from a C4S, and wheel carriers/hubs from a Turbo.
I've sourced the carriers/hubs and the MC and will get a total price tomorrow. I'm assuming it will be in the $1k range for everything which would put me $1,600 all in for all the parts to install the upgrade. Labor not included as I'm doing the work.
With the pace of things, I'll probably be doing all of my installation work in January. Pics and such to follow....
Cheers
Aaron
#36
So far, verdict isn't out yet though.
Cheapest I've seen is the 993 TT fronts for around $2100 as posted before but that's only the fronts. The gain in the rears on a 996 TT setup are probably nominal but you'd be sporting reds at least.
Either way, front and rears would be cheaper than just fronts new. Although it is used, etc, etc.... loads of arguments against the idea of course.
If it works out it would be nice to put a DIY up as I've seen LOTS of people ask. At least now anyone who wants to try it will know how and costs to make it happen.
If you do it next year, you'll have an experienced hand to help at least.
A
Cheapest I've seen is the 993 TT fronts for around $2100 as posted before but that's only the fronts. The gain in the rears on a 996 TT setup are probably nominal but you'd be sporting reds at least.
Either way, front and rears would be cheaper than just fronts new. Although it is used, etc, etc.... loads of arguments against the idea of course.
If it works out it would be nice to put a DIY up as I've seen LOTS of people ask. At least now anyone who wants to try it will know how and costs to make it happen.
If you do it next year, you'll have an experienced hand to help at least.
A
#38
From my memory of seeing it before, the rotors are about 30mm larger in diameter and the pad surface is about 35% larger.
I don't know about the Brembo brakes, but some I've seen are around $5k and 6-piston. At that point its like comparing a Toyota to a Ferrari but... could be good information to put in a final write up for people to decide on options.
A
I don't know about the Brembo brakes, but some I've seen are around $5k and 6-piston. At that point its like comparing a Toyota to a Ferrari but... could be good information to put in a final write up for people to decide on options.
A
#39
I've got to ask...were you experiencing issues with your stock system not being up to the task? I track my C2 quite a bit and with upgraded brake ducts, pads and fluid I've never found myself wanting or needing more braking power?
I'm Not clear on how adding unsprung mass in the way of larger rotors and calipers is a performance upgrade if you weren't having issues with the stock system in the first place?
Andy
I'm Not clear on how adding unsprung mass in the way of larger rotors and calipers is a performance upgrade if you weren't having issues with the stock system in the first place?
Andy
#40
Not technically. I'm not 100% on the pedal feel or braking power, and I intend on doing some HP increases as well with the car so the correct order is to make sure it stops before I go down that path.
I've done new rotors, Pagid pads, and race fluids as well and it did make a difference for sure, but I still don't really like the pedal feel or braking. I also drive in a city with horrible drivers so if I'm playing with it a bit, I sometimes need to stop very fast to avoid accidents.
Before I do the swap I want to take the car to a flat surface and do some braking tests. Then I want to do the same after to see the statistical difference. I'm sure some will just be "I'm happy with my big red calipers and all the work", so I'll try to keep that out of it.
Another part of doing it now is I'm doing suspension upgrades, wheels and tires, etc, etc. If I'm going to do the brakes, now is the time as I'd like to pay the $400 once on the corner balance! Yes, doing brakes don't cause the need for an alignment, but in this case with doing wheel carriers, etc then I'd like to have one done after.
Its the age old "while I'm in there" increasing my project budget... I'm a Project Manager and I know I'm creeping my own scope. Since its the P-car improvements I'm okay with it.
Cheers
Aaron
I've done new rotors, Pagid pads, and race fluids as well and it did make a difference for sure, but I still don't really like the pedal feel or braking. I also drive in a city with horrible drivers so if I'm playing with it a bit, I sometimes need to stop very fast to avoid accidents.
Before I do the swap I want to take the car to a flat surface and do some braking tests. Then I want to do the same after to see the statistical difference. I'm sure some will just be "I'm happy with my big red calipers and all the work", so I'll try to keep that out of it.
Another part of doing it now is I'm doing suspension upgrades, wheels and tires, etc, etc. If I'm going to do the brakes, now is the time as I'd like to pay the $400 once on the corner balance! Yes, doing brakes don't cause the need for an alignment, but in this case with doing wheel carriers, etc then I'd like to have one done after.
Its the age old "while I'm in there" increasing my project budget... I'm a Project Manager and I know I'm creeping my own scope. Since its the P-car improvements I'm okay with it.
Cheers
Aaron
#42
That's enough of a reason for me. Just had to ask. I too took a perfectly fine suspension off of my car in favor of something "better".
If you do the before and after distance tests I bet they're the same as the street at lower brake temperatures the tires are still going to be your limiting factor in how quickly the car stops (the first few times).
Now do 20 stops back to back and after about 3/4 of the way through is where you're really gonna see the advantages of the Big Red's.
Happy modding.
Andy
If you do the before and after distance tests I bet they're the same as the street at lower brake temperatures the tires are still going to be your limiting factor in how quickly the car stops (the first few times).
Now do 20 stops back to back and after about 3/4 of the way through is where you're really gonna see the advantages of the Big Red's.
Happy modding.
Andy
#43
Hi Andy,
That's a good point! I'll take a more valid approach to testing the braking distances to see what improvements were actually seen.
Technically, it should be fairly good you'd think. The weight of a Turbo is higher than a C2 with the AWD, etc so the braking based on a Turbo's speed and weight on a lighter C2 should make a difference higher than seen on a Turbo car to a C2 compare.
That's the logic... the actual values will the only thing will show the truth.
Cheers
Aaron
That's a good point! I'll take a more valid approach to testing the braking distances to see what improvements were actually seen.
Technically, it should be fairly good you'd think. The weight of a Turbo is higher than a C2 with the AWD, etc so the braking based on a Turbo's speed and weight on a lighter C2 should make a difference higher than seen on a Turbo car to a C2 compare.
That's the logic... the actual values will the only thing will show the truth.
Cheers
Aaron
#44
But you're still going to measure the same car at the same weight (well you're actually adding a pound or two) with the same front tires. The stock brakes can already lock up the tires without problem so there's not really a lack of power, but after a few stops the stockers will fall short due to heat way before the bigger turbo brakes will.
The capacity to dissapate heat after multiple stops is where the bigger beauties will come in handy and really pay off.
I'd consider this for my track work down the road if it turns out successful for you. But I'd probably go the GT3 route first since there are geometry advantages to the GT3 wheel carriers for track use.
Andy
The capacity to dissapate heat after multiple stops is where the bigger beauties will come in handy and really pay off.
I'd consider this for my track work down the road if it turns out successful for you. But I'd probably go the GT3 route first since there are geometry advantages to the GT3 wheel carriers for track use.
Andy
Hi Andy,
That's a good point! I'll take a more valid approach to testing the braking distances to see what improvements were actually seen.
Technically, it should be fairly good you'd think. The weight of a Turbo is higher than a C2 with the AWD, etc so the braking based on a Turbo's speed and weight on a lighter C2 should make a difference higher than seen on a Turbo car to a C2 compare.
That's the logic... the actual values will the only thing will show the truth.
Cheers
Aaron
That's a good point! I'll take a more valid approach to testing the braking distances to see what improvements were actually seen.
Technically, it should be fairly good you'd think. The weight of a Turbo is higher than a C2 with the AWD, etc so the braking based on a Turbo's speed and weight on a lighter C2 should make a difference higher than seen on a Turbo car to a C2 compare.
That's the logic... the actual values will the only thing will show the truth.
Cheers
Aaron
#45
Plus the cool factor...
I looked into the GT3 option but people want a lot more for parts just because its from a GT3. I didn't really see much difference in the type of material or design to warrant the increased cost except for the fact that the parts are from a GT3 and more rare. I guess that answers my own question, but for my plans I decided on the Turbo idea.
I'll be sure to update as it seems there are a few people getting interested in my project.
A
I looked into the GT3 option but people want a lot more for parts just because its from a GT3. I didn't really see much difference in the type of material or design to warrant the increased cost except for the fact that the parts are from a GT3 and more rare. I guess that answers my own question, but for my plans I decided on the Turbo idea.
I'll be sure to update as it seems there are a few people getting interested in my project.
A